Chaperon 1884 Steamer by Model Shipways, 1:48 Scale [COMPLETED BUILD]

With the planking done on the main deck I was able to attach the main deck structures. These required some slight tweaking to conform to the planked deck but nothing major. I continue to try to look ahead to factor in the impact of the 1/32” additional thickness of the deck planking. So far I think it will be pretty manageable. I added a couple of posters to entry walls just for fun. The “Chaperon” lettering on each side of the rear walls was challenging but especially since the machine printing lightly engraved to the wood was off. I used red and black Sharpies after painting the walls white.
After planking the main deck I decided to also plank the boiler deck and have been working on that during the week. I also started to prepare the structures, mostly walls for the boiler deck. Lots of battens to secure to the walls. All 1/32” square. A bit tedious but once you get your methodology down the repetition is not too bad. I’ll post pictures of the walls when done. 1C01FDBE-EB5E-45BA-8121-1A560EDB7BE1.jpegA65EEF65-0687-4581-B127-6A52F4FA5CA6.jpegF82E9479-59FC-4830-98CA-C0A7EB84688B.jpegE4D7B07F-07D7-438B-A7A9-DB6F031A5A2A.jpegAB04B8AB-3861-419F-A34D-370843E5E5E4.jpeg
 
I finished the boiler deck planking and related structures this past week and installed them. Bending the cabins was a bit tricky. I read on another log a suggestion to add card stock to the areas requiring bending. I did this and it helped tremendously. Strongly suggest doing this on all these bends. The kit provides jigs to assist the bend but the added support of the card stock ensures all will stay together during this process. Also, you will likely need to deepen the initial laser cuts at the bends as they are not deep enough to allow the wood to bend without breaking. A couple of pics of the boiler deck as it stands now. The front staircase is not attached as I want to wait until I fit the hurricane deck before securing it to assure the alignment. The side staircase is also attached after the hurricane deck goes on. The instructions suggest securing the front stairs when the boiler deck structure is added but I think it best to wait. E934DF05-2604-4430-BD8A-2C9D15533749.jpegDDCC37EB-2C20-451D-8473-F555131EC47C.jpeg
 
Last week I worked on completing the hurricane deck and over the weekend secured it to the structure and added the stationeries. I haven’t trimmed down the stationeries yet as I want to test fit the railings first. The stationeries are all to be 1/4” length. I have seen other modelers use many choices for the roofs. Some paint it black, some put a thin layer of material used on model airplanes and some have used very fine sandpaper. All looked fine but I chose to use a thin black construction paper to simulate the tar paper used on the Chaperon. I think it came out fine. Front view shows upper staircase installed and the smoke stack covers attached to the boiler. This project continues to be fun and challenging.4B20C34A-366B-4CE2-BF07-0A274E7836AA.jpeg C7BC0B85-CD52-4A7B-A8AE-E6EDB7974A2A.jpegD46C6143-8AC8-4F85-B904-6D6E1B9A2EFE.jpeg
 
I failed to post some of the work required to bent the wood for the fronts and backs of the structures on the boiler deck. The kit supplies jigs for each bend required and there are two on the boiler deck and one on the Texas structure. I did all these together and have some pics of the Texas jig and results. I the laser lines for the bends are not deep enough to move the wood without having it crack so it will be important to use your knife to deepen these to allow for an easy bending. The instructions are helpful for this step. A needle nose pliers is required to start the bending. I started with the end and worked my way back. The bending was done with pliers and by hand. I then used the jig to get the full bend to form.3452A174-0F62-4CD4-A702-D85A8469055B.jpegC793D2C3-C03D-4237-9D4F-16A72FD3051D.jpeg I also strongly recommend adding card stock to the back of the area that will be bent. This helped keep everything together and adds support. The card stock is not visible once you attach the structures. I used white so it would blend in easily as all interior structures are painted white.

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I failed to post some of the work required to bent the wood for the fronts and backs of the structures on the boiler deck. The kit supplies jigs for each bend required and there are two on the boiler deck and one on the Texas structure. I did all these together and have some pics of the Texas jig and results. I the laser lines for the bends are not deep enough to move the wood without having it crack so it will be important to use your knife to deepen these to allow for an easy bending. The instructions are helpful for this step. A needle nose pliers is required to start the bending. I started with the end and worked my way back. The bending was done with pliers and by hand. I then used the jig to get the full bend to form.View attachment 261191View attachment 261192 I also strongly recommend adding card stock to the back of the area that will be bent. This helped keep everything together and adds support. The card stock is not visible once you attach the structures. I used white so it would blend in easily as all interior structures are painted white.

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Here is one of the bent Texas sides.
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This week I assembled the skylight, added the paper roof and trim. This very straightforward per instructions. It took a day for gluing/curing, one day for papering and trim.
I also completed the Texas structure and roof. The Texas structure was pretty similar to the boiler deck structures: battens, doors and painting. I had already completed the pilot house. After doing a bit more reading on the ship I decided to remove the front window and add a sun block and breast board. Apologies for the lines in the way but I added the cord for hold down now per instructions. This will be hard to do later.
Tonight I will attach the Texas to the roof and the Texas roof to the Texas. Tomorrow I will glue down the pilot house.
Starting to build the stair cases for the Texas deck. This looks to be a challenge as the structure is not very sturdy looking. Also will start to attach the railing details tomorrow as well. Will post pics of that work during the week. 4E71D5D3-7EA6-4526-BA31-68BE93584A61.jpeg8F1609A7-28C5-4673-9975-611260E88536.jpegCBCC0825-092C-4BCD-ADFA-15CC3237C1A1.jpegBE4C6AD1-1EA2-43C4-9615-E3DECE14DB54.jpeg
 
Haven’t updated the log in a bit. The skylight, Texas and pilot house are now secured to the hurricane deck. The two strips of wood extending in the pic will match up to the staircase. While I have added the brass trim to the pilot house and Texas, I will wait for the hurricane deck trim until I have added the structures to these decks. These include the staircases, bell horse, stove pipes, chicken coop, and trusses. E67F2E17-5FF5-405A-B65F-26EC6C7C47BE.jpeg
 

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Adding the structures to the hurricane deck was pretty straightforward. The trusses are made from wood parts supplied in kit along with brass made into the hog truss. I debated for a while whether to use the white line supplied in the kit or use actual wire for accuracy. I decided to stay with the supplied line as it really didn’t look out of place on the ship. Building and adding the staircase to the pilot house has probably been the most challenging step so far. This structure is very flimsy and you will need to take your time securing it to the deck and pilot house platform. I also decided to locate the ship’s bell on the Texas roof vs the skylight roof. While this may not be historically accurate it made more sense to me to have it tied into the pilot house and be in a position where it could be heard better. Captain’s choice here! With all the items in place now I added the trim brass and to the hurricane deck and trimmed the posts to appropriate length. I am glad I left them long as this made the process much easier to do. The loose lines at the rear of the ship relate to the rear trusses and will be secured once the supports are fit. This step is done in conjunction with the paddle wheel attachment. So now it’s on to the paddle wheel assembly and the related supports. 26EA8945-A747-4957-B339-66C52DFD5AB4.jpegC6A5E32A-62A8-41D0-9889-105158AA5466.jpeg
 
This week I worked on the paddle wheel. It is important to follow the guidance on setting up the location of the wheel frames on the ship. That way you can ensure the full wheel looks the way you want it to on the ship. Spacing guidance for the wheel is provided but there is plenty of flexibility of you want to see a specific look as to how the wheel sits on the ship. I did use a couple of jigs to maintain spacing for the supports while I built the paddles. This step needs patience to allow the 3 boards
of each paddle to set and remain secure before going on to the next paddle. Clips helped here. I decided to stain the full wheel the same “Red Barn” color as the deck. A little touch up on stain and then it’s time to install on the ship. E1363509-3E5F-4CDC-AF92-813813B07E7D.jpeg3A16E47E-EC43-4E7C-B83B-483D70BAB3D1.jpeg
 
Sinds my last visit, you made a nice progress, Barry. A lot of fine details and now the eye catching paddle wheel! Looks very good! I got a deja-vu ........ :)
Regards, Peter
 
Sinds my last visit, you made a nice progress, Barry. A lot of fine details and now the eye catching paddle wheel! Looks very good! I got a deja-vu ........ :)
Regards, Peter
Thanks Peter. This has been a very enjoyable build. Lots of very different operations and while the size of the ship is big it is easy to work with fittings and details.
 
Well the paddle wheel and supports are on the ship. The supports were a bit tricky to fit and it is important to make them longer than the plans so you have some play with them and to ensure you get the right angle when fitted.
Also mocked up the two smoke stacks. The paper form for the stack crowns was not long enough for either of my two stacks and required one more section to be included to achieve the right fit. Keep
an eye on this. The rest of the stacks were straightforward. Just remember to drill all holes and add eyelets where needed at this time. I think it’s easier than trying to drill them when the stacks have been glued in our place. 02A2BAA3-7D93-4293-862C-12F70DCE74C9.jpeg
 
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