Constructo 1799 Enterprise help

[Pathfinder65]

Planking “light bulb” moment.

I was looking for a better way to “clamp” the 2nd planks. My post #120 shows one of my “methods”. I think this is a better solution and can be done quickly.

There are now two points of contacts for each rubber band and the holding pressure on the plank is better.

 

[Peglegreg]

G'day pathfinder
Ive got a few question for you. Did you bend the 2nd planks before you put them on the hull. If you did, how did you do it?
Did you WET the planks first before bending. If you did, was the planks still wet?
There are many more thing I must know before I can tell why they are not sticking. These are a few of the main ones.
I hope either I or someone can help you, I know this is very frustrating for you. You have to remember, we all have gone through these nightmares, but we are still here. Hope that your answer to this question will come very soon for you.
Havagooday
Gteg

 

[Pathfinder65]

G'day pathfinder
Ive got a few question for you. Did you bend the 2nd planks before you put them on the hull. If you did, how did you do it?
Did you WET the planks first before bending. If you did, was the planks still wet?
There are many more thing I must know before I can tell why they are not sticking. These are a few of the main ones.
I hope either I or someone can help you, I know this is very frustrating for you. You have to remember, we all have gone through these nightmares, but we are still here. Hope that your answer to this question will come very soon for you.
Havagooday
Gteg

I’ve settled on the following method.

Measure and test fit the plank. I press a piece of card stock against the stem. Run my finger nail up and down the card stock to make a impression of the “curve” that needs to be transferred to that part of the plank. I fit the plank and hold it with 3M tape and use it as a pattern to run a pencil line from stem to stern. I remove the plank and brush on a liberal amount of wood glue on the hull, stem to stern. I place the plank on a piece of wax paper and also brush on a liberal amount of wood glue.

I position the plank and use a very damp cloth to wipe off the excess glue and to work the plank into place. I use enough pressure on the cloth to force exessive glue out from beneath the plank. Rubbing from stem to stern with the damp cloth seems aid in bending the plank and make it conform to the curvature of the hull.

Hmm, a long explanation from a novice model boat builder. I’ve browsed the Forum and have found a lot of helpful hints and hope that some of my “methods” will aid another novice builder.

 

[Pathfinder65]

Planking:

Plank fitting to stem. Card stock impressions.


Transferring impressions to plank

 

[Peglegreg]

G'day pathfinder
Hmmmm, I can see what you are trying to do, but your method is not exactly correct.
Looking at the 2nd planking material, I guess it's about 1mm or .8mm thick.
Working on this assumption, I would say that you have to bend the plank to match the curvature BEFORE even he try to glue it.
BTW what glue are you using to glue the planks. Some glue don't like moisture and the damp rag might be enough to cause the problem.
Do you have a soldering iron? If so, place the handle in a vice, and only use the HOT casing of the iron, NOT the tip. Get some 2nd planks and slowly heat up the area that needs bending and press down until it bends.

OR If you have a steam iron you can use it also. The above photos shows how the planks should be before glueing.
I would use either contact adhesive or CA (superglue) glues. NOT PVA in any circumstance.
Hope this will help you
Havagooday and happymodeling
Greg

 

[Pathfinder65]

G'day pathfinder
Hmmmm, I can see what you are trying to do, but your method is not exactly correct.
Looking at the 2nd planking material, I guess it's about 1mm or .8mm thick.
Working on this assumption, I would say that you have to bend the plank to match the curvature BEFORE even he try to glue it.
BTW what glue are you using to glue the planks. Some glue don't like moisture and the damp rag might be enough to cause the problem.
Do you have a soldering iron? If so, place the handle in a vice, and only use the HOT casing of the iron, NOT the tip. Get some 2nd planks and slowly heat up the area that needs bending and press down until it bends.
View attachment 37862
OR If you have a steam iron you can use it also. The above photos shows how the planks should be before glueing.
I would use either contact adhesive or CA (superglue) glues. NOT PVA in any circumstance.
Hope this will help you
Havagooday and happymodeling
Greg

Hi Greg,

Thank you for the advice. I will give that a try.

 

[Peglegreg]

Good luck

 

[Pathfinder65]

Hi Greg,

I’ve tried the soldering iron plank bending. It took some experimenting but I did manage to get some good bends.

I didn’t try the steam iron method. There were a lot of objections from SWMBO when I asked to use hers.

 

[Peglegreg]

Hi Greg,

I’ve tried the soldering iron plank bending. It took some experimenting but I did manage to get some good bends.

I didn’t try the steam iron method. There were a lot of objections from SWMBO when I asked to use hers.

G'day mate
I assume SWMBO (she who must be obeyed) is your wife. My wife told me to use the old one, until I bought an electric plank bender from eBay.

It works very well and I can bend planks up to 14 mm thick (Very slowly and a lot of TLC after soaking the planks in ammonia) with it.
Havagoodone mate
Greg

 

[Pathfinder65]

Hi Greg,

Yes indeed SWMBO is my wife. (SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed)

Is the wattage of the soldering iron important?

 

[Peglegreg]

Hi Greg,

Yes indeed SWMBO is my wife. (SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed)

Is the wattage of the soldering iron important?

The wattage, I think is universal but the voltage is what you have to look for.
I got mine from a site in Hungry, and it was 220 volts which matches Australian voltage of 240.
Just check and ask questions.
I think I paid about aus$65 including postage for mine about 2 or 3 years ago.
All the best with your SWMBO when you asked her about if you can get one. I assume, you are like me. I always ask my admiral if I can get some 'toys' for my hobby when I buy it.
Havagooday mate Greg

 

[Pathfinder65]

Planking:

2nd planking on Hull is done. Some filling and sanding is required to finish up. It was quite the learning process, future builds will benefit from all the false starts and mistakes. Overall I’m satisfied with my first endeavor.

 

[Uwek]

Planking:

2nd planking on Hull is done. Some filling and sanding is required to finish up. It was quite the learning process, future builds will benefit from all the false starts and mistakes. Overall I’m satisfied with my first endeavor.
]

Very well done.....it is major step when you had reached the finished planking of the hull.
And you will see, that after sanding she will come out even more beauty.....great performance

 

[zoly99sask]

Planking:

2nd planking on Hull is done. Some filling and sanding is required to finish up. It was quite the learning process, future builds will benefit from all the false starts and mistakes. Overall I’m satisfied with my first endeavor.

View attachment 38435

This is a really good planking for the first,well done!

Zoltan

 

[Pathfinder65]

The next step:

Gun Ports:

I'm struggling to come up with a method of marking the gunport locations. I've tried the methods I was going to use in my earlier posts but decided there was to much variation in accurately marking the gunport locations.

My latest attempt seems to work, but I welcome any and all suggestions of how to go about this.

I made a small jig to place over a the deck template, the base of the jig fits over the gun carriage location and the push pin is approximately the center of the cannon. Pressure on the push pin leaves an indentation in the plank and provides the starting hole for my small drill. Once the hole was drilled I placed a 12mm nail through the hole to pierce the center of a 11mm by 11mm jig of a gunport outline taped to the outside of the hull.



My next step will be to drill holes through the hull by drilling through the inside four corners of the template. A tedious method but it seems to work.

Once again I welcome any and all critiques and alternate methods.

I think this my last major hurdle. The rest of the build appears to be a lot simpler.

 

[Sgtmik]

Have you tried Making a large template for the outboard side of the hull and see if it matches your inboard template?
Good luck.

 

[Pathfinder65]

Have you tried Making a large template for the outboard side of the hull and see if it matches your inboard template?
Good luck.

Hi Mike,
I’m planning to do that sometime this week. We have company coming for the upcoming Holiday weekend, so I have to spend some time making sure that my other hobby is operational. I’m also building a indoor large scale layout in 1.20 scale.

 

[Pathfinder65]

Template:
Had a little time this afternoon to work on Mikes suggestion.

I used my Office Pro inkjet to copy the side view of the Enterprise unto two 81/2X11 inch Kodac picture blanks.



I then using the two “photos” as masters I copied their content to tracing paper.



My next step will be to fit the tracing to the hull. I’m curious to find out how the tracing gun port location will line up with my effort from post # 135

 

[Pathfinder65]

Gun Port Template Part two:2

As per Mikes suggestion I made the second template.

But I almost used the the tracing I had made previously to mark the gun port locations,(post #138). This morning I decided to look at the rigging plan and make a template of the side view of the hull shown on the plan.

I spent some time looking at the two tracings trying to figure out why the gun port cutouts looked different. Then the "light bulb moment occurred".The first tracing was a copy of the cutaway interior looking at the Port side. The tracing made from the rigging plan was a side view of the full Starboard side.




Mike, thanks for the suggestion.


Another lesson learned.

 

[Pathfinder65]

Gun Port Template Part 3:

I had some time this morning to test the template I made yesterday. The posted pictures point out a major flaw.



The red arrows under the gun port outlines point at the 12mm nail pushed trough the hull to mark the center of the cannonade as per the cannonade location on the deck plan.



The second photo shows the small gun port template that I made previously. It is also centered on one of the 12mm nails pushed through the hull. If I were to adjust the paper template to match the deck plan all the cannonades would be pointing up at an angle. I think there might be a Scale/Ratio problem with some parts of the ship plans.

I think I will use my original method of marking the gun port locations using the small plastic card template.