Thanks Ian. I did not bother to actually pin hooks to sides - blind holes and brass wire. I know what you mean regarding planking fore platform. Now that I've seen your work, I could beat myself to death not thinking far enough to get the shape of the margin plank before I installed breast hook. That's going to be the exercise in frustration. Now that I look at these pictures again, I think it's time to dust the desk. Great housekeeper I am.Very nice and beautiful photos! The forecastle and breast hooks gave me a ton of work, especially after installing them with wire pins. Even after multiple adjustments I didn’t get it right. I could tell when it came time to plank the forecastle that the end of the hook didn’t protrude as much as Antscherl’s so chiseled the end flush so the margin plank sat on top. I think you know what I mean. You can’t really tell until you place your beams but yours look spot on.
Hi Gennaro. I know that feeling and I think @dockattner Paul also knows it very well. What you listed as mistakes are no more than imperfections. And now I am being dead serious - if everything was perfect, it was machine-made and even then you would be very surprised. I remember from my Audi days how we would measure out panel gaps on the bodyshells of our other two German competitors to see how we stacked up against them. Let me tell you - it's sometimes a good thing, buyers of these cars do not walk around with micrometers.My dear Paul, precision comes with heavy price on mental health. You should've seen me yesterday - fit to be tied!
Precisely Uwe. Template was used to position hook vertically and more importantly to get the correct angle.
Great start can't wait to see more. I have the TFFM series and have used them as reference.The book comes with three sheets of plans. All drawings are presented at 1:48 scale, except the standing and running rigging and belaying plans, which are at 1:96 scale. Pictures below are of awful quality, but it will give you an idea what to expect.
Plan sheet 1 contains profile, deck plan, sheer plan, building board plan, cross-section and various timber patterns.
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Plan sheet 2 contains all spar plans, standing and running rigging plans and belaying plan.
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Plan sheet 3 contains complete lofted frame drawings, transoms, hawse pieces and elevations of bow and stern cant framing.
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I can't believe you milled a 1/64 cut around the curve of the head piece. Great work. I'd love to learn how you did this.Rabbet is a mean, nasty son of a gun! v-shaped milling bit was disaster - had to rebuild several pieces. Better luck with 1/64" end mill. Once the hairline was milled in, files, scrapers, micro-chisels were used to shape it. Some wood was left, it will be shaped at much later date, when the outside of the hull is ready for fairing. In spite of few hiccups, I've never enjoyed ship modelling as I do enjoy this build. Thanks so much for you interest, encouraging comments, all the loves and likes. Much appreciated as always. Anyway, here are few pics:
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Gennaro let me understand that you held the piece and slid it around the pin just following the curve.Daniel,
It took several attempts to cut rabbet. I tried to use v-shaped milling bits and it did not work for me. 1/64" flat milling bit at highest speed did the trick. Besides tiny milling bit, I used a piece of plywood with steel pin, carefully set the distance between the pin and milling bit (center of the rabbet) and slowly moved pieces of keel underneath in several shallow passes holding them tightly agains the pin. This resulted in 1/64" thin line congruent to the upper part of the keel. After that I used v-shaped files and scrapers to cut the rabbet to its almost final shape. It will be finished way down the road when fairing the outside of the model. Hopefully this explains the process. Many thanks for your interest.
6 Weeks to get this far is amazing.Finally managed to finish the hockey stick. It took six weeks and I am at picture 1 in the monograph. There are 365 pictures. Little calculation reveals that model would be finished in approximately 42 years. Hopefully, things will speed up at some point. Thanks for all the comments and likes.
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Someone told me not to worry about redos we must all feed the "wood bucket" to keep everything in alignment with the worldThank you Paul, I'm flattered, but I don't think it's a gift. Gifted people achieve much better results in much less time. I just keep redoing pieces over and over again until I'm satisfied.
Amazing is all that can be said. Just amazing. When you mentioned spacers are those the small pieces at the top of the rib?All cant frames have been installed as well as the first square frame. LOT of wood had to be removed, small amount left for final fairing (pencil marks are still visible). I was pleasantly surprised that square frame is true and centered. Now the more difficult job is ahead - first fore cant frame and hose pieces. Initially I was sceptical about Antscherl's right up method of construction, but after this experience, I wouldn't bother with complex jigs - two machinist squares is all you need. Another amazing thing to me is how sturdy the whole structure is - not a single frame popped out while fairing. Anyway, here are few pics of the current status of the model. Many thanks for all your kind comments and likes. Very much appreciated. Happy modelling!
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I finally managed to make and install all the fore cant frames as well as few square frames. The one sitting at dead flat is single one - chock/scarph joint. It really made me appreciate what some of our members are doing - framing the whole ship in this way. Mine was relatively easy, but handling beveled joints would be a different story. Speaking of beveled joints, does anybody know if there is an angle plate for Proxxon MF70? Anyway, here are few pics of the current state of the model. More wood is on the way from our friend Sergey. Thanks for all your comments and likes. Much appreciated and encouraging as always. It's going to be a while before the next post - fill in the gap with square frames, repetitive and somewhat boring task.
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Just trying to understand. When you fair do you start with rifflers and then go to rasps to file or to sanding block? I've never used rifflers so I'm curious as to the process and how much do you remove with the riffler. Many thanks. Oh yeh its looking fantastic your joint work is superb. Really like the chocks joints.
Wonderful. Looking down the length seeing all the frames faired into shape. Must be very proud moment for you just to admire you workIt's been a month since the last update. Rough month. My wife fell and broke her hip, but she is slowly getting better. I managed to reach the milestone - framing is completed. I glad that it did not turn into sausage, but rather into something that resembles ship. Few more days of fairing and it will be the time to stabilize the whole structure, although it's quite sturdy already. I'm really not looking forward to installing deck clamps. It's going to be difficult to bend 3/32" boxwood into shape. What are your thoughts on this? I've seen at least one build where fore part of deck clamps were carved rather than bent (Oliver's La Belle). Another thing that bothers me is that plans lack complete lines of main deck and lower platforms - they show only the part where beams are installed. If somebody is familiar with the subject, I would more than appreciate your advice and guidance. Thanks so much for stopping by, all the likes and comments. Here are few latest pics. I took her out of the basement for inspection.
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