Building a Ship's Boat

Grab a set of lines and go for it. It can be complicated or simple. It’s what you make it. The plans for my tug showed the upswept sheers of a whaler for the ships little boat. I prefer the look of a flatter sheer. So I just looked for some hull lines and filled in details gleaned from various photos. It’s all fun.678C3CF1-1299-423C-8706-156BEEA67CA3.jpegC4F9B3B6-32AA-4133-A4E2-CE2353B493D5.jpeg
 
Greetings, I have built 13 ship's boats using a method almost exactly as Allan describes, 2 for Bounty, 5 for Surprise and 6 for Bellona.
I have always used balsa for the blanks and they are sacrificial as the birth of the boat requires removal of the blank in lots of pieces.
I have refined the process as I developed the technique. Initially the blanks were solid but I then used 2mm thick balsa spaced to the rib positions. I found this made it easier to remove the blank.
Carval planked boats were relatively straightforward but I found the clinker built boats a bit more of a challenge. The smallest planks that I could work with were 2mm wide so at 1:75 the finished plank width equalling 150mm was a bit wide but they look fine on the finished model.
 
I prefer the look of a flatter sheer.
Totally understood and why not go with what makes you happy?

I prefer to go with boats that were actually used on a given ship, nation, and era. For example for a British 28 gun 6th rate of about 1776 I would include a 24 or 22 foot launch, 28 foot pinnace and an 18 foot cutter.

The main thing is enjoy the ride.
 
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I have always used balsa for the blanks and they are sacrificial as the birth of the boat requires removal of the blank in lots of pieces.
Thanks Shipmaker!

I understand and it makes sense if you only want to use the forming piece one time. Balsa is easy to work with and cheap so a good choice. I tend use something a bit harder as I save the plugs in the event I need to make an additional boat for someone which has occurred on several occasions.

In your photos, what kind of boats are they? Based on the sheer and width at the transom I am guessing it is launch, not a long boat, and the second from the left looks like a pinnace but I am not sure about the others. Again I am guessing but based on the lapstrake are they cutters and a yawl?

Allan
 
Once the full frames are in place the half frames go in. I have found it is easiest to install these temporarily while wet. They easily conform to the shape of the plug and can be clamped or taped in place while each one dries. Once dry they can be glued in place. As with the square frames, care needs to be taken so there is no glue on the frame and plug, only in the rabbet of the stern post, keel, and stem.
The photo is the 23 foot launch with all frames and transom installed. Note that lining off for the planking is on several frames.

6 All frames in place.JPG
 
Your work here is amazing and thin you for sharing! I will certainly bookmark this. There was a log here that used woman's stocking material and resin to create hulls from molds like this. It would also be a good way to use your wonderful setup.



Rob
 
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Could someone give a quick tutorial on the differences among the various boats? I have Mays' book and have read it a few times but I still can't tell a yawl from y'all. They all look pretty much he same to me. Any help would be appreciated :)
 
Could someone give a quick tutorial on the differences among the various boats
In short, each had a different purpose. Ships boats were designed for a great variety of tasks and conditions. As a result the shapes and sizes varied with the purpose for which it was intended. There were also evolutions for each over time. I love the Mays book and use it regularly but Brian Lavery gives five full pages describing the types of boats and purposes of each in The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War. As it is copyrighted I cannot copy that much material here. A short synopsis though might help
The Boats' Functions
Moving the ship
Anchoring and mooring (I tried to get rid of the picture to the left but when I save the post it automatically changes the word to the picture. Sorry.)
Military uses
Transport of people and stores
Communications

Some interesting points from Lavery follow:

Boat types
Long boat- Traditionally the largest and heaviest boat carried on a ship. When I say large, the HMS Prince carried a 52 foot long boat in 1618.
These were primarily used for transport. A ship normally left port with enough fresh water for three months and food for six months. Longboats, and then launches, when they became the standard of the two in November 1780, were the primary type of boat for these chores.
Pinnace They were used mainly to carry personnel. They were always single banked with each oarsman sitting on the opposite side to his thole pin to give him extra leverage. We often see modern models of pinnaces set up double banked. This is probably due to misinterpretation of contemporary drawings.
Barge - Mainly a larger version of the pinnace with a typical length to breadth ratio of 5 to 1.
Yawl Originally a clinker built boat originating in Deal. It was considered a good sea-boat, and highly regarded by officers who often requested them instead of longboats
The cutter was another clinker built boat from Deal. While yawls were later built carvel style, cutters were always lapstrake. It had a very sharp bow compared to other boats of the time and was broader, deeper and shorter than barges and pinnaces. They were larger than yawls and very popular with many captains. They came into use in 1740 for third rates and larger to assist in pressing men.

There is much more, but hopefully researching contemporary plans, scantlings and contracts will help. There are a lot of high resolution plans on the Wiki Commons site found at RMG and more in low res at RMG Collections as well. Some plans have scantlings on the plan as seen below. I think other than commonly missing parts the main mistake on modern models is the inappropriate placement and/or number of tholes for various types and sizes of boats. Again this may be because the plans can be deceptive in their presentation. In the pinnace plan below it looks like there is only one thole on the starboard side for every other thwart. But, when studying the top view the port side tholes can be seen on the alternating thwarts winding up with an 8 oared boat.
30_ft_Pinnace_1800 for_the_Commissioners_of_the_Navy_RMG_J0863.png
Below is a contract some folks might find helpful or at least interesting.

A point to note with dating is that in contracts it was often written as 7ber, 8ber, 9ber & 10ber as seen in the transcription in the attached pdf
 

Attachments

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Interesting. I've never seen 7ber etc. What did they do for first months? I'm assuming that 7ber is September. Latin numbers?

As for the types of boats, I'm building the Discovery1789. The biggest boat they could get on her is 28'. I've read Vancouver's journal many times and I made note every time he mentioned a boat. As near as I can figure there was four boats. A launch, a yawl and two cutter(large and small). Vancouver never refers to a pinnace but his botanist Menzies does. I think one of the midshipmen did also. I keep telling myself to compare the dates when Menzies took out the "pinnace" with what Vancouver said he took out that day. I'm rambling. So, the yawl could be either clinker or carvel depending on when or where it was built. I made mine carvel as, at that time I didn't know they came in clinker. If you don't mind me cluttering up your thread I'll post pictures. Maybe you can tell me if I got close.
 
Hi Don
Yawls changed to carvel built at different times. Points from Lavery--- For example, in 1769 those on board frigates involved in Channel work were to be "of clench work of the cutter kind" and those for foreign service were carvel built (from the public record office or PRO and RMG) . Another example from the PRO is that in 1702 yawls were to be built "after the manner of a Deal yawl in all respects, except the clinker work." For 1789 my guess is a yawl would be carvel built as you have done. If you want to post photos please feel free as they may lead to more discussions/comments on how boats were actually built which would be great.
Allan
 
The 1st cutter and launch for Constellation I built are detailed in my build-log starting at post #40.
Since I'm working than a larger scale than many builds here, my boats are about 6 inches long (15cm).
I make the forms of balsa, stood up on a block of pine. This build-board is narrower than the width of the forms so as I build, I have access under the planking for clamping, rubber-bands, etc.
The forms are cut shy of the lines to allow for the thickness of the ribs. The keel, stern-post w/transom, and stem are all glued together.
Ribs are sheet bass (lime) cut into strips the width required. I dip these in ammonia and bend them over the form using rubber bands to pull them into reverse curves. I glue them to the forms only at their ends, above the sheer, with PVA. Then I glue the keel assembly onto the block and the ribs.
Planking goes on as normal, carvel or clinker. When done, the ribs, stem, and transom are cut to free the boat from the block and forms. In case a rib stuck to a form, being balsa, it will usually give before the rib. Typically more ribs are installed between the ones already in place; then I put in interior details such as seat clamps, floor boards, seats, rub rails, oar notches, etc. Some interior spots get painted before something like floor boards go in and block access to them.
The hand-built boats are the center two, the rest are 3D modeled and printed.
con20240113a.jpg
 
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Hi Navis
I started this thread with the hopes of giving ideas on building a ship's boat for both scratch and kit builders. Please help me out here as I have no idea what your photo has to do with how to build a ship's boat. Thanks

Allan
 
Planking - I measure the distance from the top of the frame to the keel at midships along station (0). The bottom planking strakes were about 7 to 8 inches broad on average so I then divide that number by 8 to find the number of strakes needed. The number of strakes obviously must be an even number so I then adjust the width of the planks accordingly. In the example below from the contemporary plan ZAZ7344 at RMG of a 29 foot long boat shows 9 planks that average about 8.5 inches broad. Some are as small as 7.25" while the landing strake and garboard are broader in this case.


I start planking with either the garboard or upper strake. If there is any variation in my planks breadths as I go up I can adjust the last strake accordingly. There are plusses and minuses to each starting point so I leave to each builder to find what suits them best. In any case it is a really bad idea to start from both the upper strake and garboard and work towards each other. The planks are tapered in breadth and spiled or pre-bent the same as is done on the full size ship. All strakes end at the rabbet forward and sternpost and transom aft. I soak the planks in water for an hour or so then clamp it to the framing and let it dry. Once dry I glue it in place. The bottom planking is only a little over one inch thick on longboats and less than an inch thick on pinnaces and cutters so very easy to work when wet. I tend to go with planking that is about 50% thicker so I have enough material to sand to the proper thickness once all planking is done. I predominantly use carpenter's glue but when laying down a plank will sometimes use a dot of CA on every 3rd or 4th frame so it will hold more quickly. Care needs to be taken not to get any glue between a frame and the plug. If I see that some glue does get onto the plug I clean it with water if PVA or acetone if CA.
Let this dry for a minute then run a scalpel blade between the frame and plug to be sure they are not stuck together.
Longboat cross section with planks.JPG
The photo below shows the first two strakes of planking on a launch for a 36 gun frigate.
Launch Framing 2.JPG
7 Planking in place, not sanded.JPG
The below photo is a launch model at 1:48. The frames have been cut from the board then will be cut to the top of the upper strake. The frames are snipped near the building board and then the scary part comes. Gently maneuver the hull so it pops off the plug. Sometimes it takes a little persuasion, but I have not yet had one stuck badly enough to have to tear it off with damage and start again.

Removed from plug.jpg


Allan
 
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My basic resource for building HMS Surprise was the book "The Frigate Surprise" by Brian Lavery and Geoff Hunt. I suggested that my 2 sons buy me the book as a gift and I ended up with copy number 165 of a limited edition of 250 signed by both authors. I shudder to think what it cost but it's a great book full of very useful information.
The book includes drawings for the ship's boats which are a 28' launch, 2 x 25' cutters, a 26' pinnace and an 18' jolly boat.
My build has the launch and the pinnace stored on the waist beams with the launch displayed as being hoisted with 4 tackles, the cutters on quarter davits and the jolly boat on stern davits.

View attachment 450834
 
My basic resource for building HMS Surprise was the book "The Frigate Surprise" by Brian Lavery and Geoff Hunt. I suggested that my 2 sons buy me the book as a gift and I ended up with copy number 165 of a limited edition of 250 signed by both authors. I shudder to think what it cost but it's a great book full of very useful information.
You are indeed lucky to have such a treasureExclamation-Mark Does the book include boat scantlings and any information on how to actually build a model ship's boat that would add anything helpful to this topic? Many thanks for any building information you can add.
Allan
 
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