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Endurance by OcCre 1:70

Kramer said:
Love this hack! Since the brass black didn't take, I'm just going to paint them. Probably spray paint them black when I paint the hull. I assume the ladders on the actual ship were wooden, so not sure if black is a good idea. I can always take a trip to the hardware store and get some brown spray paint and paint them brown if the black doesn't look good.
View attachment 445959

Everything else that I blackened or blued came out nice. Sanded it in a jar full of sand, just swished the parts around for a bit.
View attachment 445960

And started painting the stanchions and small stacks white. I'm not crazy about how the pueter parts come out when painted white. For my Endurance, I'm going for a look of what the ship might have looked like in it's last days before the ice broke it up. So I thought of mixing a little black with the last coat of white to give them a dingier look. Any thoughts?

View attachment 445961

Then I started looking ahead in the instructions. The last page shows OcCre seemingly painting the hull and deck furniture with Betun du Judea. I've never used this. What is it? Is it like Tung Oil? What would it do to my painted surfaces? Would it dull the white to make it look more realistic? And is it the same thing as bitumen of Judea?
Click to expand...
Nice work. For the ladders did you glue them or solder them? Am about to construct mine and just came across your post. Thx
 
KeithLyall said:
Nice work. For the ladders did you glue them or solder them? Am about to construct mine and just came across your post. Thx
Click to expand...
Thanks, Keith. I just glued them with CA. I don't have a soldering iron, but definitely want to invest in one.
 
Magic Mike said:
Kramer, very nice work on the hull, ladders and rudder. Love the paint work also! Magic Mike
Click to expand...
Thanks, Mike. It's been so long since I've worked on it. Life, you know. But hope to get back to it soon. I have to rip out and move the anchor hawsehole (I think that's what its called) because it doesn't line up with the other side. This means I'll have to do some repair work and will probably have to repaint the hull.
 
Wow! It's been over a year since I worked on the Endurance, but I'm hoping to start real soon. I needed to take a break to build the Yorktown diorama. Now I'm eager to get back to the Endurance.

Before I start making progress, I have to fix a few things and order some aftermarket parts. Also was looking for some advice...

I cut the hawesoles at different spots on the bow. Slightly off, but very noticeable. First thing I need to do is drill a new hawesole, probably on the port side (more on why the port side in a bit). Then I'll need to fill the old hole with a bung, sand and repaint the whole hull, then seal it, again. A few questions for the group:
  • I may be able to get away with sanding the hull and spot painting the filled hole. I originally spray-painted the hull with 6 coats of paint and sealed it with Minwax clear satin laquer clear coat. Any other recommendations? I'm looking for a matte finish.
  • OcCre supplied wooden belay pins. I'm thinking of painting or staining them. Would the Endurance have had wooden pins or brass? I've looked through every photo of the Endurance, even the recently released photos of it at the bottom of the sea, but can't figure out what original looks like.
  • I love some of the finishes Francois de Saint Nazaire used on his Endurance. I plan to mimic some of them (flattery to you, Francois!). He bought his 2-prop from Raboesch. It looks great. I've searched all of the US-based companies I know of and can't find a good 2-prop propeller. Anyone have any suggestions? I also thought of trying to modify the OcCre provided 3-prop, just can't figure out how to.
  • I'm going to furl the sails like Francois and use silkspan.
  • I've blackened pretty much all of the brass so the ship looks more aged. After building my Yorktown diorama, I've gotten a bit brave. I plan to set the Endurance in a scene as similar as I can to some of the pictures I've seen of her in her last days. Sails furled, ship pretty beat up, listing to port, stuck in ice.
  • I plan to replace all of the guardrails and ratlines with wire, although from pictures it looks like the bow guard rail is rope. Observations?
  • I might replace the stanchions with some I found on Cornwall, but they might look too thick and out of scale. The ones provided are pretty flimsy, but might be more to scale. Maybe I'll just paint them white like Francois, his look really nice.
  • I'm going to replace the deadeyes with ebony ones from Dry Dock, and stain or tung oil the OcCre provided blocks to make them a little darker. I'm also going to buy polyester rope for the rigging. I wanted to use Ropes of Scale but now I'm trying to find all aftermarket parts in the US. Tariffs and duties are making shipping expensive. Any preferred US-based rope companies?
Can't wait to get back into it!
 
Kramer said:
Wow! It's been over a year since I worked on the Endurance, but I'm hoping to start real soon. I needed to take a break to build the Yorktown diorama. Now I'm eager to get back to the Endurance.

Before I start making progress, I have to fix a few things and order some aftermarket parts. Also was looking for some advice...

I cut the hawesoles at different spots on the bow. Slightly off, but very noticeable. First thing I need to do is drill a new hawesole, probably on the port side (more on why the port side in a bit). Then I'll need to fill the old hole with a bung, sand and repaint the whole hull, then seal it, again. A few questions for the group:
  • I may be able to get away with sanding the hull and spot painting the filled hole. I originally spray-painted the hull with 6 coats of paint and sealed it with Minwax clear satin laquer clear coat. Any other recommendations? I'm looking for a matte finish.
  • OcCre supplied wooden belay pins. I'm thinking of painting or staining them. Would the Endurance have had wooden pins or brass? I've looked through every photo of the Endurance, even the recently released photos of it at the bottom of the sea, but can't figure out what original looks like.
  • I love some of the finishes Francois de Saint Nazaire used on his Endurance. I plan to mimic some of them (flattery to you, Francois!). He bought his 2-prop from Raboesch. It looks great. I've searched all of the US-based companies I know of and can't find a good 2-prop propeller. Anyone have any suggestions? I also thought of trying to modify the OcCre provided 3-prop, just can't figure out how to.
  • I'm going to furl the sails like Francois and use silkspan.
  • I've blackened pretty much all of the brass so the ship looks more aged. After building my Yorktown diorama, I've gotten a bit brave. I plan to set the Endurance in a scene as similar as I can to some of the pictures I've seen of her in her last days. Sails furled, ship pretty beat up, listing to port, stuck in ice.
  • I plan to replace all of the guardrails and ratlines with wire, although from pictures it looks like the bow guard rail is rope. Observations?
  • I might replace the stanchions with some I found on Cornwall, but they might look too thick and out of scale. The ones provided are pretty flimsy, but might be more to scale. Maybe I'll just paint them white like Francois, his look really nice.
  • I'm going to replace the deadeyes with ebony ones from Dry Dock, and stain or tung oil the OcCre provided blocks to make them a little darker. I'm also going to buy polyester rope for the rigging. I wanted to use Ropes of Scale but now I'm trying to find all aftermarket parts in the US. Tariffs and duties are making shipping expensive. Any preferred US-based rope companies?
Can't wait to get back into it!
Click to expand...
Hi Kramer,
Look forward to seeing your progress, and particularly if you do a diorama. Anyway in answer to some of your questions I’ll throw in my few cents. Throughout I have been trying to modify the Occre kit to be more historically accurate using images either online of from Frank Harley’s book as reference.

- Regarding painting the hull I hand painted with Vallajeo Black which looks ok. From a painting of Endurance by the ships artist it does look like a different colour below the waterline as if some form of anti fouling has been applied.
- I am pondering whether to buy brass belay pins but not fully decided on that yet. I think I may need some more than provided as I do NOT plan to use the eyelets at the base of the masts as per the kit but fashion something on the mast which will need more belay pins.
- I bought a cheap 2 blade prop from Cornwall Models in the UK. It was plastic and I was able to cut off the rounded tip of the prop to look more like the original and painted it brass.
- I plan to use silkspan sails as I used it on Endeavour to good effect as I think the supplied sails look was out of proportion. I also plan to go furled.
- I have also blackened metal parts and they look good. I have also use some brown paint to simulate rust on chains and anchors.
- I have use 0.5mm wire for the rails and I like the look much more than using thread. I bow does look like a thinner wire rather than solid railings but in this case I just used the same wire, I had bought replacement stantions and I am pleased with the result.
- Think the supplied deadeyes may be plastic but am travelling at the moment so can’t confirm. I have painted the deadeyes attached to the hull black and also attached using wire rather than twisted thread as per the Occre instructions.
- I have bought some other threads to see if better than Occre’s. The cost of Ropes of Scale was more than I am prepared to pay.

Hope that helps. I am pretty up to date with my build log which details my ongoing model updates if that is of further help.

Look forward to seeing your progress.
 
KeithLyall said:
Hi Kramer,
Look forward to seeing your progress, and particularly if you do a diorama. Anyway in answer to some of your questions I’ll throw in my few cents. Throughout I have been trying to modify the Occre kit to be more historically accurate using images either online of from Frank Harley’s book as reference.

- Regarding painting the hull I hand painted with Vallajeo Black which looks ok. From a painting of Endurance by the ships artist it does look like a different colour below the waterline as if some form of anti fouling has been applied.
- I am pondering whether to buy brass belay pins but not fully decided on that yet. I think I may need some more than provided as I do NOT plan to use the eyelets at the base of the masts as per the kit but fashion something on the mast which will need more belay pins.
- I bought a cheap 2 blade prop from Cornwall Models in the UK. It was plastic and I was able to cut off the rounded tip of the prop to look more like the original and painted it brass.
- I plan to use silkspan sails as I used it on Endeavour to good effect as I think the supplied sails look was out of proportion. I also plan to go furled.
- I have also blackened metal parts and they look good. I have also use some brown paint to simulate rust on chains and anchors.
- I have use 0.5mm wire for the rails and I like the look much more than using thread. I bow does look like a thinner wire rather than solid railings but in this case I just used the same wire, I had bought replacement stantions and I am pleased with the result.
- Think the supplied deadeyes may be plastic but am travelling at the moment so can’t confirm. I have painted the deadeyes attached to the hull black and also attached using wire rather than twisted thread as per the Occre instructions.
- I have bought some other threads to see if better than Occre’s. The cost of Ropes of Scale was more than I am prepared to pay.

Hope that helps. I am pretty up to date with my build log which details my ongoing model updates if that is of further help.

Look forward to seeing your progress.
Click to expand...
Hey Keith, I love your modifications!
I'm too far along to mimic some of your improvements, but am following your lead on some of my modifications to come.
I also don't plan on using eyelets at the base of the masts, but haven't yet figured out how I will fashion them to the masts themselves.
Where did you get your replacement stanchions?
I'm going to purchase .5mm wire for the railings, except the stern railing, which will be wood, and the deadeye chains.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the propeller, but changing it from 3 to 2 props is a must. I'm looking for a US-based company rather than UK, but I do like the Cornwall one. Not that I want to just 'buy American,' but with tariffs and customs issues now buying from overseas is more difficult and expensive.
I'm also looking to replace the cotton OcCre thread. Cotton is easier to work with than synthetic, but I don't like the fuzziness of the cotton rope, even using beezwax doesn't completely fix that. I used synthetic on my Pavel's Capt. John Smith's Shallop and I liked the look much better. Looking for a US company.
Thanks again for your reply. Very helpful!
 
Kramer said:
Hey Keith, I love your modifications!
I'm too far along to mimic some of your improvements, but am following your lead on some of my modifications to come.
I also don't plan on using eyelets at the base of the masts, but haven't yet figured out how I will fashion them to the masts themselves.
Where did you get your replacement stanchions?
I'm going to purchase .5mm wire for the railings, except the stern railing, which will be wood, and the deadeye chains.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the propeller, but changing it from 3 to 2 props is a must. I'm looking for a US-based company rather than UK, but I do like the Cornwall one. Not that I want to just 'buy American,' but with tariffs and customs issues now buying from overseas is more difficult and expensive.
I'm also looking to replace the cotton OcCre thread. Cotton is easier to work with than synthetic, but I don't like the fuzziness of the cotton rope, even using beezwax doesn't completely fix that. I used synthetic on my Pavel's Capt. John Smith's Shallop and I liked the look much better. Looking for a US company.
Thanks again for your reply. Very helpful!
Click to expand...
I bought Billings Boats stantions from Cornwall Models. Understand you wanting to buy more local and would guess Billings is available. I have attached details of the reference numbers. Not sure if those are specific to Cornwall Models website but you can at least look up for reference. Note that the Capping Stantion worked out well for the rail at the stern. Look forward to seeing your progress.

Screenshot 2025-10-19 at 15.51.45.png
 
KeithLyall said:
I bought Billings Boats stantions from Cornwall Models. Understand you wanting to buy more local and would guess Billings is available. I have attached details of the reference numbers. Not sure if those are specific to Cornwall Models website but you can at least look up for reference. Note that the Capping Stantion worked out well for the rail at the stern. Look forward to seeing your progress.

View attachment 551306
Click to expand...
Thanks, Keith. I'll check it out.
 
First off, Merry Christmas!!

I got to get back to work on my Endurance. So, the plan was, move the port side anchor chain hole down towards the keel so its in line with the starboard side hole. Then, sand the hull and repaint the whole thing. I wasn't really happy with the hull paint job anyway. I repaired hole, put a bung in the old hole as needed, sanded it and touched it up with black paint.
IMG_1267.jpg

Like I said, I sanded the whole hull with the intent of repainting it. But now I have a couple of questions. One, how important is it to apply some type of sealer to the paint job? The last paint job I did I applied a satin lacquor and I feel like the hull wasn't matte looking enough. So I was thinking of maybe not applying a finish. Those more experienced than I who have models that have passed the test of time, what do you think? And if it is important, what do you recommend?

My other question regards a possible 'happy accident'. When I finish the model I plan to put it in a diorama showing the last days of the Endurance before it was crushed and sunk. So I always wanted the model to look more weathered, not very polished. But intentionally weathered, not just a sloppy job. I want to be proud of the model I built, so I want the weathering to always remind me that they weren't mistakes, and were instead attributed to skill (some skill) and patience. So after I sanded it, this is what I got.

IMG_1268.jpgIMG_1269.jpgIMG_1270.jpgIMG_1271.jpg

I used 600 grit sandpaper. As usual, the pictures aren't great. You can see there are some spots where I got down almost to bare wood. The hull looks a lot more weathered and not as shiny, although the pictures look a bit shiny. Knowing my goal, any thoughts out there on what I should do?
 
I was also going to buy some after market blocks and belay pins. I wanted black or dark brown for the standing rigging, and something darker than the bare wood for the running rigging and belay pins. Shipping prices are quite high, so I dug around and found some old stain and tested it on some pieces. Perfect is the enemy of good enough. I think I might go with the stains.
IMG_1263.jpgIMG_1272.jpg

IMG_1265.jpgIMG_1273.jpg
 
Kramer said:
First off, Merry Christmas!!

I got to get back to work on my Endurance. So, the plan was, move the port side anchor chain hole down towards the keel so its in line with the starboard side hole. Then, sand the hull and repaint the whole thing. I wasn't really happy with the hull paint job anyway. I repaired hole, put a bung in the old hole as needed, sanded it and touched it up with black paint.
View attachment 566366

Like I said, I sanded the whole hull with the intent of repainting it. But now I have a couple of questions. One, how important is it to apply some type of sealer to the paint job? The last paint job I did I applied a satin lacquor and I feel like the hull wasn't matte looking enough. So I was thinking of maybe not applying a finish. Those more experienced than I who have models that have passed the test of time, what do you think? And if it is important, what do you recommend?

My other question regards a possible 'happy accident'. When I finish the model I plan to put it in a diorama showing the last days of the Endurance before it was crushed and sunk. So I always wanted the model to look more weathered, not very polished. But intentionally weathered, not just a sloppy job. I want to be proud of the model I built, so I want the weathering to always remind me that they weren't mistakes, and were instead attributed to skill (some skill) and patience. So after I sanded it, this is what I got.

View attachment 566367View attachment 566368View attachment 566369View attachment 566370

I used 600 grit sandpaper. As usual, the pictures aren't great. You can see there are some spots where I got down almost to bare wood. The hull looks a lot more weathered and not as shiny, although the pictures look a bit shiny. Knowing my goal, any thoughts out there on what I should do?
Click to expand...
Hi, when doing the lifeboats I sanded down in some places to the wood. I was going to repaint but then left as they were to give the used/bashed/aged look and I am pretty happy with the outcome. As such having patches of bare timber works for me as well as areas where the paint is not so shiny. Looking forward to seeing your final diorama effect. PS Merry Christmas and best wishes for 2026. Kind Rgds Keith
 
Kramer said:
I was also going to buy some after market blocks and belay pins. I wanted black or dark brown for the standing rigging, and something darker than the bare wood for the running rigging and belay pins. Shipping prices are quite high, so I dug around and found some old stain and tested it on some pieces. Perfect is the enemy of good enough. I think I might go with the stains.
View attachment 566371View attachment 566372

View attachment 566373View attachment 566374
Click to expand...
I like the staining idea; I think I will do the same.
 
Kramer said:
Hey shipmates! I started my second build, the HMS Endurance by OcCre, after completing the Albatros. I learned so much from SoS the first go around, I'm excited about this ship and adding in some of the detail I learned about by posting and following other awesome builds. It was a couple of months after I finished the Albatros that I started the Endurance, so to slow-roll into my new build, I started with the boats just to get going again. Also, the metal boat supplied by OcCre for the Albatros was very uninspiring (I understand as the Albatros is a beginner build), so I really wanted to build some nice boats. I've finished the boats and am ready to move on to the ship. Summer is not the best ship-building time, as we end up spending a lot more time outside, but I've gotten some done and am looking forward to working on it more in the fall. Here are some pictures of the Endeavor unpacked and my progress with the boats. The builders on this forum were extremely helpful with my first build, so please offer pointers and recommendations when you see me about to screw something up. Thanks shipmates! View attachment 319973View attachment 319974View attachment 319975View attachment 319976View attachment 319977
Click to expand...

Kramer said:
Planking is coming along. And while I wait for glue to dry, I've been getting a jump start on the deck furnishings.
View attachment 342851View attachment 342852
Click to expand...
Nice deck pieces
 
KeithLyall said:
Hi, when doing the lifeboats I sanded down in some places to the wood. I was going to repaint but then left as they were to give the used/bashed/aged look and I am pretty happy with the outcome. As such having patches of bare timber works for me as well as areas where the paint is not so shiny. Looking forward to seeing your final diorama effect. PS Merry Christmas and best wishes for 2026. Kind Rgds Keith
Click to expand...
Thanks Keith! After sanding, do you put anything over the paint, like lacquer or something to protect it? OR do you think that's necessary?

Another picture of my stained blocks and belay pins.
IMG_1275.jpg
 
Kramer said:
Thanks Keith! After sanding, do you put anything over the paint, like lacquer or something to protect it? OR do you think that's necessary?

Another picture of my stained blocks and belay pins.
View attachment 566542
Click to expand...
Kramer said:
Thanks Keith! After sanding, do you put anything over the paint, like lacquer or something to protect it? OR do you think that's necessary?

Another picture of my stained blocks and belay pins.
View attachment 566542
Click to expand...
Kramer, the blocks and belay pins came out nicely! Magic Mike
 
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