Thanks Eric.
Egyptian Seagoing Ship “Byblos” - 1:32 [COMPLETED BUILD]
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After working with my “second” attempt I realized that:
So I decided to go for my third attempt .......
- The choice about using two equal thick planks for the two hulls (interior and exterior) was not the best.....The channels left no wood to work with so the lineal holes drilling was a disaster. In conclusion I‘lol keeP the two hulls but the interior will be in 3.2 mm an the exterior will be in 1.2 mm.
- The “forms” I was using for the planks were not accurate according with the documents I found. Even though we need to create as much “lineal” contact between planks to create “more“ resistance and strength, I was working with “curves” and should be with straight lines....
So I decided to go for my third attempt .......
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With the 3.2 mm I was able to work the channels an lineal holes.....
This face is the one that at the end will be hidden....
Finally I was able to put it in the mold to configure the curve and forms...
It is time to start with the laterals...... it will continue
This face is the one that at the end will be hidden....
Finally I was able to put it in the mold to configure the curve and forms...
It is time to start with the laterals...... it will continue
Remember this picture?...... We will be using it again.....
Here I am again.....
After doing mu research and many attempts, I realized the the Egyptians were right . The sides planking with planks 3.2 mm thick was so tough. So I took the image above and went to “copy” more or less the distribution and..........BINGO!!!!! They fitted.... But before I needed to have somehow, the way I could fixed the planks without attaching them to the mold. Let’s remember that the frames were something that were installed after many tasks so the planks needed to “stay” there by themselves.
I built a couple of pieces.....
Longer that it was needed and I glued them to the base an to the mold. The idea was to glue the planks to these pieces.... Let’s see.....
Geometrically the planks fitted right. Just one “line” to go and it will be finished.......Just exterior sanding. Once the other side is finished we will be able to take the mold out and start to work in the holes and channels.
Really was difficult to keep the planks in its place. Wood glue, presses and waits 20-24 hours per plank...
Here I am again.....
After doing mu research and many attempts, I realized the the Egyptians were right . The sides planking with planks 3.2 mm thick was so tough. So I took the image above and went to “copy” more or less the distribution and..........BINGO!!!!! They fitted.... But before I needed to have somehow, the way I could fixed the planks without attaching them to the mold. Let’s remember that the frames were something that were installed after many tasks so the planks needed to “stay” there by themselves.
I built a couple of pieces.....
Longer that it was needed and I glued them to the base an to the mold. The idea was to glue the planks to these pieces.... Let’s see.....
Geometrically the planks fitted right. Just one “line” to go and it will be finished.......Just exterior sanding. Once the other side is finished we will be able to take the mold out and start to work in the holes and channels.
Really was difficult to keep the planks in its place. Wood glue, presses and waits 20-24 hours per plank...
Here I am......
After taking the “mold” out, the result wasn’t the one I expected..... the hull lost its forms and it looked like a “bath tube”
. So I took my time to analyze how to solve it.
In this picture...
In the magnifiers, there is a rope called “HOGGING-TRUSS” and as its name says..... is for keeping the hull bottom curvature. Once it is installed, I guess, I’ll be able to bring the hull to its real form. Also I learned that the frames had their function too....
In the way they are tide to the planks, they should work in the other way around......
ONCE THS HOGGING-TRUSS IS STRESSED, THE FRAMES FUNCTION IS TO KEEP THE FORMS IN THE HULL. TOO MUCH STRES IN THE HOGGING-TRUSS COULD DEFORM THE HULL.
In the mid term I decided to use the false frames to keep the hull forms....
This also taught me that the planking needed to be reinforced since to many Stresses in the process.....
Next chapter we will see how this little issue was solved.........
After taking the “mold” out, the result wasn’t the one I expected..... the hull lost its forms and it looked like a “bath tube”
. So I took my time to analyze how to solve it.In this picture...
In the magnifiers, there is a rope called “HOGGING-TRUSS” and as its name says..... is for keeping the hull bottom curvature. Once it is installed, I guess, I’ll be able to bring the hull to its real form. Also I learned that the frames had their function too....
In the way they are tide to the planks, they should work in the other way around......
ONCE THS HOGGING-TRUSS IS STRESSED, THE FRAMES FUNCTION IS TO KEEP THE FORMS IN THE HULL. TOO MUCH STRES IN THE HOGGING-TRUSS COULD DEFORM THE HULL.
In the mid term I decided to use the false frames to keep the hull forms....
This also taught me that the planking needed to be reinforced since to many Stresses in the process.....
Next chapter we will see how this little issue was solved.........
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This is a simulation how the hull will be sewed.....
So.. it looks good.... more holes
So.. it looks good.... more holes
Now I’ll explain how the hull was reinforced.....
Instead to make the channels that were made in the bottom, I decided to simulate the same channels with some wood strips.........
Then.... We will cover them with the external planking....
Instead to make the channels that were made in the bottom, I decided to simulate the same channels with some wood strips.........
Then.... We will cover them with the external planking....
Wow this is phenominal work!! Bravo!!
Thanks a lot
Just starting. A long way to go
Advances....
My first frame!!!!
Not glue just sewed!!! ....... and it worked
Not glue just sewed!!! ....... and it worked
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I read all of your blog and the photos you attached to it, this is one of the most unique and impressive models I have seen. Well done
I read all of your blog and the photos you attached to it, this is one of the most unique and impressive models I have seen. Well done
Thanks a lot. Learning a lot
Three of nine....
Six. Three to go and I was able to take de false frame out.....
Taking the false frame out is confirming, that this way of structure was working - looking very good
Now..... all the frames in their places......planks being sewed......
This is the idea