Gallic fishing boat St Gildas

In a bit of a holding pattern for a few days, as one of the belts on my mini lathe parted in the midst of tapering the bowsprit. I've got two of three hatches made, but I figured I need to get the bowsprit and mizzen mast situated first to ensure I don't inadvertently foul the positioning of those if I get the positions of the hatches not quite right. I'll start work on the after-most hatch while I wait for belts. The block supplied with the kit is made of balsa and is too small so I'll need to start from scratch. Plus, Le Biche has a rounded top for that hatch, which I want to replicate.
 
With the lathe out of commission I had ample time to work on the companionway hatch.
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I thought the crew would appreciate some ventilation below deck so I added louvers to the door (it would drop down, not swing so I don’t know if there is a better name than door).
 
Jumping ahead quite a bit, the plans call for 14 fishing hooks to be strung from the outriggers so I have started making those.
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I’m still not 100% sure I will add those because I’m not sure where I will find line small enough and able to maintain a straight appearance with so little weight on the end. Of note, they are absent from the photo of the completed model on the box top.
 
The belts for my lathe arrived sooner than expected so I could continue with the bowsprit. After getting it tapered, I milled the flats and a slot for a pulley the fore-stay.
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I also made the pulley and a cap for the bowsprit with a loop for the chain that attaches to the keel
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Various and sundry progress made. Deadeyes and chains are nearly ready to install; new bales for the windlass done on the lathe (the kit bales were horrible!); hoops for the spanker nearly done. Bowsprit completed and installed.
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It’s probably a bit early for that, but there are lines that run through the hull that require holes drilled, and I need the bowsprit in place to locate them to avoid fouling the lines.

Mizzen mast is also nearly complete and dry fit to the hull
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Meager as my skills are, this build is already light-years ahead of the model featured on the box top. One would think the manufacturer would want a quality finished product on the packaging, but Soclaine seem to travel their own road. ROTF
 
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On my plans, the blocks are labeled as 3/1, 3/2, 5/3, etc. Can anyone explain how to interpret that? From context, it seems like the second number is the number of sheaves in the block, but don't know what to make of the first number.
 
My guess would be actual size in millimeters. At your scale of 1:50, a 3mm block would be 150mm (6") and 5mm would be 250mm (~10"). Those seem like reasonable sizes for blocks on a vessel of that size.
 
My guess would be actual size in millimeters. At your scale of 1:50, a 3mm block would be 150mm (6") and 5mm would be 250mm (~10"). Those seem like reasonable sizes for blocks on a vessel of that size.
Thanks for that response. My thinking was trending in that direction.
 
Not many updates recently as I continue to scratchbuild details in no particular sequence. Trying to get all the deck furniture and fittings installed so I can finally start stepping masts. Will post an update when I get there. In the meantime, the one and only 14mm white metal cleat for securing the boom has gone missing. First attempt at making a replacement from wood did not go well. Would prefer not to buy a whole bag of the things, since i don't foresee much use for cleats that large.
 
I’ve run into some trouble with the tackle for securing the tiller. This is what the plans show:
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And here is a photo in the instructions
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The outboard blocks go into eyes in the deck and the inboard blocks look from the plans like they should hook onto the tiller, but I can’t figure out where the running end of the sheet should be. It’s a tiller, so the rig of necessity would need to be adjustable, but the arrangement in the plans doesn’t seem to permit that.

Anyone have an idea?
 
Good morning. Lovely progress. I agree with your assessment of the tiller tackle. In my view the rope would be tied to the tiller run through the block on the deck back up via the block on the tiller and then back to the deck to be tied off to a cleat or ring. The falls would be looped on the deck.
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This pic doesn’t show the whole system but you can follow the flow of the tackle.
Cheers Grant
 
@GrantTyler, thanks for that input. Having looked at photos of Le Biche, I see there are significant differences between the contemporary ship and St Gildas, which I think gives me some leeway for improvisation. I figured maximum mechanical advantage and convenience for the steersman meant tying off near the tiller so I used some artistic license and spare belaying pins to add belay points to the rail beneath the tiller:
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They are attached to the tiller with hooks so they could be easily dropped when frequent changes were called for. I’m still experimenting to get the right look, but will throw some hanks over the belaying pins
 
Well overdue for an update.

Having gotten all furniture and fittings mounted to the deck and bulwarks (I think! Plans are pretty skosh), I’m nearly ready to step the masts and start on rigging in earnest. The mizzen mast is just dry fit right now.

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But first, I think it behooves me to get some sails made. Fortunately, the Admiral is out of town for another week so I can spread out my sail loft on her desk.
 
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