Lifeboats ready to tie down. 
I am already not looking forward to doing these when I get there sometime in the far future.
They turned out better than I thought. I was going to paint them instead of tung oil. That way I could putty and sand. The recipient wants wood finish so I sanded the heck out of them , made some sawdust and glue putty and sanded again. Then the tung oil. It turned out okay.
I used my belt sander to taper the bowsprit. 
Made the cat block, hoisted the anchor and secured it. Almost looks like the pictures in the books. At any rate, good enough in my book. 
Both anchors are up! That was fun!
First three guns rigged. One day I’d like to use blocks. Maybe next model. 
Merry Christmas, everyone!
Guns and gun ports rigged. I had to try two different methods foythe ports before I found one I liked. 
I haven’t seen much on stropping deadeyes and attaching chainplates in the forum. This is a step-by-step on building them on the ZHL all-version Black Pearl. At least this is the way I did it—no promises on whether it’s the best way.
First, I got out a deadeye and a long brass eyebolt supplied in the kit.
Then, I bend the eyebolt around the deadeye, leaving enough room at the neck of the eyebolt to fit comfortably into the channel.
Then I twist the tail end of the eyebolt around its neck and cut off the excess.
Next, it’s time to cut off the chainplate and drill it to make the holes a tad bigger so my drill can go through them and into the hull. I drill the holes in the chainplate first before attaching it to the deadeye. If you do it after, the drill can catch and buckle it. Be sure to hold the chainplate down tight.
Now open the deadeye a bit and hook to the chainplate before closing it up again.
Bend the end of the chainplate to fit the hull and glue in place in the channel.
I think I’ll wait to nail the chainplate down until i rig my shrouds to make them more in line.
First, I got out a deadeye and a long brass eyebolt supplied in the kit.
Then, I bend the eyebolt around the deadeye, leaving enough room at the neck of the eyebolt to fit comfortably into the channel.
Then I twist the tail end of the eyebolt around its neck and cut off the excess.
Next, it’s time to cut off the chainplate and drill it to make the holes a tad bigger so my drill can go through them and into the hull. I drill the holes in the chainplate first before attaching it to the deadeye. If you do it after, the drill can catch and buckle it. Be sure to hold the chainplate down tight.
Now open the deadeye a bit and hook to the chainplate before closing it up again.
Bend the end of the chainplate to fit the hull and glue in place in the channel.I think I’ll wait to nail the chainplate down until i rig my shrouds to make them more in line.
Attachments
Added the supports for the channels. 
It’s time to do the mast thing. I saw in Sea Burd’s post a discussion between him and Darivs Architectvs about wooldings—wrapped rope around the mast to make it stronger. I’ve see several logs of ships sporting them. Darivs copied a page from RC Anderson’s The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast. 
I think I’ll try some wooldings.
I think I’ll try some wooldings.
WarrLight shared this one with me.
What is the purpose of this wrapping (sorry if that's a silly question - I'm new to this ship model thing)?
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Wooldings- one of the few things that were easy to do for me.
Hello Paul and anyone interested. Below is a very good reading about masts\yasds.
The Elements and Practice of Rigging And Seamanship
Quick reply, Paul--according to other sources, wooldings help give strength to various spars to include yards and masts. Otherwise, you might shiver me timbers with a strong wind, great white whale, or whatever.