Greetings, dear Uwek I saw this knot on several works of outstanding masters.
I'm not sure that the fragment you indicated was dismantled while on sea. I tried to "steer" the rudder on the model, according to my observations, the rudder movement in this configuration is 60º.
I'm not strong in theory, and I don’t know what the rudder movement was on the brigs of that era. Perhaps our dear colleagues will tell us. My best regards
I think it is just a cover for the helm\tiller mechanism just in case the maintenance is required,
Interesting detail - manby ethanks for the excerpt of drawing and the additional photos
We are learning every day something new
I think also, that your configuration of 60° is correct - very good execution
We are learning every day something new
I think also, that your configuration of 60° is correct - very good execution
I made outdoor ladders.
The details on this build are amazing. Congratulations!
Interesting way of making, and the result is very good 
I have finished the ladder.
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Very good result
Concomitant damage. I was too quick to install it, while I was working on the wheel , deck organizer was damaged.
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Restoration.
In practice it has been shown that maximum efficiency is achieved with an angle of rotation less than about 35°.
Perhaps that is why only that movement of the tiller is allowed.
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Dear friend,
I admire your model. Congratulations, you are doing a great job. By the way, I would be happy if you could answer the question that Uwe asked a couple of months ago. I'm also curious about your answer. Thanks in advance. The question was about the hull planking;
Uwe asked that:
''On these photos we can see, that you also slightly chamfered the edges of each plank, or?
So the individual plank is a little bit more accentuated - looking very good.''
I admire your model. Congratulations, you are doing a great job. By the way, I would be happy if you could answer the question that Uwe asked a couple of months ago. I'm also curious about your answer. Thanks in advance. The question was about the hull planking;
Uwe asked that:
''On these photos we can see, that you also slightly chamfered the edges of each plank, or?
So the individual plank is a little bit more accentuated - looking very good.''
Following your build with great interest. Taking tips from ya. I am building almost the same exact model. I am building a scratch build cygne class brig as well. I will say yours is much more refined and exact. I am quite limited on tools and time. Keep up the awesome work. Hoping my build turns out as good as yours.
I have a novice question for you, how did you color the hull planking black without painting, did you use stain or a specific wood? I want to do something besides painting mine because I want to have nail marks showing through. I heard you can use regular hair dye or should I use professional wood dye. Your opinion please.
I like the double hull planking method, similar to ship kits, which makes thing significantly better. Question is how did you take in account the thickness difference. When you cut out the hull plates did you take in account this thickness change or not important in the grand scheme of things?
Greetings, dear Mustafa I have learned this from an outstanding Master Dmitriy Shevelev. I described this technology in my posts on “La Jacinthe” Schooner France -1:42 scale .
In order to highlight the joints, I used, just like Dimitriy, a dull needle, and afterwards, on advise of my friend with much experience in this field, i worked on the joints using a small triangular broach file. But there's one nuance. Before putting the covering I took away a small bevel from the edges of the upper part of each plank.
And most importantly, like I was saying earlier, is not to let any glue get on flat end of a plank.
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