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Hi All, has anyone built a model of Billings boats "Cutty Sark. I'm a little bit stuck on the planking side in terms of completing as there is a bow/c

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Hi All, has anyone built a model of Billings boats "Cutty Sark. I'm a little bit stuck on the planking side in terms of completing as there is a bow/c
 
Apologies, forgot to introduce myself. I'm Gary and although I've built a number of model ships, this is my first plank on plank model

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Welcome to SoS Gary!

When you say plank on plank, do you mean the hull has two layers of planking? If it does, the first layer will obviously be covered so less to worry about. Regarding the bowing, the sheer of the hull planking was different than the sheer of the deck lines so the bowing was more obvious. Keep in mind that the breadth of the planks was reduced fore and aft from the dead flat so the frames/bulkheads need to be lined off to know the width of each plank at each frame. The planks were not the same width from stem to post. There are planking expansion drawings from RMG posted here at SoS that explain it better than words and a lot of posts on how to plank a hull properly that could be of help. Then again, if the hull is to be painted over, there is a lot more leeway on how you do it, :)
Allan
 
Welcome aboard from Connecticut. It is a bit difficult ro diagnose the problem with just one picture. If you include more of the hull it would be better. From what I see, I agree with Allan that the planks need to be tapered at the ends. Planking is one of the mysterious processes of ship building and much has been written. Here is one area you may want to study.


There are also many articles on this site and many you tube videos that help.

It also pays to bevel one edge of the length of the plank as it abuts the previous plank and curves up the hull.

As Allan stated if this is a double planked hull you are probably ok, if you do the second planking using some of the above techniques. If not you may have to take off some of the planking and refine your technique. If you used water based (PVA) glue you can soak the joins with water and it should separate. If you used CA I believe acetone or toluene may help.

If you do not want to do that you can try using wood filler (I like Elmers).

Rob
 
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