Hannah by DocBlake. 1:32 Scale - Scratch Built, Plank-on-Frame, Admiralty Style

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Hello All--I'm having a little (!) problem and I'm hoping I can get some help. I am currently building Caldercraft's HMS Victory. I am at the part where these long 5mm thick x 20mm wide dummy canon strips have to be inserted through several vertically rectangular holes in bulkheads 2-17. The frames are such to where these holes are lined up in frames 2 & 3, and, they are lined up in frames 4-17. The holes in frames 3 to 4 are not lined up. I let the strips soak in water for 3 hours. Yet, try as I may, I just cannot get the strips to bend over about 5mm to get it in the holes in frame 4. Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you so much,

Andy
Do you have a picture?
 
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Do you have a picture?
In my limited experience of time I have found that heat is necessary to bending, possibly more than just soaking. I use denatured alcohol for a soaking of a few minutes and then use my electric bending tool in a rolling motion on the back side of the desired curve, one plank end on a firm surface while I roll an stroke the hot iron over the inside gradually forming the curve. Several trial tests and rebending passes are generally required to get the plank into a very close if not exact bend which will then not require very much clamping to tighten the bend/plank while the slow setting glue penetrates both wood surfaces and dries. Just my own approach out of many different ones on SoS. Rich (PT-2)
 
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Hello Vfordyce and PT-2--I do not have a picture and I won't be able to take one till much later in the day, although I don't think it would add to what I have described.
Thanks PT-2 for reminding me about the heat--I was trying to force the wet wood over about 5mm without heat. I'll purchase some denatured alcohol today.
 
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PT-2-->EUREKA--the 4 dummy barrel strips are in!! It took over 1.5 hours. As it ended up, I didn't need to re-soak the wood in denatured alcohol or use heat after all. I remembered that I have a plank bender. It's similar to a pair of plyers, but one jaw surface is wide smooth plastic and the other jaw has a blunt-edged piece of metal. It's best to use on wood with a 3mm max thickness. But although these strips are 5mm thick, it did help a little. Most of the work was done with my needle-nosed plyers. I would grip the wood and "twist-bend" it to the hole; I only needed to "rest" the end of the wood barely into the opening and let my hammer do the rest. After that experience though, alcohol and heat might have made it easier. I'm glad for the experience though--it boosts my confidence-level as a ship modeler. This has been the hardest thing that I have ever successfully done in the realm of ship modeling! Thank you so much for your help and encouragement.

Andy from Kenosha
 
Joined
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Location
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PT-2-->EUREKA--the 4 dummy barrel strips are in!! It took over 1.5 hours. As it ended up, I didn't need to re-soak the wood in denatured alcohol or use heat after all. I remembered that I have a plank bender. It's similar to a pair of plyers, but one jaw surface is wide smooth plastic and the other jaw has a blunt-edged piece of metal. It's best to use on wood with a 3mm max thickness. But although these strips are 5mm thick, it did help a little. Most of the work was done with my needle-nosed plyers. I would grip the wood and "twist-bend" it to the hole; I only needed to "rest" the end of the wood barely into the opening and let my hammer do the rest. After that experience though, alcohol and heat might have made it easier. I'm glad for the experience though--it boosts my confidence-level as a ship modeler. This has been the hardest thing that I have ever successfully done in the realm of ship modeling! Thank you so much for your help and encouragement.

Andy from Kenosha
We all have out own preferences so what work best for you is your heading. My tack is to have all of the fibers relax and formed in smooth curves to their new positions with the moisture and heat process. I'm glad that your pinching tool worked for you. Rich
 
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Hey Dave, looking great.
I'm curious, when you are attaching those bow frames and hawse pieces are you reinforcing with a wire/pin at the keel attachment, or do they hold pretty well on their own?
Eric
 
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