Thank you so much for your kind words. It is nice to hear this from the leader of the Bluenose group!
Rob
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Rob
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2023
- Messages
- 2,066
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- 488
I have joined your build. Lookin nice and very well executed. I’m looking forward to seeing this one get built.
Thank you Ted, Good to see you here! I remember you jumping in and doing a fantastic job with your POF Bluenose! That was some learning curve! Be forewarned that this will be an on again off agin build, as I am building this in Arizona but live mostly in Connecticut.
Rob
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2023
- Messages
- 2,066
- Points
- 488
That's fine with me. You make me want to build another Bluenose. I think I could do a bang up job on the repeat project. I'm currently in my second nursing home. The VA moved me as the other place kept getting me sicker due to incompetence. In fact the feds filed elder abuse allegati on ns against their doctors.
To make matters worse they dropped my San Felipe on its bow when packing my stuff. My guess it's that they were angry.
My prayers have included your speedy recovery! I find you doing your work when at a nursing home remarkable. Hopefully you will soon be tinkering at your home workshop. I am currently at the sand, maybe a little wood filler, sand again stage. The hull is getting smoother and smoother but
I am sure you also had a hard time figuring out when smoothie enough is smooth enough.
Rob
I am sure you also had a hard time figuring out when smoothie enough is smooth enough.
Rob
While continuing to sand and refine the hull I decided to continue with the transom framing. There aer 2, 1/16" circular pieces that go on the upper edges of the stern blocks. Unfortunately they were not included with my used kit. I made a copy of the plans and cut cut out the diagram of these pieces and copied them onto a piece of scrap. I aligned it so it would not be weakened by the flow of the grain. i cut these 2 pieces out and sanded the edges together to produce 2 identical shapes.
I then carefully notched the appropriate areas on the stern block. Since the rear of the transom is at an angle I set a small straight protractor on the back and taped it into place (any straight object would work). I then glued the pieces into place at the proper angle.
After the glue dried I removed the supports.
I then put 2 smaller support pieces in place in a similar way. When everything was dry I coated the pieces with CA to help strengthen them.
I then carefully notched the appropriate areas on the stern block. Since the rear of the transom is at an angle I set a small straight protractor on the back and taped it into place (any straight object would work). I then glued the pieces into place at the proper angle.
After the glue dried I removed the supports.
I then put 2 smaller support pieces in place in a similar way. When everything was dry I coated the pieces with CA to help strengthen them.
I have been thinking of just how smooth do I have to make this hull. During the planking process I was also sanding and using wood filler as I went along. The hull has become notably smoother I am using 150 grit sandpaper. As I go along, I find finer and finer areas to apply the wood filler. I put our a thread asking for advice on how others decide and I got some wonderful information fro, Brian, Bob Cleek and Roger Pellett.
I am starting with 150 grit sandpaper and plan on going up to 400. I construct my own sanding sticks using foam board that has a lot of flexibility to it. I cut a piece of foam board to the shape I desire and coat one side with rubber cement. I coat plain side of the sandpaper that I cut out also with rubber cement. You can then put the 2 together. If you want fresh or finer sandpaper the old one peels off easily and you can put a fresh piece on.
I do use sanding sealer before I put any paint or primer on. My first model dory had a problem with raised grain before I used the sanding sealer. I do use tack cloths before painting to make sure the surface is as clean as can be. I will certainly be trying Bryan's suggestion for using automotive spray putty/primer. After everything is a smooth as i can make it I will be using an airbrush to apply the paint.
I am starting with 150 grit sandpaper and plan on going up to 400. I construct my own sanding sticks using foam board that has a lot of flexibility to it. I cut a piece of foam board to the shape I desire and coat one side with rubber cement. I coat plain side of the sandpaper that I cut out also with rubber cement. You can then put the 2 together. If you want fresh or finer sandpaper the old one peels off easily and you can put a fresh piece on.
I do use sanding sealer before I put any paint or primer on. My first model dory had a problem with raised grain before I used the sanding sealer. I do use tack cloths before painting to make sure the surface is as clean as can be. I will certainly be trying Bryan's suggestion for using automotive spray putty/primer. After everything is a smooth as i can make it I will be using an airbrush to apply the paint.
Good morning Rob. Your planking came out really good - Kudos.