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Bluenose Model Shipways 1:64 Beautiful ship

Ted Robinson said:
I have joined your build. Lookin nice and very well executed. I’m looking forward to seeing this one get built.
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Thank you Ted, Good to see you here! I remember you jumping in and doing a fantastic job with your POF Bluenose! That was some learning curve! Be forewarned that this will be an on again off agin build, as I am building this in Arizona but live mostly in Connecticut.

Rob
 
Rob444 said:
Thank you Ted, Good to see you here! I remember you jumping in and doing a fantastic job with your POF Bluenose! That was some learning curve! Be forewarned that this will be an on again off agin build, as I am building this in Arizona but live mostly in Connecticut.

Rob
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That's fine with me. You make me want to build another Bluenose. I think I could do a bang up job on the repeat project. I'm currently in my second nursing home. The VA moved me as the other place kept getting me sicker due to incompetence. In fact the feds filed elder abuse allegati on ns against their doctors.
To make matters worse they dropped my San Felipe on its bow when packing my stuff. My guess it's that they were angry.
 
My prayers have included your speedy recovery! I find you doing your work when at a nursing home remarkable. Hopefully you will soon be tinkering at your home workshop. I am currently at the sand, maybe a little wood filler, sand again stage. The hull is getting smoother and smoother but
I am sure you also had a hard time figuring out when smooth enough is smooth enough.

Rob
 
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While continuing to sand and refine the hull I decided to continue with the transom framing. There are 2, 1/16" circular pieces that go on the upper edges of the stern blocks. Unfortunately they were not included with my used kit. I made a copy of the plans and cut cut out the diagram of these pieces and copied them onto a piece of scrap. I aligned it so it would not be weakened by the flow of the grain. i cut these 2 pieces out and sanded the edges together to produce 2 identical shapes.

IMG_1842.jpeg

I then carefully notched the appropriate areas on the stern block. Since the rear of the transom is at an angle I set a small straight protractor on the back and taped it into place (any straight object would work). I then glued the pieces into place at the proper angle.

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After the glue dried I removed the supports.

IMG_1844.jpeg

I then put 2 smaller support pieces in place in a similar way. When everything was dry I coated the pieces with CA to help strengthen them.
 
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I have been thinking of just how smooth do I have to make this hull. During the planking process I was also sanding and using wood filler as I went along. The hull has become notably smoother I am using 150 grit sandpaper. As I go along, I find finer and finer areas to apply the wood filler. I put our a thread asking for advice on how others decide and I got some wonderful information fro, Brian, Bob Cleek and Roger Pellett.

I am starting with 150 grit sandpaper and plan on going up to 400. I construct my own sanding sticks using foam board that has a lot of flexibility to it. I cut a piece of foam board to the shape I desire and coat one side with rubber cement. I coat plain side of the sandpaper that I cut out also with rubber cement. You can then put the 2 together. If you want fresh or finer sandpaper the old one peels off easily and you can put a fresh piece on.

I do use sanding sealer before I put any paint or primer on. My first model dory had a problem with raised grain before I used the sanding sealer. I do use tack cloths before painting to make sure the surface is as clean as can be. I will certainly be trying Bryan's suggestion for using automotive spray putty/primer. After everything is a smooth as i can make it I will be using an airbrush to apply the paint.
 
Rob444 said:
My prayers have included your speedy recovery! I find you doing your work when at a nursing home remarkable. Hopefully you will soon be tinkering at your home workshop. I am currently at the sand, maybe a little wood filler, sand again stage. The hull is getting smoother and smoother but
I am sure you also had a hard time figuring out when smoothie enough is smooth enough.

Rob
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Thank you for your kind words
 
Daniel20 said:
Rob, don't know how I've missed your Bluenose but gad I found it. She's one of my favorites and yours is looking fantastic! Looking forward to your return in June.
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Daniel, Thank you for the kind comment. I am looking forward to being there myself! I love the shape of the ship.

Rob
 
Back again in Tucson. I have family visiting so it will be even more on and off again. I spent some time sanding the hull a bit more. I am very happy with how it looks, I have ordered the Rustolum automatic spray primer/putty. I have read reviews of this stuff and it has been very favorable. Apparently a lot of people doing 3D printing use it to eliminate the layering look of the printing. Until iy arrives I am working on other parts. I made two "tumble" pieces That are suppose to help with the transition between the stern and the transom. I got 2 Scrap pieces a little longer than the space between the stanchion and the back support.



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I ambled the pieces to fit the space.
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These were glued into place and shaped with the drum sander I have attached to my nail drill.

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You can see that not surprisingly one of the real supports was dislodged due to my clumsy hands.
 
Next up are the bulwarks, infamous scuppers and the stanchions. One thing I have not seen in other build logs are the fact that the stanchions on the foredeck are 1/16" taller then the ones on the quarterdeck. Of course I cut all the stanchions (which are made of 1/8" strip) the smaller size. These stanchions will also be painted white along with the bulwarks inner wall. You can save yourself some time and effort by pre-painting the 1/8" strip before you cut it (something i thought about only after making all the smaller stanchions.) Be that as it may, I used a "jig" which was basically a piece of tape placed on the motor box to determine the length of each cut.

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This worked out quite well.
 
I spent part of the evening thinking about what I should do next. I am by nature a pretty clumsy guy. I am thinking perhaps it would be best if I put in the decking before doing the bulwarks and stanchions. It will give me less things to potentially tear off. I will place planking on the transom first to strengthen that area, once the decking is placed, sanded and finished I will install the bulwarks.

Does this sound reasonable to others?
 
Rob444 said:
I spent part of the evening thinking about what I should do next. I am by nature a pretty clumsy guy. I am thinking perhaps it would be best if I put in the decking before doing the bulwarks and stanchions. It will give me less things to potentially tear off. I will place planking on the transom first to strengthen that area, once the decking is placed, sanded and finished I will install the bulwarks.

Does this sound reasonable to others?
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Hi Rob. At the beginning of your log you mentioned the log of the Suburban Ship Modeler. He was planking the deck after installing the bulwark and waterways. And he placed the nibbled outside plank against the waterways. That was in my build-log also part of the discussion if the decking was leveled with the waterways or the waterways on the deck planking.
I posted some pictures of the leveling on the original BN and the BN-II in -> this post <-in my log.
And if you are building the deck that way, then you can build your deck inside that waterways:
IMG_4913.jpeg
But there are also models with the waterways on the deck planking.
Therefore, it depends on quite a few variables in the construction of your model.
In your 1st post you also wrote this conclusion: “there are at least 4 different ways to do this build”. So that also applies to this specific part of your construction. This was ‘just my work around’.
Regards, Peter
 
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Peter Voogt said:
Hi Rob. At the beginning of your log you mentioned the log of the Suburban Ship Modeler. He was planking the deck after installing the bulwark and waterways. And he placed the nibbled outside plank against the waterways. That was in my build-log also part of the discussion if the decking was leveled with the waterways or the waterways on the deck planking.
I posted some pictures of the leveling on the original BN and the BN-II in -> this post <-in my log.
And if you are building the deck that way, then you can build your deck inside that waterways:
View attachment 612782
But there are also models with the waterways on the deck planking.
Therefore, it depends on quite a few variables in the construction of your model.
In your 1st post you also wrote this conclusion: “there are at least 4 different ways to do this build”. So that also applies to this specific part of your construction. This was ‘just my work around’.
Regards, Peter
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Peter,

Thank you for your input. The waterways have been installed and painted gray so that should not be an issue (I hope). My concern is disrupting the Bulwards and stanchions while installing the deck, just like I took out the transom support. I think it may be best to leave those items off until the decking is done!

Rob
 
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