Build Log Artesania Latina "La Pinta" -

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Feb 5, 2022
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Second model probably will be just as bad as the first effort. Anyway, I never got to rant and rave 'Seventy Six trombones' etc. because illness (not the Omicron pestilence) prevented a family gathering for my 76th. weekend before Easter the Grandchildren delighted in giving me the La Pinta kit. So here goes with apologies for blunders, ahem's and obvious mistakes. I've watched the experts throughout SOS ... well we all start at the very bottom and hopefully work our way up. All pointers, advise, recommendations etcetera are most welcome.

02_La Pinta contents.png
 
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Checked contents in the box. all were neatly packaged and looked a bit intimidating but they were there glaring up "Built me" Thankfully unlike my previous build La Nina, this kit had a very nice illustrated colour booklet full of instructions and not a CD which was most welcome as my laptop decided to stop working by ceasing to exist.

03_La Pinta Instructions.png
 
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As I've done with 1/350 plastic model warship camouflage schemes I traced the laser cuts for future reference in case of misadventure by way of breakage, lose or misplacement. At this age I find it necessary to safe guard memory. Example; I often cannot remember having had breakfast and if I did i have no idea what I had. Simple, keep it written.

04_La Pinta Tracing.png
 
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I note that the preferred standard adhesive among members is Titebond. As it' a product never used by me i thought it a good idea to compared with the two PVA glues used around this household and for past projects. Why was this important? I have no idea, Just me .

05_La Pinta 3 Glue Choice.png
 
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Further I did a drawdown on glass to see which had the best clarity. After overnight cure adhesion to the glass was similar but perhaps slightly better with the Aquahere. Titebond I noted had the best open time and was more immediately workable whereas the WeldBond dried a little too fast by comparison to the other two. Again, Why did I do this test? I has no idea.

06_La Pinta 3 Glue Drawdown Clarity.png
 
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Next came the Shellac (250g) which I finally managed to procure without spending a penny. Mixed with with methylated spirits and will be used on La Pinta model as Hopefully I progress.

07_La Pinta Shellac.png
 
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disassembled the false keel and bulkheads and tried the first dry fit. All looked pretty good to these eyes Also drew the centre on the false deck Bow deck and bridge deck, (poop deck?). Please note, the postings will yo-yo between exterior and interior work places. I enjoy the outdoors, fresh air and just being outside. The wife also enjoys my being outside not making dust or a mess inside her abode.

08_La Pinta-Dry Fit + Centre Line.png
 
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Next step. dry fit and squaring the Bulkheads to the keel very carefully.

09_La Pinta Squaring keel 2 Bulkheads.png
 
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With issues encountered on my previous model paranoia set in and it was ultra necessary for me to make sure the keel was and remained straight. Whew! so far so good.

10_La Pinta Straightening the Keel.png
 
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Nov 6, 2019
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Location
Sunshine Coast Queensland Australia
I note that the preferred standard adhesive among members is Titebond. As it' a product never used by me i thought it a good idea to compared with the two PVA glues used around this household and for past projects. Why was this important? I have no idea, Just me .

View attachment 303740
I'd go with the Selley's Aquadhere every time but I use the Quick Grip variety. Hold the pieces together for a minute or two and no need to clamp unless they are under pressure. I also use Weld Bond sometimes when metal is involved.
 
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YIKES!!! my worst fears have been realised. Note the Bowsprit head is slightly off centre (leaning to port?). grrrr. not good. Another challenge to keep me awake at night. I don't think it's the camera angle but crossing fingers that it is.

12_La Pinta not so Happy with that.png
 
Joined
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Messages
258
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I'd go with the Selley's Aquadhere every time but I use the Quick Grip variety. Hold the pieces together for a minute or two and no need to clamp unless they are under pressure. I also use Weld Bond sometimes when metal is involved.
Thank you, I agree with your comments. Those products work wonders for me.
 
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Side step for a moment. Out comes my most expensive tool or "Toolz Miter Cutter" which I purchased from BNA models Aust. during a moment of weakness and out of sheer disgust for the plastic cutter commonly sold as part of must have modelling tools. This Hungarian cutter is magic, no wobble, no broken blades, precise cuts and cutting. Simple love it despite a few flesh wounds during initial trials.

13_La Pinta RP Toolz Miter Cutter.png
 
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Got a bit excited and had to start planking the bridge deck just so I could use Toolz Cutter.

14_La Nina Poop Decking Planked.png
 
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When one side of ply or timber is coated or glued its necessary place the article under pressure until it cures unless both sides are coated with the same material. I use heavy books. Oh Yeah the bridge deck is under the book.

View attachment 303757
 
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Back to the ship. The main deck curve presented a bit of a challenge in that the false deck wouldn't sit properly onto the bulkheads. After much thought and deliberation I resorted to the best possible holding down solution. Please do not gasp in horror. It worked and caused not damage to the wood work. :)

17_La Pinta Clamping False Deck.png
 
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That's it for now. Time for a mindless entertaining movie to relax the mind and digest all the delicious Easter Eats. Take Care SOS.
 
Joined
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Used the pencil method using an 8B - may have achieved more charcoal on fingers than on the Basswood. Read and viewed posts where trennels' are made using toothpicks this was beyond my limited abilities. Thought about it but reverted to the pensil method.

19_La Pinta B8 Pencil.png
 
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