Well I finally decided to do my first build log.
Normally I would just lurk in the background and watch the great work by others.
I've always been reluctant to expose my mistakes publicly, but since others have shown the courage to do so, here it goes.
I started putting the jig together.
I decided to mount it to a 3/4" piece of MDF board to keep it flat.
View attachment 202738
Since Heinrich was working with Don on frame construction techniques, I decided to work along on frame 8.
I had to modify the process slightly. I used a glue stick to attach the pieces to the paper pattern as I was gluing it up.
I did this because I have hand tremors that make it hard to accurately place the parts during glue up and clamping.
I'm not recommending this for others, but it's necessary for me.
I'm using a thick piece of flat steel and magnets to use as my base.
The first picture is the front of frame 8 post glue-up after removing the clamps but before removal from the paper backing.
The second is the back of frame 8, glued and clamped.
View attachment 202739View attachment 202740
I'm thinking of making some registering pieces for the keel slots to use during front/back glue-up.
Will post some shots of this after I give it a try.
My initial observations:
. The frames are really small (compared to my 1/36 bomb ketch!), really challenging for shaky hands.
. The laser cut isn't a perfect 90 degrees. Will need to keep that in mind as work progresses.
. Removing laser char sucks!
Tried several things with limited success (different sanding tools, mini scrapers and Dremel wire wheels).
Way too easy to mess up the part and hard to remove entirely. Suggestions are welcomed!
I found a thread by Dave Stevens on using a sandblasting air gun (air eraser) that looks promising (good excuse for another tool).
https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/air-brush.3806/#post-74805
I'm going to do a couple of frames at stem/mid-ship and stern before moving on to the keel assembly.
Thoughts on finishing:
I like to finish my wood to a 600 grit, polished looking but not shiny. Tested on some scrap, it will reduce frame thickness slightly.
This is a big difference from my scratch built x-section where you can finish your way down to the proper thickness from slightly over thick piece.
I know not everyone likes such a fine finish but I prefer it.
I use polymerized tung oil for for the frames below the decks and a beeswax/turpentine finish above deck.
The tung oil is slightly darker than the beeswax finish.
Will delay finishing till as late in the process as possible, usually in steps as the build progresses before an area becomes hard to access.
Wood glue won't work over the finish.
One last question. Any thoughts on whether gluing the frames to the jig is necessary and if so, when?
I saw some discussion on this in one of the other threads.
I'm sure Heinrich will address it when the time comes, but I'm curious.
Well enough babbling for now. Hope everyone has a healthy and happy new year!
Regards,
Dave
