Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 - Cross Section - 1:32 Scale - Scratch Build by DocBlake [COMPLETED BUILD]

Thanks, all!

I finished the planking in the hold, including the limber strakes, floorwaling and thick stuff. The mortar pit clamps are just sitting in place. The next task is to "dress up" the planking. I'm planning black bolts for the thick stuff and clamps and birch treenails for all the other planking. I'll also simulate a scarf in the upper mortar pit clamp.

The limber boards are just over 3 scale feet long with finger holes drilled in each end. They should be manageable by a single seaman himself.36.jpg37.jpg38.jpg39.jpg40.jpg
 
Thanks, all!

I finished the planking in the hold, including the limber strakes, floorwaling and thick stuff. The mortar pit clamps are just sitting in place. The next task is to "dress up" the planking. I'm planning black bolts for the thick stuff and clamps and birch treenails for all the other planking. I'll also simulate a scarf in the upper mortar pit clamp.

The limber boards are just over 3 scale feet long with finger holes drilled in each end. They should be manageable by a single seaman himself.View attachment 201425View attachment 201426View attachment 201427View attachment 201428View attachment 201429
The alignment of these precise parts is engaging as to how it was expedited so well. Rich
 
Thanks, Rich!

The next task was to prepare the upper mortar pit clamps for installation. These were heavy timbers that bore a lot of the brunt of the mortar's recoil force The clamps were 24" tall and 7" thick (3/4" X 7/32"). There are 5 mortises cut into the clamp to seat the mortar pit beams. For the most part, the clamps are straight. But they do curve inward fairly conspicuously over the last 3 frames or so. I needed to figure out how to bend a piece of swiss pear that was 3/4" wide X 7/32" thick. The answer was easier than I thought. I simply clamped the clamps to a piece of wood with the inwardly bending end raised up a little on a scarp of wood. Two or three minutes with a heat gun (careful not to burn the wood) and the clamps were bent enough to slip in place easily. Now on to treenail and bolts!


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Such a nice build Doc. Always look forward to seeing your work. I'm not there in skill but it's always nice to see what can be achieved if I just keep trying. looking forward to the next post.

Crazy how well I can machine metals to exact tolerance but struggle with wood. I think I'm going to try using the small hobby mill I have for wood and see if it helps. I fit everything by hand on wood projects right now and I just cant seem to get perfect fitment that way.
 
Such a nice build Doc. Always look forward to seeing your work. I'm not there in skill but it's always nice to see what can be achieved if I just keep trying. looking forward to the next post.

Crazy how well I can machine metals to exact tolerance but struggle with wood. I think I'm going to try using the small hobby mill I have for wood and see if it helps. I fit everything by hand on wood projects right now and I just cant seem to get perfect fitment that way.
I am in the same boat of watching with admiration while struggling with my own work. Doc is a great mentor and sets a high bar. Rich
 
Thanks for the kind words!

I finished all the planking in the hold and installed both upper and lower mortar pit clamps. Everything was given a first coat of poly. I also cut out the shell room lower support beams. They are boxwood. Swiss pear and holly will be used to build the shell room.


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Those riders look fantastic! Can't wait to see the shell room go up. Interested to see the structure of the mortar bed.
Have you oiled or poly-ed the hold already?
 
Thanks, guys!

I began construction of the shell room with the lower support beams. I cut them to overhang the floor riders by 3/32" on each end and then chamfered both ends of each for visual interest. These were glued in place. Next I cut out two filler pieces to fit between the support beams. These are 3/32" thinner than the thickness of the support beams so when the decking is installed, there will be a flush, flat surface. Next is to trim and finish the filler pieces.




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Thanks, guys!

I began construction of the shell room with the lower support beams. I cut them to overhang the floor riders by 3/32" on each end and then chamfered both ends of each for visual interest. These were glued in place. Next I cut out two filler pieces to fit between the support beams. These are 3/32" thinner than the thickness of the support beams so when the decking is installed, there will be a flush, flat surface. Next is to trim and finish the filler pieces.




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All of your work whether structurally associated or just a decorative touch is amazingly precise and uniform in results. The angle of each side matching so exactly is one example repeated six times. Rich
 
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