Cutter Alert 1/48 cross section

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Hello Dan,

She looks wonderful. I must say that you have done a lot of work on her so far and I believe that it didn't really take you a long time. I look forward to your next update.

Raymond
 
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Thanks to everyone.
Another small update:

I cut the planks from a maple piece. I want to leave most of the section unplanked and decided to just plank the area in the center of the deck.
The caulking is done by the "2B Pencil" method. It was easy to do and looks good.

4CD1836B-4890-4E92-9193-7BC0E8A70720.jpeg

After sanding and a coat of oil:

81B96F1A-170F-4B24-AA69-C67D4B14D58B.jpeg

I also did the hatchway to the hold... at least a part of it. I should have planned the cross section to include all of the hatchway. Now it is "hanging in mid air" unsupported. The same will be true for the main hatchway and grating on the main deck :confused:
Can't change that now, so I will just continue and see how it turns out...


Anyway, I cut the pieces for the hatchway and the lap joints on the small table saw. The wood I used is pink ivory. I bought a small piece years ago to turn pens and thought it would be cool to represent the red color with it:

IMG_1690.jpg

The rabbet for the grating was cut by hand with an Xacto knife and a small chisel. The sides are tilted 5° but it's difficult to see it on the model.
According to AOTS the rabbet was only cut in the longer pieces of the frame (coamings). A batten was attached to the short pieces of the frame to support the grating. I will try to cut a rod with only 0,5mm wide sides...

IMG_1692.jpg

After clean up with sandpaper and oiled the color of the wood really turned red(ish):

IMG_1693.jpg
 
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I just realised (reading Uwe's build log of the Triton) that I forgot to treenail the thickstuff planks and the mast step. :mad:
Now what? Guess I have to take off the lower deck again.... Sick
 
Joined
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Messages
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Thanks to everyone.
Another small update:

I cut the planks from a maple piece. I want to leave most of the section unplanked and decided to just plank the area in the center of the deck.
The caulking is done by the "2B Pencil" method. It was easy to do and looks good.

View attachment 161285

After sanding and a coat of oil:

View attachment 161286

I also did the hatchway to the hold... at least a part of it. I should have planned the cross section to include all of the hatchway. Now it is "hanging in mid air" unsupported. The same will be true for the main hatchway and grating on the main deck :confused:
Can't change that now, so I will just continue and see how it turns out...


Anyway, I cut the pieces for the hatchway and the lap joints on the small table saw. The wood I used is pink ivory. I bought a small piece years ago to turn pens and thought it would be cool to represent the red color with it:

View attachment 161340

The rabbet for the grating was cut by hand with an Xacto knife and a small chisel. The sides are tilted 5° but it's difficult to see it on the model.
According to AOTS the rabbet was only cut in the longer pieces of the frame (coamings). A batten was attached to the short pieces of the frame to support the grating. I will try to cut a rod with only 0,5mm wide sides...

View attachment 161341

After clean up with sandpaper and oiled the color of the wood really turned red(ish):

View attachment 161342
Hello Dan,

Do not worry about the minor miscalculation. The reason I love scratch building is because we always learn something from one model to the next.
Also, your use of timbers and use of Danish oil makes your model very attractive. Keep going Dan, before you know it you'll have it displayed on a mantle or shelf and be able to walk around a saying, "Yes!!! I did that!!!"

Raymond
 
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Messages
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... I love scratch building is because we always learn something from one model to the next.
..."

Raymond

Absolutely true! First thing I learned today was "never rush anything" and "do not use superglue again". :D
I took off the deck by soaking the white glue joints with a drop of water for about 5min and a gentle pull on the deck beams.
The hardest part was to get the pillars loose because I superglued them. Cautious

IMG_1695.jpg

I treenailed the deck planks by pressing small indents with an awl and "filling them up" with a sharp pencil.

Now I have to go through my books and build logs in the forum to check the treenail pattern for the thickstuff planks. Then the deck will be glued back in place and the build continues.
 
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Absolutely true! First thing I learned today was "never rush anything" and "do not use superglue again". :D
I took off the deck by soaking the white glue joints with a drop of water for about 5min and a gentle pull on the deck beams.
The hardest part was to get the pillars loose because I superglued them. Cautious

View attachment 161375

I treenailed the deck planks by pressing small indents with an awl and "filling them up" with a sharp pencil.

Now I have to go through my books and build logs in the forum to check the treenail pattern for the thickstuff planks. Then the deck will be glued back in place and the build continues.
Outstanding Buddy. You are a Rockstar.
 

Uwek

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Absolutely true! First thing I learned today was "never rush anything" and "do not use superglue again". :D
I took off the deck by soaking the white glue joints with a drop of water for about 5min and a gentle pull on the deck beams.
The hardest part was to get the pillars loose because I superglued them. Cautious

View attachment 161375

I treenailed the deck planks by pressing small indents with an awl and "filling them up" with a sharp pencil.

Now I have to go through my books and build logs in the forum to check the treenail pattern for the thickstuff planks. Then the deck will be glued back in place and the build continues.
For the same reason I am usually using only water based wood glue ;)
 
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"Quick" repair of my errors:
1. Treenailing the planks and mast step in the hold:

30BE06D8-3AF9-43A2-AB4B-101064255FD5.jpeg

06D14EE6-2AFA-41A7-BFD0-499C358C054A.jpeg

D0473876-20B4-4DD6-91B6-7AF5CE2957B1.jpeg

Taking off the frame of the hatchway. I glued it on top of the planks instead of on top of the beams and carlings:

1F3D3DC5-3094-463F-AE4A-6BFE462820DD.jpeg

Cutting the planks:

87E6FB61-B515-480A-B1C1-B6F2E60AD22B.jpeg

ABEE84D5-91B6-4835-9A5D-3410A6D70397.jpeg

Reglued the frame in place:

B807A6A9-A320-492B-ACDC-903A4C926CB5.jpeg

3F351FA6-3F42-4C2C-8A6F-7B341A724E52.jpeg
 
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The main deck clamps are installed. I simplified them by making one piece instaed of two.
752B6748-A498-430A-AF84-35439A5CEF64.jpeg
DFF8C697-9C3E-47F4-A465-82310BE2991C.jpeg

The deckbeams are cut and dryfitted. I was happy that they are aligned AND level. I imagined this step to be harder than it actually was :cool:

35B3A816-AD3D-4D07-9A77-FFA9E4BC974A.jpeg
9070F30F-0B02-4B85-AEFA-140725909125.jpeg

I'm planning to cut the notches for the carlings on the plan then bent them to shape. Only then I will build the sailroom to be able to measure the height from the model. Hope this works...


Thanks to everyone for Your motivating words
 
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Hello Dan,
You have done such an amazing job on your cross section. You are an outstanding modeler. Never underestimate yourself. Remember, " Where there is a will, there is a way."

Raymond
 
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Thank You Raymand for Your kind words and everybody who is following along.
An outstanding modeler sounds good but I'm far from it :p. Although with every little succes we gain confidence.
This evening's work consisted of cutting the notches for the carlings and the carlings themselves.

To cut the notches I built a small vise with angled jaws. The two blocks are glued to a base and hold the workpiece tight enough to mill it.

E792A149-2A56-4A30-A5F6-81FDB5DF1C7E.jpeg
54AB42E7-34FA-4AA7-AC8C-5C291F7F0EED.jpeg

Then I test fitted the beams and carlings on my plan (the beams are temporarily fixed with rubber cement). The notches are marked for the ledges and ready to be milled.

I marked the required width (approximated for simplicity) so I don't accidently cut with the wrong diameter...

926D50F7-2EC7-4487-AB4E-AF5EE5A10F4E.jpeg

79606AFE-5FFE-4F43-881F-26E2F5962DEE.jpeg

I'm surprised at how well it went to cut the notches and sand the carlings to the correct angle of the notches. The result is visually the same as to cut them by hand with chisels but a lot faster (once the "vise" was ready).

I will chisel the ones that remain visible.
 
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Thank You.
Progress is slow as I had to redo several carlings. The lodging knees are shaped and temporarily fitted:

5097AAE5-17D1-49E5-BD8B-585FC4BECBCF.jpeg

testing the width of the ledges:

671755F3-8703-4D95-81AB-9E673D3782B1.jpeg

The mast partners and chocks where challenging.

F24D7904-8CB2-48A1-9201-1E0237567DF1.jpeg

Nothing is glued yet, only lightly with rubber cement to test the fit.

7242D1A4-56EA-4727-9D8D-5B47E7FA6878.jpeg
 
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Beautiful execution Dan. She looks better every time you do something to her. Looking forward to your next update.

Ray
 
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After a little pause I can finally continue work on the cross section. After all it has to be finished when I receive the Trident Alert :p

Added a few planks on the lower deck for the sailroom:

IMG_1934.jpg

And the main deck framework is done, glued and sanded. Now I can start work on the sailroom...


IMG_1935.jpg

I rounded the corners of the main Hatchway frame:

IMG_1938.jpg






IMG_1937.jpg

Still have to apply oil to the sanded areas to bring everything back to the same tone.
 
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After a little pause I can finally continue work on the cross section. After all it has to be finished when I receive the Trident Alert :p

Added a few planks on the lower deck for the sailroom:

View attachment 172771

And the main deck framework is done, glued and sanded. Now I can start work on the sailroom...


View attachment 172772

I rounded the corners of the main Hatchway frame:

View attachment 172774






View attachment 172773

Still have to apply oil to the sanded areas to bring everything back to the same tone.
Hello Dan
it's looking beautiful Thumbsup
You better hurry because the alert is coming soon;):p
 
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