Bluenose Model Shipways 1:64 Beautiful ship

[Rob444]

Very nice Rob, that deck will really pop when you apply your top finish.

Thank you. I have bought a very light maple stain that I want to try, I'll test it on some left over cut off planking. Speaking of planking have 28 left over planks for the deck. A lot of people say they have just enough, I do have a habit of using every bit of a plankI can and this is a second hand kit, it may be old and they included more planking,

 

[TexBilly]

Very nice Rob, that deck will really pop when you apply your top finish.

I agree, along with the sanding of my hull planking, getting the deck finished were huge milestones for me. Nicely done, Rob!

 

[Rob444]

Some of the decking was very uneven. I am sure that some has to do with the the way I installed the deck and some with the unevenness of the planned decking strips. I was able to level it a lot by using a chisel blade as a kind of "mini plane" to shave off the unevenness. This saved a lot of sanding time.

 

[Rob444]

While working on the decking I have also been refining thee hull by sanding it with finer grit abrasivesI am using some large "energy boards" used for manicuring. I buy these in bulk from Amazon. They are flexible and really perfect for working on curved surfaces.



The hull is really becoming much smoother. I am happy with how it is progressing.

 

[TexBilly]

Lookin' great, Rob. I sometimes use the chisel blade as a mini plane method myself, very nice!

 

[Daniel20]

She's looking fantastic Rob! It's amazing what a well-executed sanding can do for a finished look.

 

[Peter Voogt]

Some of the decking was very uneven. I am sure that some has to do with the the way I installed the deck and some with the unevenness of the planned decking strips. I was able to level it a lot by using a chisel blade as a kind of "mini plane" to shave off the unevenness. This saved a lot of sanding time.

View attachment 616623

While working on the decking I have also been refining thee hull by sanding it with finer grit abrasivesI am using some large "energy boards" used for manicuring. I buy these in bulk from Amazon. They are flexible and really perfect for working on curved surfaces.

View attachment 616624

The hull is really becoming much smoother. I am happy with how it is progressing.

View attachment 616625

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What ‘some scraping & sanding’ can do to a model. That is looking very nice Rob.
Regards, Peter

 

[Rob444]

Dan and Peter you are so right! I was feeling a bit disappointed after seeing the condition of the deck, but "planing" the wood and sanding has completely changed the look of the ship. Once I do some finer sanding I plan on putting on the bulwarks and then the infamous stanchions. I have decided to skip the scuppers, they are very small and I think not very noticeable.

 

[TexBilly]

Rob, I came to the same conclusion about the scuppers after a brief trial run. Keep up the good work!

 

[Rob444]

If you compare this picture with the one of the newly completed deck I showed previously you can see the improvement due to sanding.



I next installed the foredeck bulwarks. While i could not find the width of the board stated anywhere, by looking at the plans it says it is twice the with of the hull planking boards or 3/16 x 1/16" I fitted pieces of the 3/16 x 1/16" stock from the "step" between the foredeck and quarterdeck and glued them along the bulkhead stanchions and the top of the uppermost hull strake, The fit is not perfect but it is close. A bit of filler and some sanding should blend these in nicely.



I used bits of left over planking to help prevent the clamps from leaving pressure marks on the wood.

 

[DocTom]

Rob,
She's looking mighty fine! I'm a big fan of the flexible emery boards for sanding as well.

 

[Rob444]

I installed the 2nd row of bulwarks which is a 1/8 x 1/32" strip. Doing so i realize I have a problem. The strip is supposed to end at the level of the top of the transom. However it appears to be about a quarter of an inch below the transom level.





There are 2, 1/16" circular pieces that go on the upper edges of the stern blocks tp make the transom. What probably occurred is when I notched in the 2 pieces in I should have set them deeper into the stern blocks then I did. I will think about what to do, but I will probably lower the back of the transom by using a razor saw or a Dremel. i will let it ride for now while I prepare the deck for staining and sealing and prime the hull.

 

[Rob444]

Speaking of priming the hull, I started a thread about when is smooth enough, smooth enough and got some wonderful advice from members of SOS for how to prepare the hull of the Bluenose for painting. I was particularly intrigued by the suggestion of @Bryian who has used

Rust-Oleum 249279-2PK Automotive Filler Primer Spray​

With success. This primer is designed to fill minor imperfections and is often used by people making 3D printed parts to get rid of the layered look that those pieces often have. It is inexpensive and I am going to try it. I plan on sanding the hull with about 300 grit paper to allow the surface to have a bit of "bite" for the primer to adhere to and see how it looks.

 

[TexBilly]

Rob, for what it’s worth, my transom turned out similar in height so I think you’ll be good. And, I recall checking it against the plan and it was pretty close. Love your progress!