Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 - Cross Section - 1:32 Scale - Scratch Build by DocBlake [COMPLETED BUILD]

Is this scale big enough to install one of the working cannons talked about in other threads?

If so that would be an awesome sight to see. Even with fake mortar shells popping out.
 
I used temporary spacers to make sure the frames sat properly on the hog or rising wood. The double frames are constructed so that half the frame sits a little deeper than the rest of the frame. The frame locks in place. It can’t move once seated. I then used epoxy the glue ar the frames in place and faired the inside of the hull. The spacers above the waterline are glued in place. The hull is strong enough to remove the transverse support of the jig top for and aft. Makes it easier to work inside!


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Very clean and accurate work. Thumbsup
For me very interesting is also the unusual form of the floor timbers which were following on the top edge the round. The keel was really sitting on top of the floor timbers. In addition the very strong raiders under the bomb
This will be a great section model - very interesting especially because of the structure
 
DocBlake said:
The first part to make is the keel assembly. Jeff's plans call for this to be constructed of 4 separate parts: The hog, keel, upper false keel and lower false keel. I decided to make the hog, or rising wood, part of the keel. The keel /hog assembly, and the upper false keel are European beech, the lower false keel is ebony. There are notches cut into the hog for the various frames. I was able to do this on my Byrnes saw, but it would have been far easier with a mill. You can see the notches rising at the aft end of the keel. The last task was cutting the rabbet. The keel assembly is fixed to the build board by brass rods and is removable.


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Question from a new builder. . . how did you cut the rabbit? Angled table saw cut and then filed out or what???
Thanks for sharing what is probably a very elementary task. PT-2
 
Thanks, guys!

PT-2: cutting the rabbet on a POF cross section with no hull planking below the wales is very forgiving. The rabbit itself doesn’t have to be perfect, since no planks will be fit! A smoothly curved “V” shaped groove is what you want. I used a slitting blade on my Byrnes saw to cut a shallow groove for the straight part of the rabbet, and a steel rule to guide cutting the upward curving part with a “V” shaped chisel. Widen and deepen the “v” with a chisel, file or square of wood with sandpaper wrapped around until the look is pleasing.
 
DocBlake said:
Thanks, guys!

PT-2: cutting the rabbet on a POF cross section with no hull planking below the wales is very forgiving. The rabbit itself doesn’t have to be perfect, since no planks will be fit! A smoothly curved “V” shaped groove is what you want. I used a slitting blade on my Byrnes saw to cut a shallow groove for the straight part of the rabbet, and a steel rule to guide cutting the upward curving part with a “V” shaped chisel. Widen and deepen the “v” with a chisel, file or square of wood with sandpaper wrapped around until the look is pleasing.
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The slitting blade is one that I don't have but I can see the usefulness for a number of purposes. Hand working from there is what I was anticipating. If the rabbit is to accept planking and variable angles I don't see any way to do it than hand after a shallow starter assuming that would be on a straight line. It seems that all hand carving is needed for curves. Thanks for your explanation. PT-2 (Rich)
 
Hallo Dave,
Very good and accurate work.
Just only wondering about the locations of the bolts on the keelson, but it can be also the persepctive....
Usually the bolts are passing the keelson, through the frame floor timbers into the keel - so pressing these three elements together.
Some of your bolts are looking like the were more at the open space between two frames....
 
There are 5 floor riders that reinforce the frames under the mortar. I made six! I used swiss pear and beech for a little contrast. The riders sit on the keelson and hug the frames and then overlap the mortar pit deck clamps. The plan shows the location of the riders on the keelson. As you can see, I’ve yet to cut the outline of the top of the riders that overlap the clamp strakes.


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DocBlake said:
There are 5 floor riders that reinforce the frames under the mortar. I made six! I used swiss pear and beech for a little contrast. The riders sit on the keelson and hug the frames and then overlap the mortar pit deck clamps. The plan shows the location of the riders on the keelson. As you can see, I’ve yet to cut the outline of the top of the riders that overlap the clamp strakes.


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I greatly admire the precision of your work at this scale illustrated by the dollar bill. Possibly part of that is in the nature of the wood that you select to work with in the precise joinery. PT-2 (Rich)
 
DocBlake said:
Thanks, Rich!
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From my brief membership and scanning of various projects that you have completed or are working on, what is you familiarity with the detailed questions posed by WmRussel regarding HMS Victory's mast heights from various decks and the waterline location. These tickled my mind and I don't know if that type of actual ship data is presented in any of the kits or scratch builds. What do you know of this type of real ship information? Rich
 
Very accurate work my friend - it is looking very good.
I would wait with cutting out the notches for the clamps or thick stuff planking
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I would do it, when you have the final inner planking done, so that you can adjust the raiders according the real planking work
 
Uwek said:
Very accurate work my friend - it is looking very good.
I would wait with cutting out the notches for the clamps or thick stuff planking
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I would do it, when you have the final inner planking done, so that you can adjust the raiders according the real planking work
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I learn things every time that I have a new posting presented to me. That is a major factor in my being a fairly broad "scanner at least' of the new postings. Thank. Rich
 
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