help with trimming planks to bow

[Thomas Marocke]

Hi Ronald!

As Paul says, I had a bad translation program. Now my computer is working properly again and I only now understand your problem.



Maybe this will help to get the bulkheads back in order. The bulkhead drawing of the HMS Victory.

Best regards
Thomas

 

[ronald305]

well Gentlemen and Ladies in case there are Ladies following this thread I can save the bow area but sadly I will have tear out all of the stern planks
and start over except for the very first planks that has the tight short tight turn and may be second one as well, I don't know what I was thinking when I did what did but adding cardboard paper shims on those last three bulkheads, I know for sure I will have buy more planking strips from some hobby shop that has them
Ronald

 

[ronald305]

ooh I forgot to ask besides model space USA if they are still around does anyone know of any online hobby shops that sell 2mm X 5mm wood strips for planking

 

[ronald305]

thanks, Thomas, for the diagram of the bulkheads but I wouldn't know how to scale it up or down to copy or trace them

 

[dockattner]

ooh I forgot to ask besides model space USA if they are still around does anyone know of any online hobby shops that sell 2mm X 5mm wood strips for planking

What species of wood are you looking for? Is this just the first (inner) planking so limewood/basswood would be suitable knowing there will be a veneer covering it?

 

[donfarr]

GO TO DAVE STEVENS AT THE LUMBERYARD MEMBER SOS, HE CAN DO ANYTHING THAT YOU NEED .GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON

 

[ronald305]

My Victory only has one layer of planking there is second planking and bottom will covered with copper and the rest will be painted, which is the easiest to bend after it's wet that is

 

[ronald305]

sorry typo I wanted to say that there is no second layer

 

[ronald305]

how do I fine the lumberyard website

 

[dockattner]

how do I fine the lumberyard website

The Lumberyard for model shipwrights

The Lumberyard is primarily for the model shipbuilder, however our collection of wood and mill services are used in all aspects of fine woodworking - we have been supplying wood to carvers, wood turners and all types of model building and woodworking since 1984.

www.dlumberyard.com

Tell him what you are doing and he can select the proper wood choice - probably basswood (limewood) or similar.

 

[ronald305]

ok thanks Paul which person do I e-mail Dave or Ev

 

[dockattner]

ok thanks Paul which person do I e-mail Dave or Ev

To message Dave click on the little envelope on the top right corner of the page (in the black bar next to the bell) and type in his contact: Dave Stevens (Lumberyard). It will autofill once you get started.

 

[ronald305]

if we are talking about the same web site then I see any little envelope next to a bell which is not there either tell me what the front of the website looks like

 

[dockattner]

if we are talking about the same web site then I see any little envelope next to a bell which is not there either tell me what the front of the website looks like

Sorry. Not on the website. You can message Dave from this forum page. While you are reading this look up and to the right... To the left of the 'Search' box you will find a bell and an envelope. Click on the envelope and put Dave's name in the Recipients box and type your message/questions to him below. I'll tag him to this message and perhaps he can get in touch with you (@Dave Stevens (Lumberyard).

 

[dnalley]

well Gentlemen and Ladies in case there are Ladies following this thread I can save the bow area but sadly I will have tear out all of the stern planks
and start over except for the very first planks that has the tight short tight turn and may be second one as well ,but adding cardboard paper shims on those last three bulkheads, I know for sure I will have buy more planking strips from some hobby shop that has them
Ronald

"I don't know what I was thinking when I did what did." I took this away from your comment because I need to use it on my next excuse for the reason, I don't know what I did what I did.

 

[El Capi]

Ronald.
Model Space is not an accepted manufacturer according to Model Ship World. They have a strict code regarding manufacturers who copy reputable companies model kits; hence the reason for no response.
It appears that you have completed the framing and have some planks already laid around the turn of the bilge. I see however that you appear to have altered the intended profile of the hull by adding shims to bulkhead edges. Is this because you have taken off too much material in fairing the hull prior to planking?
It's important that you fair the entire hull before you start planking (despite what the instructions might say). Fairing will give you the maximum surface area onto which the planks will be glued (and pinned if required).

As for the Garboard plank: it is a straight plank on one side (the side that does NOT run along the keel, however this is not always practical in a kit model as planks are a fixed width. In your case, the garboard plank does run straight along the keel and at the end of the keel will have a curve cut in to align with the stem. There will be a slight bend in the end of the plank to follow the line of the keel and stem along the longitudinal axis only as shown in diagram 14. The next row of planks will then follow this line, but there may be some tapering of planks

good explanation. I my selves always-in the latest time of building - usind the Gardboard. to is a good help for the rest of planking-el capi

 

[El Capi]

good explanation. I my selves always-in the latest time of building - usind the Gardboard. to is a good help for the rest of planking-el capi

 

[Thomas Marocke]

Hi Ronald!


This is what the drawing looks like when I print it out (11,3 centimeters wide). You must measure the widest bulkhead without planking of your model and adapt the drawing to your model by scaling it with photocopies.


Here is a personal test of a model, whether the delivered bulkheads of a kit correspond to the scaled construction drawing. Here you can see the first eight bow bulkheads on the drawing.


By placing the photocopied bulkheads on the original drawings, the dimencional accuracy can be checked.


If a copy of the bulkheads drawing of the Victory is available in the correct scale, you can check your bulkheads this way. Because the drawing has more bulkheads than your model, you must use the closest bulkhead.

Good luck
Thomas

 

[Dave @W]

You obviously have the build/instruction manual. That manual appears to have drawings of the bulkheads for ID purposes. Copy and trace those via either home printer or have a good print shop do them. You can then scale them to proper size using other known or personally scaled via your own ruler. Or a print shop can do the job provided you give them the correct scale. Cut new. partial bulkheads from plywood, glue in place then replank. I believe this is about what what Philski was suggesting. Last recourse, - start over with a new kit and chalk this up as an expensive mistake, especially since you trashed the original laser pattern panels

 

[Short John Bronze]

The original bulkhead profile might be traced from the holes in the the sheets from which they were cut - if that was their origin and you still have the bits.