Thanks.
It is cup bur; i have Panther burs set.... Here is a link..
https://www.lacytools.ca/product-p/772899.htm or this one https://www.jewelrysupply.com/Cup-Burs-12pc-Set_p_11174.html
Brigantine Phoenix, by Master Korabel [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter moreplovac
- Start date
- Watchers 47
It is cup bur; i have Panther burs set.... Here is a link..
https://www.lacytools.ca/product-p/772899.htm or this one https://www.jewelrysupply.com/Cup-Burs-12pc-Set_p_11174.html
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
OK, maybe a silly question. Your ship boat has position for two masts, but none are stowed in the boat, just oars? Were sails and mast stored below deck for the ships boat?
Not a silly question, at all.
I will put sails/mast later when i start working on sail... Did not want to start sail work just for this part. The eyebolts are actually just slightly in the deck and easy to pull out once i am ready for mast/sail...
I have decided to replace the martingale boom with a new one. The holes were not at the right distance... Same process, shaping it, drill the hole, etc...
Mounted on the boom and started to make the holds for jack staff.. Kind of a double wire hooks, interesting.. Here i am using a template to wrap the wire around..
Then just a layer of mat black colour...
Happy modelling..
Mounted on the boom and started to make the holds for jack staff.. Kind of a double wire hooks, interesting.. Here i am using a template to wrap the wire around..
Then just a layer of mat black colour...
Happy modelling..
thanks for the quick reply.. found them.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Updates look good on bow sprint and associated items.
If you are going for the "at sea" look, a bit of weathering of black with light dry brushing of grey to give the black a bit of wear might do well.
If you are going for the "at sea" look, a bit of weathering of black with light dry brushing of grey to give the black a bit of wear might do well.
Thanks, appreciated your comment.
Was not planning to go for the "at sea" look but will certainly consider doing a bit of weathering..
The fake shives are in place, made of wire piece, twisted around the template and glued in place..
Jib boom was glued to the bowsprit and 4mm rope was used to fasten the jib boom' heel...
Blocks and thimbles will be installed later..
The masts are next... woohoo
Happy modelling...
Jib boom was glued to the bowsprit and 4mm rope was used to fasten the jib boom' heel...
Blocks and thimbles will be installed later..
The masts are next... woohoo
Happy modelling...
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The jib traveller was made out of a piece of wire, 0.6mm in diameter. Twist, cut, solder, blackening and done.
Then i marked all masts and yards as per plan.
Started to build the trestle-tree, first by removing laser burns...
Now it is time to start preparing for a New Year...
Wish you all the best in the New Year with hopes we can go back travelling in a big way.
Cheers and take care...
See you in 2021..
Then i marked all masts and yards as per plan.
Started to build the trestle-tree, first by removing laser burns...
Now it is time to start preparing for a New Year...
Wish you all the best in the New Year with hopes we can go back travelling in a big way.
Cheers and take care...
See you in 2021..
Very nice workmanship. Looking forward to seeing your build progress in the New Year.
All parts are lightly sanded and ends were rounded, required holes are drilled with 0.6mm bit... I also inserted all eyebolts. In this case i used eyebolts provided with the kit. At this size they will not be that visible, particularly once blackened and hidden by other mast parts. You can insert them before or after you glue all parts but it is easier while all parts are easy to reach...
Cross-trees are glued inside with a CA glue.
Shroud supports are glued and sanded to correct shape.
Then i started to tapper mast with just a sandpaper.. The top has to be made a square to fit a mastcap.
All parts are ready for assembly..
Just make sure you follow correct angle at which the cross-trees seats on the mast.
And the mast was stained in golden oak..
Happy modelling....
Cross-trees are glued inside with a CA glue.
Shroud supports are glued and sanded to correct shape.
Then i started to tapper mast with just a sandpaper.. The top has to be made a square to fit a mastcap.
All parts are ready for assembly..
Just make sure you follow correct angle at which the cross-trees seats on the mast.
And the mast was stained in golden oak..
Happy modelling....
I like the pics with well done explanations. Good workmanship.
Thanks, hopefully it makes the building process a bit clearer..
Lets put some cleats on mast...
Piece of scotch tape was used to mark the location of cleats, easier to remove it after and dont have to worry about cleaning the marks afterwards...
The wire in the cleats have to be shortened a bit since wires might be preventing each other from penetrating the wood, as they supposed to be the the same line.. a bit of a glue in a drilled hole and slight push works well...
Then i started to work on topmasts... shaping with a sandpaper and using my wood lathe..
Dry fit testing...
Extra wood will be removed...
The work on topmasts will continue later. Was feeling like working on cheers now so making a cheers was a next step. The plan and real parts are not matching in my kit so a bit of double-checking was done prior to removing all needed parts...
Cheers are put on a toothpick that was widened with a few layers of scotch tape so parts can fit in and hold in place while working on them. You can use a drill bit covered with wax or some other parts, whatever works...
Happy modelling..
Piece of scotch tape was used to mark the location of cleats, easier to remove it after and dont have to worry about cleaning the marks afterwards...
The wire in the cleats have to be shortened a bit since wires might be preventing each other from penetrating the wood, as they supposed to be the the same line.. a bit of a glue in a drilled hole and slight push works well...
Then i started to work on topmasts... shaping with a sandpaper and using my wood lathe..
Dry fit testing...
Extra wood will be removed...
The work on topmasts will continue later. Was feeling like working on cheers now so making a cheers was a next step. The plan and real parts are not matching in my kit so a bit of double-checking was done prior to removing all needed parts...
Cheers are put on a toothpick that was widened with a few layers of scotch tape so parts can fit in and hold in place while working on them. You can use a drill bit covered with wax or some other parts, whatever works...
Happy modelling..
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Interesting method for holding the fiddly bits. I like that idea of using wax...any issues with wax getting on parts and being able to remove it after?
There will be a small wax residue but nothing significant and not removable. In this case there is a small amount grouped on the bottom of the cheers as it gets collected by sliding it down the drill bit...
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Great work, keep it going!
Ok, thanks for the explanation
Work on topmasts (and parts of it) continues, drilling the hole for a fid and inserting it in..
The crosstrees are build next. I decided to do the work of building the other topmast parts, getting them ready for assembly.
I made two extra holes on trestle-trees (towards the back) that will be filled..
For drilling the hole, in this case 0.6mm, i used a new set of bits that Santa brought to me..
Happy modelling...
The crosstrees are build next. I decided to do the work of building the other topmast parts, getting them ready for assembly.
I made two extra holes on trestle-trees (towards the back) that will be filled..
For drilling the hole, in this case 0.6mm, i used a new set of bits that Santa brought to me..
Happy modelling...
Those are nice drill bits. Where did Santa find them?