Fully functional realistic mini canons

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Have anyone seen this game? It seem like a great ship battle game.
Naval Action
Available on Steam for $20---search Naval Action on Steam

2016 • Game-Labs

Video game

Multiplayer Online Role-Playing Game

Windows

a battle enacted here;

Naval Action: Big Ship PVP fight (Ft. Victory&Santisima Trinidad)

Naval Action - Full Release - Beginner's Guide and Tutorial
 
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Ah.....back in the day, my old metalwork teacher made his own cast iron miniature cannon (about 4'' long) to satisfy his own slightly warped curiosity. Loaded with black powder from a couple of fireworks and a cloth wad and a short fuse, it went off with an impressive bang and disappeared instantly under recoil, about 30' feet away! I think he only fired it twice before cutting it up before it destroyed its self and the side of his house. Happy days LOL.
 
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Ah.....back in the day, my old metalwork teacher made his own cast iron miniature cannon (about 4'' long) to satisfy his own slightly warped curiosity. Loaded with black powder from a couple of fireworks and a cloth wad and a short fuse, it went off with an impressive bang and disappeared instantly under recoil, about 30' feet away! I think he only fired it twice before cutting it up before it destroyed its self and the side of his house. Happy days LOL.
As I said above " Any contained force will act on its surrounding equally and so the weakest area will be breached first. In our case that would be the initiation tube plug or the sawdust plug." If you have a unsecured cannon then yes the recoil will move the cannon in the opposite direction. 30 ft of recoil of a 4 inch tube he must have not only been unsecured but must have loaded the tube up way beyond reason. That guy was whacked and needs to be in a institution other than a school.

I made a 2 inch bore cannon out of 3/16 wall pipe and breeched it with a 2x4 inch steel plug with a 1/4 in welded locking latch. I fired wooden plugs 100 meters with a small charge of black powder of maybe 1-2 oz of powder; can not remember. I had a crazy buddy who I gave the cannon to and he was similar in reason as your shop teacher and he ended up loading it up way beyond capability and blew the breech 8 ft to the rear and tore off the locking latch. His wood projectile went through a paper machine felt of about 1/4 inch of tight weave that he had as a target with no noticeable drop. That paper machine felt is used to make paper on rollers and it is very heavy but the wood went clean through it and made a round hole like a real projectile would.

Now for your shop teacher to have made a cannon that was recoiled 30ft he had to have made it from a food can or something similar.

P.S. My tube did not move nor did the wall suffer any deformation after the shot; only the breech was damaged. If I had threaded the breech on to the pipe then we might have seen chamber deformation under the pressure.
 
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As I said above " Any contained force will act on its surrounding equally and so the weakest area will be breached first. In our case that would be the initiation tube plug or the sawdust plug." If you have a unsecured cannon then yes the recoil will move the cannon in the opposite direction. 30 ft of recoil of a 4 inch tube he must have not only been unsecured but must have loaded the tube up way beyond reason. That guy was whacked and needs to be in a institution other than a school.

I made a 2 inch bore cannon out of 3/16 wall pipe and breeched it with a 2x4 inch steel plug with a 1/4 in welded locking latch. I fired wooden plugs 100 meters with a small charge of black powder of maybe 1-2 oz of powder; can not remember. I had a crazy buddy who I gave the cannon to and he was similar in reason as your shop teacher and he ended up loading it up way beyond capability and blew the breech 8 ft to the rear and tore off the locking latch. His wood projectile went through a paper machine felt of about 1/4 inch of tight weave that he had as a target with no noticeable drop. That paper machine felt is used to make paper on rollers and it is very heavy but the wood went clean through it and made a round hole like a real projectile would.

Now for your shop teacher to have made a cannon that was recoiled 30ft he had to have made it from a food can or something similar.

P.S. My tube did not move nor did the wall suffer any deformation after the shot; only the breech was damaged. If I had threaded the breech on to the pipe then we might have seen chamber deformation under the pressure.
I once saw some kids with a bicycle handlebar with a hole drilled in the top for the match to ignite the powder. It was full of black powder and loaded with small nails and glass. I didn’t stick around to see the outcome.
 
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Homemade guns can be dangerous to yourself even if it is just a harmless gun that that can't do any harm. A couple years ago 3 young Danish lads (in their fifties ;)) were each sentenced to 3 month in prison for a harmless prank. Highly inebriated they fired a couple of oranges against Her Danish Majesty's Yacht Dannebrog with a homemade PVC pipe cannon. Anyway, it must have been one heck of a party:cool:
 
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Homemade guns can be dangerous to yourself even if it is just a harmless gun that that can't do any harm. A couple years ago 3 young Danish lads (in their fifties ;)) were each sentenced to 3 month in prison for a harmless prank. Highly inebriated they fired a couple of oranges against Her Danish Majesty's Yacht Dannebrog with a homemade PVC pipe cannon. Anyway, it must have been one heck of a party:cool:
We in Door County shoot Potatoes because we used to have lots of potato farmers here in the old days. They use 2 inch PVC like your guys and hair spray as the propellant. They shoot the potatoes at whatever is around like trees/cars/sign posts/cows whatever but no body puts them in jail. I thought you Danes were easy going; I will have to rethink that after this news.
 
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We in Door County shoot Potatoes because we used to have lots of potato farmers here in the old days. They use 2 inch PVC like your guys and hair spray as the propellant. They shoot the potatoes at whatever is around like trees/cars/sign posts/cows whatever but no body puts them in jail. I thought you Danes were easy going; I will have to rethink that after this news.
You can get away with a lot of pranks here but there are also a few I would recommend to avoid. Things like joking about the bomb you have in your suitcase when you pass the security check in the airport etc. Apparenly firing an orange gun against Her Danish Majesty's Yacht is also not considered great fun - by the executive power and the judiciary that is.
Well, sometimes good pranks comes with a cost. I'm sure Mathias Rust found it worth every day of the 14 month he spend in prison for flying his Cessna to the red squarre in Moscow. A cheap price after all, he could have been evaporated by the Sovjet Air Defence.
 
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Bought an unfinished 32 lb cannonade that I hope to get machined and demonstrate firing in the future.
 

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Now we can install these on our ships,I would love to see a Victory fire them all in mini version ;):)

https://www.minicannontech.com/

Now I know how I will be actually able to fire the 7-inch 30 caliber steel barrel 30 caliber cannon.jpg30 caliber cannon.jpgbarrel that I turned years ago and has been waiting for a carriage. Although it is designed for 0.17 caliber I will just get more of a bang and less of a firing range but starting low and working up is the way to experiment but knowing where to stop will be the challenge. THanks for this link. PT-2
 
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Now I know how I will be actually able to fire the 7-inch 30 caliber steel barrel View attachment 178864View attachment 178864barrel that I turned years ago and has been waiting for a carriage. Although it is designed for 0.17 caliber I will just get more of a bang and less of a firing range but starting low and working up is the way to experiment but knowing where to stop will be the challenge. THanks for this link. PT-2
Am I to understand that you have bored the barrel at ID 0.17 of an inch already? What about your Fuse hole? Is it drilled and do you know where it ends up in the chamber? What is the Dimension of the fuse hole? Have you figured out how you are going to initiate the charge?

I am using 1/4 of inch as chamber so I can find cutters for patches and charges and plugs or balls at the correct size. Yours will fire a BB maybe? I can find cutters for 1/4" easy.
I am making the fuse hole 1/16" because I can buy brass tube with that internal dimension and 0.5 mm enameled wire will fit in 1/16" hole. I am thinking of using a dikes to cut the doubled up end of the wire and file as needed to ensure a gap for spark. Of course that is after I epoxyed them inside a greased tube. Then Either I am going to pour the fuse powder into the fuse hole and cap with the igniter; or maybe fill a 1/16" tube with the powder along with an organic binder and the initiator. Have not worked out yet.
 

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Am I to understand that you have bored the barrel at ID 0.17 of an inch already? What about your Fuse hole? Is it drilled and do you know where it ends up in the chamber? What is the Dimension of the fuse hole? Have you figured out how you are going to initiate the charge?

I am using 1/4 of inch as chamber so I can find cutters for patches and charges and plugs or balls at the correct size. Yours will fire a BB maybe? I can find cutters for 1/4" easy.
I am making the fuse hole 1/16" because I can buy brass tube with that internal dimension and 0.5 mm enameled wire will fit in 1/16" hole. I am thinking of using a dikes to cut the doubled up end of the wire and file as needed to ensure a gap for spark. Of course that is after I epoxyed them inside a greased tube. Then Either I am going to pour the fuse powder into the fuse hole and cap with the igniter; or maybe fill a 1/16" tube with the powder along with an organic binder and the initiator. Have not worked out yet.
I have to enlarge my fuse hole a I did it scale when I turned the steel barrel years ago. The caliber is just under a 30 which is .308 inches and I have some ball bearings that are 9/32 which will accommodate black powder shooter's patch which come in many different thicknesses. I was considering using some shotgun propellant for the main load and can get small grained igniter but a fuse is best. I'll have to wait to see what that fuse diameter is before I enlarge the present hole. I will have the normal shipboard cascabel/breach restraining rigging to control the recoil. PT-2
 
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I have to enlarge my fuse hole a I did it scale when I turned the steel barrel years ago. The caliber is just under a 30 which is .308 inches and I have some ball bearings that are 9/32 which will accommodate black powder shooter's patch which come in many different thicknesses. I was considering using some shotgun propellant for the main load and can get small grained igniter but a fuse is best. I'll have to wait to see what that fuse diameter is before I enlarge the present hole. I will have the normal shipboard cascabel/breach restraining rigging to control the recoil. PT-2
To clarify things. I am not using the small caliber that is in the kit but looking only for their powder and fuses to load upward from small measured grain load to larger ones very slowly firing my larger 9/32 balls from the bore which measures 0.29 inches depending upon temperature. It is full depth with the scaled ignition hole interring the end of the bore chamber in a normal charge location but I did not machine it for that and have only the main caliber full depth. I plan on loading in the same manner as at black powder shooter does with separating wads and around the ball. I reload ammunition for my 30-30 so I have very accurate measuring scales to use in premeasuring out loads and will keep a loading log of results the same as I do for the rifle. This is a rather poor entry without normal loading/performance data from the powder manufacturer that I otherwise would be following. Load small, puff, record, reload slightly heavier, bang, record, reload again . . . Bang. . . again BANG! Stop there and just have fun if the barrel and carriage are working. PT-2
PT-2
 
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I have to enlarge my fuse hole a I did it scale when I turned the steel barrel years ago. The caliber is just under a 30 which is .308 inches and I have some ball bearings that are 9/32 which will accommodate black powder shooter's patch which come in many different thicknesses. I was considering using some shotgun propellant for the main load and can get small grained igniter but a fuse is best. I'll have to wait to see what that fuse diameter is before I enlarge the present hole. I will have the normal shipboard cascabel/breach restraining rigging to control the recoil. PT-2
check out "enameled wire" on the net===they have lots of tiny tire down to 0.01 mm I think. It should fit any hole you have. I do not know the grain size of the gun caps since I have not bought any yet. But that might be the most critical thing for you. Get a 209 cap from a reloader guy and open it up carefully with a shape knife. Wear a full face cover and gloves just to be safe. Might be good to get a few different manufacture cap because they might not be all equal.
Remember that stuff is Impact sensitive handle it like it was Nitroglycerin---Gently---DO NOT try and crush it to make it smaller grains.

They might fill the caps with a chemical slurry that solidify's as a chemical reaction inside. If that is the case we will have to use something else. I would be very cautious to try and abraid a solid mass of the stuff, I do not know how it would act. It might explode. It might not.

Start small for the primary charge. I would guess for a 30 cal I would start with 1 gram and see how that works. remember there is going to be blow back from the fuse so keep your face cover on when shooting.

Let us know what you find for the grain sizes.
 
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check out "enameled wire" on the net===they have lots of tiny tire down to 0.01 mm I think. It should fit any hole you have. I do not know the grain size of the gun caps since I have not bought any yet. But that might be the most critical thing for you. Get a 209 cap from a reloader guy and open it up carefully with a shape knife. Wear a full face cover and gloves just to be safe. Might be good to get a few different manufacture cap because they might not be all equal.
Remember that stuff is Impact sensitive handle it like it was Nitroglycerin---Gently---DO NOT try and crush it to make it smaller grains.

They might fill the caps with a chemical slurry that solidify's as a chemical reaction inside. If that is the case we will have to use something else. I would be very cautious to try and abraid a solid mass of the stuff, I do not know how it would act. It might explode. It might not.

Start small for the primary charge. I would guess for a 30 cal I would start with 1 gram and see how that works. remember there is going to be blow back from the fuse so keep your face cover on when shooting.

Let us know what you find for the grain sizes.
I am not familiar with the caps that you mention. I weigh out my power in grains using an initial loader measure which is somewhat light and then a trickle device for the last few grains onto the pan in my balance scale which is more accurate than my digital which requires frequent recalibration. I am not going to even get close to what I reload from charts minimum load for the 30-30. I'll start with what they use for the mini .177" and from the results move upwards in increments. PT-2
 
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We are communicating across crevasse of misunderstanding. In my previous posts above in this thread I explained what I would use for an initiation source and I recommended a cartridge primer. Please see my prior messages for more information if you want.
 
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We are communicating across crevasse of misunderstanding. In my previous posts above in this thread I explained what I would use for an initiation source and I recommended a cartridge primer. Please see my prior messages for more information if you want.
OK, now I understand that you were talking about primers (which is current ammunition and reloading shortages here are hard to get) but I am not willing to probe into those and am guarding the few thousand that I have left.
I did look up enameled wire and only found insulated copper wire such as for motor windings. How would the thin coating work as a fuse? Or is there something else out there that a lighter would ignite and slowly burn down to the powder charge? PT-2
 
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We are communicating across crevasse of misunderstanding. In my previous posts above in this thread I explained what I would use for an initiation source and I recommended a cartridge primer. Please see my prior messages for more information if you want.
OK, now I understand that you were talking about primers (which is current ammunition and reloading shortages here are hard to get) but I am not willing to probe into those and am guarding the few thousand that I have left.
I did look up enameled wire and only found insulated copper wire such as for motor windings. How would the thin coating work as a fuse? Or is there something else out there that a lighter would ignite and slowly burn down to the powder charge? PT-2
 
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Like I said you need an initiation for the black powder---it does not explode it self. That is why i said use a cap and get the Silver Fulminate out of it and use that for the initiator. If you do not want to use the cap material then good luck.
The wire is doubled up and cut and connected to a electrical source like a battery and make a spark to ignite the silver fulminate. I thought I explained that all above previously. Tiny wires will only be able to used for one shot because they will burn out and as I said above I would encapsulate the wire and fulminate together in a tube the size of the fuse hole.
there is no magic slow burning fuse that I am aware of.
 
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Like I said you need an initiation for the black powder---it does not explode it self. That is why i said use a cap and get the Silver Fulminate out of it and use that for the initiator. If you do not want to use the cap material then good luck.
The wire is doubled up and cut and connected to a electrical source like a battery and make a spark to ignite the silver fulminate. I thought I explained that all above previously. Tiny wires will only be able to used for one shot because they will burn out and as I said above I would encapsulate the wire and fulminate together in a tube the size of the fuse hole.
there is no magic slow burning fuse that I am aware of.
Thanks for the battery power source to overheat the wire. Now I understand your approach. PT-2
 
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