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Agree with the other comments it will look fine once deck furniture in place.
Thinking about it now if you started at the stern the stagger would have been perfect.
Thinking about it now if you started at the stern the stagger would have been perfect.
Trying to figure out what to do with the deck color. Because I had to go so dark with the hull, a real bright deck doesn't seem to work, at least to my eye.
The Colonial Maple and the Walnut Shellac are close, I can lighten that Walnut Shellac a bit. I've got some shellac flakes on order, the shellac I'm using is a bit too amber I think. Maybe I'll wait til the flakes get here and see if I can mix up something using that Walnut tint. The decking material doesn't appear to stain very well, at least from an appearance standpoint. Again, at least to my eye anyway.
Thanks;
Charles
The Colonial Maple and the Walnut Shellac are close, I can lighten that Walnut Shellac a bit. I've got some shellac flakes on order, the shellac I'm using is a bit too amber I think. Maybe I'll wait til the flakes get here and see if I can mix up something using that Walnut tint. The decking material doesn't appear to stain very well, at least from an appearance standpoint. Again, at least to my eye anyway.
Thanks;
Charles
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Modellers choice really, you could try just a clear poly coat which will darken it slightly.
Here is the deck on a modern replica schooner.
Thanks Richie, that deck color was what I was looking for, just didn't have the right stuff on hand to get that result. I ordered some garnet shellac flakes, hoping that might be a better color on the next one.
The attached pic is what I came up with. As a finish, it came out OK, but I don't like the color. The differences in the decking material didn't help. I like the way the light plays on it when you move it around, interesting affect, but just sitting still, not so much.
Now to figure out what to do about the cap rails since I can't find the beech material specified in the instructions.
The attached pic is what I came up with. As a finish, it came out OK, but I don't like the color. The differences in the decking material didn't help. I like the way the light plays on it when you move it around, interesting affect, but just sitting still, not so much.
Now to figure out what to do about the cap rails since I can't find the beech material specified in the instructions.
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Always try your selections on scrap first.....
You mean like this?
There's other pieces I threw away, plus the tests with the deck planking material a few posts back.
Charles
There's other pieces I threw away, plus the tests with the deck planking material a few posts back.
Charles
I think the problem is the shellac, it's too amber.
I decided to rip out the deck, the wales, and the mahogany hull planking and start over. As I was stripping the shellac from the deck, a better color started to emerge.
It's actually a bit more amber than the picture shows but it's a lot closer to what I was looking for.
So I'm going strip the shellac off the deck and hull. I've got those shellac flakes coming, they won't get here for another week or so, but I'll play around with that and see what I can come up with.
Still a little concerned about the finish on the hull covering up all the planking mistakes, but if that's the case, I'll just rip out the old planking and replace it using that planking method described in the instruction sheet I missed in the bottom of the box.
I decided to rip out the deck, the wales, and the mahogany hull planking and start over. As I was stripping the shellac from the deck, a better color started to emerge.
It's actually a bit more amber than the picture shows but it's a lot closer to what I was looking for.
So I'm going strip the shellac off the deck and hull. I've got those shellac flakes coming, they won't get here for another week or so, but I'll play around with that and see what I can come up with.
Still a little concerned about the finish on the hull covering up all the planking mistakes, but if that's the case, I'll just rip out the old planking and replace it using that planking method described in the instruction sheet I missed in the bottom of the box.
You can't polish a t---! (Insert your preferred term for fecal matter.)
New material on order, see ya in a couple of weeks.
Charles
New material on order, see ya in a couple of weeks.
Charles
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Didn't look to bad but you have already made a decision to redo so full steam ahead then, good luck.
This is what the flexible beech looks like in case it was misplaced, it is available to purchase.
Flexible Beech Timber Strips - Timbers // Modelers Central™
Flexible Beech Timber Strips To Help Build Your Model Ship. Modelers Central The Home Of Wooden Model Builders. Order Online For Fast Delivery.
www.modelerscentral.com
Thanks Richie, I ordered the replacement deck and hull planking from Modelers Central. If you can run down there, pick the stuff up, jump on a plane and deliver them, I'll have my wife fix you up with a suite at the Waikiki Marriott. 
On that beech for the rails, was that bundled up with the dowels and other misc. lumber in your kit? The reason I ask is I never undid that bundle of wood items until the other day, and those beech strips weren't there. No worries I'll just reorder them, but I was curious where they were in your kit.
Regards;
Charles
On that beech for the rails, was that bundled up with the dowels and other misc. lumber in your kit? The reason I ask is I never undid that bundle of wood items until the other day, and those beech strips weren't there. No worries I'll just reorder them, but I was curious where they were in your kit.
Regards;
Charles
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Sorry don't think that will happen as the shop is 1000km from me too so more than a day trip, Waikiki Marriott sounds good though.Thanks Richie, I ordered the replacement deck and hull planking from Modelers Central. If you can run down there, pick the stuff up, jump on a plane and deliver them, I'll have my wife fix you up with a suite at the Waikiki Marriott.
On that beech for the rails, was that bundled up with the dowels and other misc. lumber in your kit? The reason I ask is I never undid that bundle of wood items until the other day, and those beech strips weren't there. No worries I'll just reorder them, but I was curious where they were in your kit.
Regards;
Charles
Not sure how mine was packaged now as it was over 25 years ago as you can tell from my parts list, but I marked everything off to match inventory.
So while my Port Jackson Schooner is in dry dock awaiting the replacement material for it's refurb, I've been playing around with some colors for the hull, deck, and trim.
I'd like to take a moment and give a shout out to Gary Renshaw at Modelers Central for his outstanding support in helping me get the right replacement material ordered. I've only had to contact Modelers Central a couple of times on this project and his responses were always prompt and helpful. If you're out there brother Gary, "Good On Ya Mate!!"
My photography is pretty weak, but the darker piece next to the ship is a mahogany veneer finished with garnet shellac. I have to admit I'm kinda liking that for the hull planking. The hull planking is mahogany as well.
The piece on the left is a maple veneer with just straight blonde shellac, thinking about that for the deck, and the piece on the right is a piece of birch ply finished in blonde shellac with a little mahogany tint added, thinking about that for the trim. (wales, cap rails, etc.) I may go a bit darker on the mahogany tint.
I'm lousy at matching colors so I was hoping I could get some input on some other color combinations that might go better together. I've got four cans of different stains that I will be playing around with today, so I can post them in a couple of days when I finish them.
As always, thanks and hope all are well.
Charles
I'd like to take a moment and give a shout out to Gary Renshaw at Modelers Central for his outstanding support in helping me get the right replacement material ordered. I've only had to contact Modelers Central a couple of times on this project and his responses were always prompt and helpful. If you're out there brother Gary, "Good On Ya Mate!!"
My photography is pretty weak, but the darker piece next to the ship is a mahogany veneer finished with garnet shellac. I have to admit I'm kinda liking that for the hull planking. The hull planking is mahogany as well.
The piece on the left is a maple veneer with just straight blonde shellac, thinking about that for the deck, and the piece on the right is a piece of birch ply finished in blonde shellac with a little mahogany tint added, thinking about that for the trim. (wales, cap rails, etc.) I may go a bit darker on the mahogany tint.
I'm lousy at matching colors so I was hoping I could get some input on some other color combinations that might go better together. I've got four cans of different stains that I will be playing around with today, so I can post them in a couple of days when I finish them.
As always, thanks and hope all are well.
Charles
Started re-planking the hull using the method described in the tip sheet that came with the kit, and I can tell already I'm running into the same problem as before.
In this picture, "A" is the first plank, glued in place flush with the deck with no taper. (Per the instructions in both the manual and the planking tip sheet included with the kit.) "B" is a temporarily attached plank placed halfway between the bottom of plank "A" and the bottom of the keel, following it's natural upward sweep at the bow and stern. "C" would be the first plank to install.
The first point of confusion for me is in both the instruction manual, and the tip sheet, it clearly states that plank "A" and "C" are not tapered. All the other planks are tapered, at the bottom of the plank, based on the calculation of the amount of space to fill divided by the number of planks to fill that space. Noting that no plank should be tapered more than half of it's width.
OK, fine, the problem is, just like I ran into the first time, plank "C" (and all the following planks) have an upward sweep to them. Easy enough to force plank "C" flush with the bottom of plank "A", but that basically changes the natural path the plank wants to follow, which according to most of what I have read, you're really not supposed to do that. Now in this particular case, forcing plank "C" to lay flush with the bottom of plank "A" isn't really going to cause any issues with buckling or anything like that, and the bottom taper on "C" will allow for the upward sweep of the remaining planks, I just want to make sure if I go that route, it's not going to cause any problems.
The other problem is it's going to take 9 planks to fill that upper region of the hull. There's no way I can fit 9 planks, tapered at no more than half it's width, in that space at the bow. I've looked at the different kinds of joints you can make in cases like this, but as usual, looking at all the different options gets a bit confusing for a newbie like myself.
I'd sure like to get a nice clean install of these planks so I can bring out a nice finish on the hull rather than covering everything up.
As always, thanks in advance, hope all are well.
Charles
In this picture, "A" is the first plank, glued in place flush with the deck with no taper. (Per the instructions in both the manual and the planking tip sheet included with the kit.) "B" is a temporarily attached plank placed halfway between the bottom of plank "A" and the bottom of the keel, following it's natural upward sweep at the bow and stern. "C" would be the first plank to install.
The first point of confusion for me is in both the instruction manual, and the tip sheet, it clearly states that plank "A" and "C" are not tapered. All the other planks are tapered, at the bottom of the plank, based on the calculation of the amount of space to fill divided by the number of planks to fill that space. Noting that no plank should be tapered more than half of it's width.
OK, fine, the problem is, just like I ran into the first time, plank "C" (and all the following planks) have an upward sweep to them. Easy enough to force plank "C" flush with the bottom of plank "A", but that basically changes the natural path the plank wants to follow, which according to most of what I have read, you're really not supposed to do that. Now in this particular case, forcing plank "C" to lay flush with the bottom of plank "A" isn't really going to cause any issues with buckling or anything like that, and the bottom taper on "C" will allow for the upward sweep of the remaining planks, I just want to make sure if I go that route, it's not going to cause any problems.
The other problem is it's going to take 9 planks to fill that upper region of the hull. There's no way I can fit 9 planks, tapered at no more than half it's width, in that space at the bow. I've looked at the different kinds of joints you can make in cases like this, but as usual, looking at all the different options gets a bit confusing for a newbie like myself.
I'd sure like to get a nice clean install of these planks so I can bring out a nice finish on the hull rather than covering everything up.
As always, thanks in advance, hope all are well.
Charles
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Planking I think is more of an art than a science and it is also a weak area for me, in fact it is the reason my PJS went into a cupboard for 25 years because I couldn't get the planking right.
I noticed you have leveled the sides to the deck, was there a particular reason for that, here is a picture of mine in the early stages of construction for reference, the planks in your picture look like they are very wide, are you planking a third layer?
I didn't follow the planking tip sheet and just went all the way down to the keel from deck, my instructions seemed to me to do it that way.
The planks will need trimming with a bend and twist at the bow so they lay flat, it's tricky to do or cutting the planks and use shorter lengths, try searching some youtube videos as there are many ways to do it and try using the 1:1 scale plans for reference where the planks should go.
Here are some pictures of mine which may help.
Port Jackson Schooner - First Build
Finally completed building my first model wooden ship, started September 1995 and completed September 2020, this is my version of Modelers Shipyard “Port Jackson Schooner”. There are plenty of things not quite right and things I can improve on but I am very happy with the overall result.
shipsofscale.com
Sorry this is one of those tasks that is hard to explain and the learning comes from doing and the mistakes made along the way, or perhaps a general query in the planking forum may help with some more expert advice.
Thanks Richie;
The new planking is the same width as the kit but since I super glued the planking the first time, I just sanded it down real good instead of trying to remove it. So more like 2 1/2 layers.
As far as the level deck goes, I haven't started on the bulwarks yet, still thinking about how I want to do that now that the bulkhead horns are gone.
I've got a feeling that my schooner is headed to the cupboard as well. I started this because it got so depressing around here with all the restrictions that I got to the point where I didn't feel like going out much. Then the bass player in my band died in a motorcycle accident so that, along with everything else, pretty much put me off music, at least for now, so I turned my little home recording studio into a small wood working shop.
For me, it was always about the wood working. The precision and detail so many here are able to achieve with these models is a bit beyond me I fear. I've started some projects around the house that are more in my wheel house so I'll probably be putting the schooner aside for a bit while I work on coaxing the hidden beauty out of the wood I bought for some of these home projects.
Hope all is well with you and yours Richie, take care and God bless.
Charles
The new planking is the same width as the kit but since I super glued the planking the first time, I just sanded it down real good instead of trying to remove it. So more like 2 1/2 layers.
As far as the level deck goes, I haven't started on the bulwarks yet, still thinking about how I want to do that now that the bulkhead horns are gone.
I've got a feeling that my schooner is headed to the cupboard as well. I started this because it got so depressing around here with all the restrictions that I got to the point where I didn't feel like going out much. Then the bass player in my band died in a motorcycle accident so that, along with everything else, pretty much put me off music, at least for now, so I turned my little home recording studio into a small wood working shop.
For me, it was always about the wood working. The precision and detail so many here are able to achieve with these models is a bit beyond me I fear. I've started some projects around the house that are more in my wheel house so I'll probably be putting the schooner aside for a bit while I work on coaxing the hidden beauty out of the wood I bought for some of these home projects.
Hope all is well with you and yours Richie, take care and God bless.
Charles
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Thanks Richie;
The new planking is the same width as the kit but since I super glued the planking the first time, I just sanded it down real good instead of trying to remove it. So more like 2 1/2 layers.
As far as the level deck goes, I haven't started on the bulwarks yet, still thinking about how I want to do that now that the bulkhead horns are gone.
I've got a feeling that my schooner is headed to the cupboard as well. I started this because it got so depressing around here with all the restrictions that I got to the point where I didn't feel like going out much. Then the bass player in my band died in a motorcycle accident so that, along with everything else, pretty much put me off music, at least for now, so I turned my little home recording studio into a small wood working shop.
For me, it was always about the wood working. The precision and detail so many here are able to achieve with these models is a bit beyond me I fear. I've started some projects around the house that are more in my wheel house so I'll probably be putting the schooner aside for a bit while I work on coaxing the hidden beauty out of the wood I bought for some of these home projects.
Hope all is well with you and yours Richie, take care and God bless.
Charles
Hello Charles,
For sure a lot of things are going on in your life right now.
Sorry to read about the loss of your friend.
I find that in times of great stress and mourning, I can't find the piece of mind to either start focusing on modeling or start playing music. There doesn't appear to be much sense in doing just that.
One should be able to enjoy the journey, that being building a model or writing and playing music. If not, there's nothing wrong in putting it aside for a while.
It's a wild idea, but, you kinda suggested it already, you could start measuring how far you're off by creating cardboard (shaped) templates on all bulkheads. Check how far you're out, then you know where you're at.
If and where necessary, try to get back to nominal as best as you can. I think it's paramount for your hull to get it right. You can find it anywhere on this forum; if your hull isn't right, nor will be the rest of your build.
I know, far-fetched, but throwing away what you've done so far seems a little far-fetched too.
Kind regards,
Johan
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Sorry to hear your situation Charles, wishing you the best for the future.Thanks Richie;
The new planking is the same width as the kit but since I super glued the planking the first time, I just sanded it down real good instead of trying to remove it. So more like 2 1/2 layers.
As far as the level deck goes, I haven't started on the bulwarks yet, still thinking about how I want to do that now that the bulkhead horns are gone.
I've got a feeling that my schooner is headed to the cupboard as well. I started this because it got so depressing around here with all the restrictions that I got to the point where I didn't feel like going out much. Then the bass player in my band died in a motorcycle accident so that, along with everything else, pretty much put me off music, at least for now, so I turned my little home recording studio into a small wood working shop.
For me, it was always about the wood working. The precision and detail so many here are able to achieve with these models is a bit beyond me I fear. I've started some projects around the house that are more in my wheel house so I'll probably be putting the schooner aside for a bit while I work on coaxing the hidden beauty out of the wood I bought for some of these home projects.
Hope all is well with you and yours Richie, take care and God bless.
Charles
I love working with wood as well and this hobby can be a great tonic, however I think you also need to be in the right frame of mind to enjoy it and get the best results, by all means put the model aside for now and come back to it when ready, you will know when that time is and hopefully not in 25 years time.
I too am recovering from some injuries and have taken time out of my build, now I have got to the point where I am picking up pieces and looking at what's next so think I am just about ready and able to start again.
Be patient and your time will come, take care.
Cheers
Thanks Richie and Johan. To be clear, just setting it aside for now, not throwing it out.
Johan, great suggestion on the card stock templates. I'll give that a go.
Charles
Johan, great suggestion on the card stock templates. I'll give that a go.
Charles
