Build Log: RCMP St. Roch [COMPLETED BUILD]

[Carleroo]

I completed the planking of the hull. There will lots of crack-filling and edge-smoothing. With respect to cracks, I added the balsa wood blocks at the stern, thinking that this would provide a surface for the hull planks as I bent them round the stern. But I discovered that the planks are too short. They only extend from the bow to the last bulwark. And since I shaped the balsa blocks to be a surface for the planks, they are too small just to sand flush with the planks and paint over. So I will now make and bend small planks to cover the naked stern. So, when you look at the photo, you can use your imagination to see that it looks like a crack of you know what...Like a plumber bending down and allowing his pants to slide a bit!!

 

[RogerD]

Hi Carl, those Billing instructions are particularly lacking for that hull construction. I think their idea is to use the balsa blocks for the stern without planking over. The blocks being then sanded level with the planks and filled as necessary. The shorter supplied plank lengths would seem to indicate this but it's definitely confusing.

 

[Carleroo]

Yes, I agree that the instructions are inadequate. There is no mention of the balsa blocks or where it should go. There is certainly no illustration included. I have figured out where they belong, after it was too late. So now I am doing major plastic surgery to remedy the issue. I am disappointed in the Billings' lack of clear instructions. While this is my first ship kit in over 40 years, I have made lots of trams and trains - mainly Occre kits. I have found that their instructions, which include detail drawings or photos and step by step instructions have minimized the guessing and head-scratching. They are not perfect, but certainly a lot better than the Billings' in which the entirety of their instructions covers 4 small paragraphs!!

 

[Carleroo]

Managed to fill in the spaces and do some reconstructive surgery at the stern.

 

[Carleroo]

Hi
I believe that the constructive process of my St Roch can help you.
I have to warn, that the jib picked up like this in the bow stay is not correct
The jib must be collected in a package in the stay anchorage with the foredeck
Cheer up!
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsFJgchMjchsgQMOd4OmY96jf46g?e=5Drkkg

Hello Llaut, I have a question. How did you make the wood that you laid over the edges of the deck? See photo

 

[Carleroo]

Thanks. Another question...How did you get the depth markings on the hull?

 

[Carleroo]

I am just about finished the planking of the hull. Thanks goodness for filler, glue and sandpaper! I have started to add deck planking. I noticed that other builders have added some strips along the edges of the deck, up against the gunwales. I will do the same and probably paint it white, similar to the gunwales.

 

[Carleroo]

Thanks Roger..

Hi Roger (and others). How did you make the lifeboat davits. The instructions just say to use the brass rods, but from photos and their drawings, they appear to narrow from the bottom to the top.. Can you share what you did to make them look realistic?

 

[RogerD]

Hi Carl,

For a little more “limited” realism for my build and to help in my construction I firstly discarded the supplied rod because I wanted to rework the davit arms, similar to the actual museum St. Roch. Without digressing you will notice in the photo below the railings end at the lower part of the davits. I’ll get back to that in a bit. Also, those davit arms need to be secured adequately on the model (davit pedestal).

So I cut lengths of brass tubing to small consistent lengths for the lower part. I measured the actual height and bend of the total arms and then cut rod to length. The rod diameter was chosen to fit inside the brass tubing. However, to help secure the davit arms I allowed for a cm or so extra rod length. That extra cm protrudes past the bottom of the tubing. A hole drilled in the boatdeck allows you to secure the complete davit upright (epoxy).

Back to the railings. To secure the railing ends in an efficient manner I measured and drilled holes in the lower davit tubing before putting anything together. (Reminder to myself to buy a good model-makers vice ). Then when I built the railings I used a touch of epoxy to glue the ends in place into the tubes. Very fiddly to get it all aligned but patience in the key.

I made small brass rings for the head of the davit arms to give me a place to secure the blocks of the falls. I soldered them on then soldered the brass rod into the brass tubing, making sure everything was lined up for the railing lengths, heights and the davit head direction.

I didn’t reduce the davit head diameter as in the plans. Obviously more accuracy and realism is up to you but I hope this helps.

 

[Carleroo]

Hi Carl,

For a little more “limited” realism for my build and to help in my construction I firstly discarded the supplied rod because I wanted to rework the davit arms, similar to the actual museum St. Roch. Without digressing you will notice in the photo below the railings end at the lower part of the davits. I’ll get back to that in a bit. Also, those davit arms need to be secured adequately on the model (davit pedestal).

So I cut lengths of brass tubing to small consistent lengths for the lower part. I measured the actual height and bend of the total arms and then cut rod to length. The rod diameter was chosen to fit inside the brass tubing. However, to help secure the davit arms I allowed for a cm or so extra rod length. That extra cm protrudes past the bottom of the tubing. A hole drilled in the boatdeck allows you to secure the complete davit upright (epoxy).

Back to the railings. To secure the railing ends in an efficient manner I measured and drilled holes in the lower davit tubing before putting anything together. (Reminder to myself to buy a good model-makers vice ). Then when I built the railings I used a touch of epoxy to glue the ends in place into the tubes. Very fiddly to get it all aligned but patience in the key.

I made small brass rings for the head of the davit arms to give me a place to secure the blocks of the falls. I soldered them on then soldered the brass rod into the brass tubing, making sure everything was lined up for the railing lengths, heights and the davit head direction.

I didn’t reduce the davit head diameter as in the plans. Obviously more accuracy and realism is up to you but I hope this helps.



View attachment 264829

Many thanks or this. I will try myself to make something more in sync with what you did and the original. Where did you find brass tubing?

 

[RogerD]

Hi again Carl,
I am an avid (some might say rabid, as in extreme ) N-scale railroad modeller so I had the parts in my scrap box.You might want to try a local model shop.

 

[Carleroo]

Hi again Carl,
I am an avid (some might say rabid, as in extreme ) N-scale railroad modeller so I had the parts in my scrap box.You might want to try a local model shop.

Thanks. I'll look around..

I'm making some steady progress with the St. Roch. I planked the decks and stained them. I'm now working on the cabin adding planks, doors, etc. For the windows I am microscope glass using the smaller slide slips for the portholes. It probably won't make much of a difference since the windows are so small, but I have been using microscope glass for various trams and railcars that I have made. So far, so good. I still have 10 fingers!

Hi again Carl,
I am an avid (some might say rabid, as in extreme ) N-scale railroad modeller so I had the parts in my scrap box.You might want to try a local model sho

 

[RogerD]

It’s looking great Carl, fast progress.

I used Micro Crystal clear for those small ports. It doesn’t work on larger areas that need glazing but has a lot of uses. It’s normally a model railroad product. See below.

For larger glass areas on a paddle steamer model I built I wanted something to darken but not blackout the windows and ports. So I rummaged through my drawers and found old photograph negatives of the family and old friends. Glueing the cut out negatives internally to windows and ports gave that required effect and the best part was it looked like images of people inside the superstructure. A photo negative image of my daughter, as a little girl, is now a part of my model. What could be better?

(Edit: Oops, forgot Micro Crystal photo):

 

[Carleroo]

Using old film negatives - what a great idea and very creative!! I will keep the Micro Crystal in mind - I have been making Occre trams and have not been able to find anything for the headlights. Maybe this will work. I presume it fills a space and forms a hard, transparent glass effect?

 

[RogerD]

You spread it with something like a toothpick. Start at one edge and drag the product across. Starts out white and dries clear. It forms a film, not as a fill.

 

[Carleroo]

You spread it with something like a toothpick. Start at one edge and drag the product across. Starts out white and dries clear. It forms a film, not as a fill.

I'll have to give it a try. I imagine it's at hobby shops. BTW, I may want to ask you a few questions regarding railroad models. I have built a few locomotives and train cars -Occre kits, but want to build a Canadian caboose from scratch. But I need a bit of advice regarding what kind and where I can source some of the parts that I will need. Is there a way I can connect with you outside of this forum (e.g. private message function), since it is not about ships??

 

[RogerD]

No problem Carl. PM sent.

 

[Carleroo]

Hello Llaut, I have a question. How did you make the wood that you laid over the edges of the deck? See photo

CarHi. Your log has been very helpful for me as I stumble along. I especially like the various additions - the rudder and the patching on the hull. Hoe did you create the patch repairs? Also, how did you make the depth marking? Thanks, Carl

 

[Carleroo]

More progress. Finished the decks and parts of the main cabin. I deliberately left small gaps between the planks, only because it does accentuate the wooden look.

 

[Carleroo]

I installed the rudder. I decided to enhance it with some repairs and other strapping. I used thin aluminum strips for the effect. Also, some additional finishing to the deck.