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Back to the Norwegian Pram.

Started the rebuild after ungluing what I had already done, and messed up. I was surprised at the success using 70% isopropyl alcohol to remove the planking. The bottom p[anks here are already glued in place with the keel plank over them. I am wetting the garboard planks and sanding them, they fit very well on the test fit, but need a little more wetting prior to gluing. The stern section kept rising up, so I glued a popsicle stick at the end of the mother board and that secured the stern, no more moving and rising.

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Before gluing the seats in I think I will put a light gray wash on them as the wood would take on a gray tint if untreated and exposed to sunlight.
Need to get drill bits for my model drill, rudder assembly done and ready for that drill bit!. How do you like my barrel mounted on two skids attached to the hull? After all, if the Royal Navy could have its' grog, why not a couple of Norwegian fishermen?

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I have been soaking planks in hot water, but I see another forum member uses his spouses' hair curler, would that be better or quicker than soaking?
 
Soaking is almost always needed, the hair curler or soldering iron, plank bender use the water to generate steam inside to soften fibers and allow planks to bend.

The secret is to use form to help form bend off ship, and then dry with heat source. Other way is to soak and clip to ship and clamp in place and allow to air dry.
 
Thank you. I have been soaking then clamping to the model and letting them dry. This is my second wooden model, doing the trio from Model Expo.
 
Best to shape or form to fit wet, then allow to dry before you try to glue. When dried in place, they hold the shape when being glued much better.

Heating with steam and then using heat to dry in place is quicker and can be done on the spot, for faster work, depends if you have equipment or time to spare.
 
tea kettle steaming?
lost all my pin vises and bits during reconstruction of the upstairs...Bah, Humbug! Time for a trip to the local hobby store!
In addition to the pin vise, there is also an Archimedes push drill pin vise. Has anyone used these? Any advantage over a standard pin vise?
Is the accuracy any better?
Ruder seems to be ok, have to flatten the wire to mushroom the ends...sort of like a rivet.

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A man with no tools, sorry for the lose of the tools.

As for the fancy drill, I have had the type I think your talking about with a small collar your move up and down to make the drill turn. OK, but hard to drill tight small holes as it would wobble a bit as you moved it up and down.
 
Bought a Zuron pin vise and bits and some glue applicators, got the mounting board finished, not glued in to it yet as more hull work and rigging has to be done,
mast stays are in.

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Hanging on to those little photoetched brass parts is troublesome.
Does superglue hold on wood?
I have lost several pieces, will have to see if Midwest can replace them.
 
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