Good morning Peter.
Yes we got about 40 inches (~1 m) in 24 hours at our house. Some higher elevations are reporting over 9 feet ( ~3 m) in the same period. It appears we are experiencing the whole winter in one day!
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BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
- Start date
- Watchers 65
Yes we got about 40 inches (~1 m) in 24 hours at our house. Some higher elevations are reporting over 9 feet ( ~3 m) in the same period. It appears we are experiencing the whole winter in one day!
Jealous of your skiing and watching the Olympics in person!!
We will shift the workshop from the basement to the RV for a month of skiing in Breckenridge CO in March. Until then I'll live vicariously through your photos and watching the skiing on TV!
Have fun and keep the tips up and bottoms down.
We will shift the workshop from the basement to the RV for a month of skiing in Breckenridge CO in March. Until then I'll live vicariously through your photos and watching the skiing on TV!
Have fun and keep the tips up and bottoms down.
You have to wait until 2034: the Olympics in Utah, Salt Lake City!
Thanks for this post, Brad. It gives me a great deja-vu!
Over 30 years ago, seven friends and I did a 2000k bike tour on our road/race cycles through Colorado, Utah and Arizona, starting in Denver. Along the way, we passed through Brenckenridge, the only place on that tour with cycle paths.
On descents in the Rockies, we passed cars with the drivers yelling out there windows, "You're G..D.... Speeding."
2 more pictures for you and the other from our yesterday tour:
Through the ‘Stone City / Broken Mountain’ again, now with a clean sky:
And a view on the Sella-Massif:
Wish you the same amount of fun, snow and weather conditions as we have.
For now we got a lot of snow, hopefully we can drive home tomorrow……
Regards, Peter
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Hi Peter,You have to wait until 2034: the Olympics in Utah, Salt Lake City!
Thanks for this post, Brad. It gives me a great deja-vu!
Over 30 years ago, seven friends and I did a 2000k bike tour on our road/race cycles through Colorado, Utah and Arizona, starting in Denver. Along the way, we passed through Brenckenridge, the only place on that tour with cycle paths.
On descents in the Rockies, we passed cars with the drivers yelling out there windows, "You're G..D.... Speeding."
2 more pictures for you and the other from our yesterday tour:
Through the ‘Stone City / Broken Mountain’ again, now with a clean sky:
View attachment 579315
And a view on the Sella-Massif:
View attachment 579316
Wish you the same amount of fun, snow and weather conditions as we have.
For now we got a lot of snow, hopefully we can drive home tomorrow……
Regards, Peter
Looking at the pictures I wouldn't go home. Just stay another week
Just move there... I agree with Maarten, such a gorgeous view and beautiful photos.
I agree with Maarten, such a gorgeous view and beautiful photos.
Hi Peter,
Looking at the pictures I wouldn't go home. Just stay another week
Thanks, Maarten and Jim. With the new snow of today, the next week would be more than perfect. But the Admirals at home ……..Just move there...
Regards, Peter
Sounds perfectThanks, Maarten and Jim. With the new snow of today, the next week would be more than perfect. But the Admirals at home ……..
Regards, Peter
.
Maybe tomorrow morning someone will call home: 'Sorry, we're snowed in.'Sounds perfect
Good morning Peter. Those blocks are tiny so kudos for adding in so much metal work. Respect.
Ahhh…..what a cool holiday. Beautiful pics. I have only skied twice, once in New Zealand where we got stuck in a snow storm and had to rescued and once at Tiffendal where I broke my coccyx while snowboarding
…..sounds like my shipbuilding .
Enjoy!
Cheers Grant
Ahhh…..what a cool holiday. Beautiful pics. I have only skied twice, once in New Zealand where we got stuck in a snow storm and had to rescued and once at Tiffendal where I broke my coccyx while snowboarding
…..sounds like my shipbuilding .Enjoy!
Cheers Grant
Thanks, Grant. It’s all in the details …….. but it is always related to the scale.
……. And I have many more, but now it’s back to models.
So that wasn't the only sport you broke something .……I have only skied twice, once in New Zealand where we got stuck in a snow storm and had to rescued and once at Tiffendal where I broke my coccyx while snowboarding
Enjoy!
Cheers Grant
Regards, Peter
Unfortunately not Peter. I think my ambitions exceeded my talent (like my shipbuildingThanks, Grant. It’s all in the details …….. but it is always related to the scale.
……. And I have many more, but now it’s back to models.
So that wasn't the only sport you broke something .……
Regards, Peter
) on too many occasions resulting in a number of broken bones over my 61 years. Cheers Grant
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I hope you had really nice holiday.
Yes it was, Christian. A perfect combination of skiing in perfect conditions and great events.
Regards, Peter
The original Balder is being readied for the new season. Good weather today to scrub the deck and all the hatches. Partly just with 'elbow steam', green soap and soda.
Also started up the 1:50 yard. Not much to show. Hopefully soon a little update.
Regards, Peter
Also started up the 1:50 yard. Not much to show. Hopefully soon a little update.
Regards, Peter
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So, what’s the program? Day trip? What?
Hi Marco.
The program is being restructured because the ownership of the Balder has just been transferred from the Museum to the Balder's own foundation.
-'Vlaggetjesdag'/Flag Day in Scheveningen on June 20th. We will likely sail there across the North Sea on June 19th.
-'Vestingdagen'/Fortress Days Hellevoetsluis from August 12th to 16th.
-'Rondje Zoet & Zout' on June 13th, July 25th, August 29th, and September 19th.
Link: --> Zoet&Zout <-- Organized by a foundation in Maassluis. You can buy tickets there, which included a transport section on the Balder. It are the routes 2 and 4. Max 12 persons.
-'Wereldhavendagen'/World Port Days on September 5th, 6th and 7th.
Regards, Peter
After installing the chainplates and deadeyes for the mizzen mast, I built this mizzen mast.
The chainplates with deadeyes also need to be installed for the main mast.
However, while setting them out and then lowering the main mast, I ran into a problem. I'll try to explain it step by step.
The Amsterdam restoration book neatly describes on page 54 that these were installed in a special way on the Balder:
"A mistake was initially made when installing the new rigging fittings. The mast socket was tilted about two degrees to port because the mast was lowered during fishing and had to be positioned next to the mizzen mast. Because the standing rigging was positioned as perpendicular as possible to the mast socket to ensure uninterrupted lowering and raising of the mast, the fittings were positioned perpendicular to the sides of the mast socket. Therefore, the starboard fittings were positioned about 10 centimeters aft of the port fittings. Initially, the port and starboard sides were made the same; this error was later corrected."
There was a drawing in the archive from which I extracted this section:
The blue line points between the two forward chainplates. The line is rotated about 1 degree clockwise and both chainplates are just covered by the aft side of the mast.
On the Balder, the forward shrouds are positioned just aft of the mast:
The arrow points to the barely visible port deadeye. So, the forward shrouds are just behind the mast.
The letter A indicates the location where the forward shroud will hinge with the hook of the lower deadeye when the mast is lowered.
I've placed two test lines on my model to determine the position of the two forward shrouds.
Behind the mast is the box that closes the 'kossing'. Behind the mast, I've placed a batten perpendicular to the 'kossing'. The starboard side is therefore slightly aft than the port side.
Viewed from the side:
When the mast is lowered, the forward shrouds hinge around the front of the batten. I've drawn a red line there, as well as the center of the aft side of the mast. Just above the bulwark, I tied a knot in the line, marking the position of the hinge hook of the lower deadeye block. I placed a piece of tape 5 mm above it to make the knot easy to find.
The hinge point of the main mast, however, lies deep within the hull. On the original Balder it's 1.75 meters below the top of the bulwark, which is the hinge point of the forward shrouds.
Initially, I had clamped both shrouds to the bulwark. I could then only tilt the mast slightly aft. The shrouds became taut and prevented further lowering.
If the mast is lowered now... the forward shrouds will need to be extended! In this case: the lanyards between the deadeye will have to be released.
On my model, the knot was pulled 17 mm from hinge point A. For the explanation in the next photo, I also projected point A onto the strip at the red line behind the mast.
With a little math, all of this can be explained:
-From point A, I drew the hinge (blue) line of the shroud rope diagonally upwards to the attachment point on the mast.
-Starting from B, vertically below A, I drew the hinged (blue) line from the pivot point of the mainmast.
-I projected point A with the green line perpendicular to the mast line as point A".
-Then the length between B and A" is (almost) equal to the distance between the hinged line behind the slat to the knot.
Conclusion:
For sure, to lower the mainmast, the lanyards of shroud ropes between the two deadeyes will have to be released.
Not just the forward ones, but the other two as well.
If I look more closely at these two old photos:
Then the shrouds are clearly forward of the lowered mast, and it looks like the two deadeyes are far apart. So, a released lanyard.
PS: On the 2nd picture you can see te 'reep' of the fishnet in front of the bow. On the 1st picture also slightly visible.
It is nice that at the various steps in the build of the model you discover more and more in the old specifications and old photos.
Today I also visited the original Balder and discussed this with some technical people. They were unaware of this because the Balder's mast was never lowered after its restoration. They found it incredibly interesting and felt even more awe for the crew who had to do all this at sea with a ship rolling and pitching.
I already knew it would be a challenge to build my model with a lowered mast. To get the rigging on the foremast in shape properly, I'll have to make it with the mast standing. Then I'll lower the mast and figure out how to release the tally strips and keep the rigging in shape. The spreader bar above the uppermost deadeyes should be helpful.
Then the rigging at the port top should also be detachable, as both halves can be taken apart.
First, I'll get to work on the chainplates. 'Eating the elephant one bite at a time' ..........
Regards, Peter
The chainplates with deadeyes also need to be installed for the main mast.
However, while setting them out and then lowering the main mast, I ran into a problem. I'll try to explain it step by step.
The Amsterdam restoration book neatly describes on page 54 that these were installed in a special way on the Balder:
"A mistake was initially made when installing the new rigging fittings. The mast socket was tilted about two degrees to port because the mast was lowered during fishing and had to be positioned next to the mizzen mast. Because the standing rigging was positioned as perpendicular as possible to the mast socket to ensure uninterrupted lowering and raising of the mast, the fittings were positioned perpendicular to the sides of the mast socket. Therefore, the starboard fittings were positioned about 10 centimeters aft of the port fittings. Initially, the port and starboard sides were made the same; this error was later corrected."
There was a drawing in the archive from which I extracted this section:
The blue line points between the two forward chainplates. The line is rotated about 1 degree clockwise and both chainplates are just covered by the aft side of the mast.
On the Balder, the forward shrouds are positioned just aft of the mast:
The arrow points to the barely visible port deadeye. So, the forward shrouds are just behind the mast.
The letter A indicates the location where the forward shroud will hinge with the hook of the lower deadeye when the mast is lowered.
I've placed two test lines on my model to determine the position of the two forward shrouds.
Behind the mast is the box that closes the 'kossing'. Behind the mast, I've placed a batten perpendicular to the 'kossing'. The starboard side is therefore slightly aft than the port side.
Viewed from the side:
When the mast is lowered, the forward shrouds hinge around the front of the batten. I've drawn a red line there, as well as the center of the aft side of the mast. Just above the bulwark, I tied a knot in the line, marking the position of the hinge hook of the lower deadeye block. I placed a piece of tape 5 mm above it to make the knot easy to find.
The hinge point of the main mast, however, lies deep within the hull. On the original Balder it's 1.75 meters below the top of the bulwark, which is the hinge point of the forward shrouds.
Initially, I had clamped both shrouds to the bulwark. I could then only tilt the mast slightly aft. The shrouds became taut and prevented further lowering.
If the mast is lowered now... the forward shrouds will need to be extended! In this case: the lanyards between the deadeye will have to be released.
On my model, the knot was pulled 17 mm from hinge point A. For the explanation in the next photo, I also projected point A onto the strip at the red line behind the mast.
With a little math, all of this can be explained:
-From point A, I drew the hinge (blue) line of the shroud rope diagonally upwards to the attachment point on the mast.
-Starting from B, vertically below A, I drew the hinged (blue) line from the pivot point of the mainmast.
-I projected point A with the green line perpendicular to the mast line as point A".
-Then the length between B and A" is (almost) equal to the distance between the hinged line behind the slat to the knot.
Conclusion:
For sure, to lower the mainmast, the lanyards of shroud ropes between the two deadeyes will have to be released.
Not just the forward ones, but the other two as well.
If I look more closely at these two old photos:
Then the shrouds are clearly forward of the lowered mast, and it looks like the two deadeyes are far apart. So, a released lanyard.
PS: On the 2nd picture you can see te 'reep' of the fishnet in front of the bow. On the 1st picture also slightly visible.
It is nice that at the various steps in the build of the model you discover more and more in the old specifications and old photos.
Today I also visited the original Balder and discussed this with some technical people. They were unaware of this because the Balder's mast was never lowered after its restoration. They found it incredibly interesting and felt even more awe for the crew who had to do all this at sea with a ship rolling and pitching.
I already knew it would be a challenge to build my model with a lowered mast. To get the rigging on the foremast in shape properly, I'll have to make it with the mast standing. Then I'll lower the mast and figure out how to release the tally strips and keep the rigging in shape. The spreader bar above the uppermost deadeyes should be helpful.
Then the rigging at the port top should also be detachable, as both halves can be taken apart.
First, I'll get to work on the chainplates. 'Eating the elephant one bite at a time' ..........
Regards, Peter
Brilliant analysis, Peter. I love how a model has informed the operation on the real ship. The new guy on the crew has carried his own weight this time!After installing the chainplates and deadeyes for the mizzen mast, I built this mizzen mast.
The chainplates with deadeyes also need to be installed for the main mast.
However, while setting them out and then lowering the main mast, I ran into a problem. I'll try to explain it step by step.
The Amsterdam restoration book neatly describes on page 54 that these were installed in a special way on the Balder:
"A mistake was initially made when installing the new rigging fittings. The mast socket was tilted about two degrees to port because the mast was lowered during fishing and had to be positioned next to the mizzen mast. Because the standing rigging was positioned as perpendicular as possible to the mast socket to ensure uninterrupted lowering and raising of the mast, the fittings were positioned perpendicular to the sides of the mast socket. Therefore, the starboard fittings were positioned about 10 centimeters aft of the port fittings. Initially, the port and starboard sides were made the same; this error was later corrected."
There was a drawing in the archive from which I extracted this section:
View attachment 583982
The blue line points between the two forward chainplates. The line is rotated about 1 degree clockwise and both chainplates are just covered by the aft side of the mast.
On the Balder, the forward shrouds are positioned just aft of the mast:
View attachment 583983
The arrow points to the barely visible port deadeye. So, the forward shrouds are just behind the mast.
The letter A indicates the location where the forward shroud will hinge with the hook of the lower deadeye when the mast is lowered.
I've placed two test lines on my model to determine the position of the two forward shrouds.
View attachment 583984
Behind the mast is the box that closes the 'kossing'. Behind the mast, I've placed a batten perpendicular to the 'kossing'. The starboard side is therefore slightly aft than the port side.
Viewed from the side:
View attachment 583985
When the mast is lowered, the forward shrouds hinge around the front of the batten. I've drawn a red line there, as well as the center of the aft side of the mast. Just above the bulwark, I tied a knot in the line, marking the position of the hinge hook of the lower deadeye block. I placed a piece of tape 5 mm above it to make the knot easy to find.
The hinge point of the main mast, however, lies deep within the hull. On the original Balder it's 1.75 meters below the top of the bulwark, which is the hinge point of the forward shrouds.
View attachment 583986
Initially, I had clamped both shrouds to the bulwark. I could then only tilt the mast slightly aft. The shrouds became taut and prevented further lowering.
If the mast is lowered now... the forward shrouds will need to be extended! In this case: the lanyards between the deadeye will have to be released.
On my model, the knot was pulled 17 mm from hinge point A. For the explanation in the next photo, I also projected point A onto the strip at the red line behind the mast.
With a little math, all of this can be explained:
View attachment 583987
-From point A, I drew the hinge (blue) line of the shroud rope diagonally upwards to the attachment point on the mast.
-Starting from B, vertically below A, I drew the hinged (blue) line from the pivot point of the mainmast.
-I projected point A with the green line perpendicular to the mast line as point A".
-Then the length between B and A" is (almost) equal to the distance between the hinged line behind the slat to the knot.
Conclusion:
For sure, to lower the mainmast, the lanyards of shroud ropes between the two deadeyes will have to be released.
Not just the forward ones, but the other two as well.
If I look more closely at these two old photos:
View attachment 583988
View attachment 583989
Then the shrouds are clearly forward of the lowered mast, and it looks like the two deadeyes are far apart. So, a released lanyard.
PS: On the 2nd picture you can see te 'reep' of the fishnet in front of the bow. On the 1st picture also slightly visible.
It is nice that at the various steps in the build of the model you discover more and more in the old specifications and old photos.
Today I also visited the original Balder and discussed this with some technical people. They were unaware of this because the Balder's mast was never lowered after its restoration. They found it incredibly interesting and felt even more awe for the crew who had to do all this at sea with a ship rolling and pitching.
I already knew it would be a challenge to build my model with a lowered mast. To get the rigging on the foremast in shape properly, I'll have to make it with the mast standing. Then I'll lower the mast and figure out how to release the tally strips and keep the rigging in shape. The spreader bar above the uppermost deadeyes should be helpful.
Then the rigging at the port top should also be detachable, as both halves can be taken apart.
First, I'll get to work on the chainplates. 'Eating the elephant one bite at a time' ..........
Regards, Peter
But as the official orthodontist for this build I can't help but object to the lack of transverse symmetry...
Thanks for you quick replay, Paul. Much appreciated!.
They already took me seriously when it came to building the model. I'm now definitely accepted as a full member who knows what he's talking about.
During my visits, I'd also asked them where this bollard with a sheave on the port side was used:
No one could tell me.
Just last week, I read in the old specifications that the mainsail gaff's peak halyard is located there. They fitted that rope always on a belaying pin between the shrouds of the main mast.
Another "plus one" on the list...
I'll have to check the books to see if we're dealing with the cosine or the tangent here …….
Regards, Peter
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Great technical analysis Peter sounds as if you may be promoted to the ships chief engineer.