HIGH HOPES, WILD MEN AND THE DEVIL’S JAW - Willem Barentsz Kolderstok 1:50

dockattner said:
I confess that this post has relieved an unspoken concern I had. When you repaired the transom (or whatever I should be calling it) the joinery at the midline was a bit irregular. Now I see that everything there was going to be covered... Looking good Heinrich!
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ROTF I am glad Paul! Luckily, I know this ship so well that I know exactly where I can take a shortcut - believe me there aren't many such places. :). The keel fits beautifully, and I'm very happy with the joints, the bearding lines which protrude on both sides are perfectly equal in depth and it sits 100% square and in the middle of stern bulkhead. The grain is my concern.
 
Daniel20 said:
Hi Heinrich, I'm so glad you addressed the grain pattern in the keel. I too at first glance thought wow that's too large of pattern.
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Oh, Daniel for sure it is - I just don't know what to do about it!

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The sides of the keel are also on the coarse side but are nowhere near as pronounced as on the keel.
 
Since it will be covered, perhaps a light coating of bleach? I had a few areas on my Vasa that had a plywood edge exposed so I had ordered some sheets of walnut and was able to veneer over it. Other areas such as between the keel and rudder I just painted over the plywood edge with flat black paint. I know you will come up with an answer.
 
Daniel20 said:
Since it will be covered, perhaps a light coating of bleach? I had a few areas on my Vasa that had a plywood edge exposed so I had ordered some sheets of walnut and was able to veneer over it. Other areas such as between the keel and rudder I just painted over the plywood edge with flat black paint. I know you will come up with an answer.
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Daniel, I honestly don't know here. I think the first step is to cut out the rudder from its sheet and see how it cleans up. If that works OK, there is no problem!
 
You are absolutely correct Don. Oak has traditionally been regarded as too heavy-grained for model building, but Kolderstok has had great success with various models in oak. This one though, is new to the range, but from the point of being historically correct, I have opted for the oak.
 
Heinrich, in my post #3100 I said interesting grain pattern.
You're finding why I don't like oak except for larger woodworking projects. The grain is very course.
I know your finished project will be exceptional and I agree with Paul. No macro photos. ;)
When you get to the hull planking it will be something very special when finished.
I'll be interested to hear your methodology when it comes to plank bending the oak.
Please don't get frustrated and switch to something stronger than Nescafe.
 
rtibbs said:
Heinrich, in my post #3100 I said interesting grain pattern.
You're finding why I don't like oak except for larger woodworking projects. The grain is very course.
I know your finished project will be exceptional and I agree with Paul. No macro photos. ;)
When you get to the hull planking it will be something very special when finished.
I'll be interested to hear your methodology when it comes to plank bending the oak.
Please don't get frustrated and switch to something stronger than Nescafe.
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What a lovely message, Ron! If I could give you a double-LOVE, I would have - thank you! I promise you I will not get frustrated and switch to anything other than Nescafe or Monster! ROTF When I decided to go for the oak, I knew that I was saddling-up a wild horse and I am ready for that. On the planks for the hull, the wood grain is perfect - it looks like the rest of the planking on the stern, so I'm fine with that (I must tell you in real life that stern is looking great). It's just on the pieces that are contained in that 8mm sheet of wood (you will know what I'm talking about) that seems to be an issue. I have now re-examined the keel - it looks like the laser char is embedded into the grain which causes those dark streaks. Maybe, it just requires more aggressive sanding.
 
Here in the U.S., oak-faced (veneered) plywoods are readily available in several thicknesses. That way you get the oak appearance without the weight or cost. Red oak vs white oak gives a bit of different appearances when comes to grain also. In making oak furniture, pore filler is often used to to gain a smooth finish. Using oak in models, be very selective to help reduce grainy issues.
 
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Philski said:
Here in the U.S., oak-faced (veneered) plywoods are readily available in several thicknesses. That way you get the oak appearance without the weight or cost. Red oak vs white oak gives a bit of different appearances when comes to grain also. In making oak furniture, pore filler is often used to to gain a smooth finish. Using oak in models, be very selective to help reduce grainy issues.
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That is very good to know Phil. Thank you for that - it is definitely something to keep in mind. Thumbsup
 
Hello Dear Friends

Building continues.

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I started the day by beginning the boxing of the hull in anticipation for planking. At this point it will just be a partial boxing until the fairing of the hull has been done. The pic above shows the opening for the main mast left open.

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I borrowed the main mast from WB #1 just to make sure everything is in order.

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A very nice and tight fit - just as it should be.

Sawing 28mm long pieces of Paulownia wood and then gluing them to the underside of the hull was perfectly ok for a while, but hardly stimulating or challenging. Cannons sounded much more interesting!

So, what did the cannons on the WB actually look like? Well to start with, they were three-wheelers and in all likelihood 6-and 3-pounders.

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When the replica's rudder was hung, the occasion was celebrated by the firing of one of the cannons.

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Onboard the ship.

Now those of you who have followed my log will know that I also cut open gunports on WB #1 but somehow never got around doing something about it. When I start planking, I become so engrossed with it that the hull was closed before I did anything about the cannons. This time, I wasn't going to let that open - those gunports gave me too much trouble not to utilize them properly! :)

The main problem was how to fix the cannons to the carriages in a way that is absolutely permanent and 100% secure (if there is such a thing), because once the next deck is on, that's it - there is no further access. The issue was compounded by the fact that I don't have any soldering and/or flux and I can only order that on the weekend when the admiral is here to do it for me. Then it struck me - on WB #1, I used the @Kolderstok-supplied brass nails as a makeshift trunnion just for fitment purposes. Somehow, the thought of these brass nails remained stuck in my mind.

What I did was to create a wooden bed for the cannon inside the gun carriage which would mean that the barrel will be absolutely level. Moreover, it also provided the opportunity of creating a 100% uniform result - in other words, making sure that both barrels are mounted at the same height and angle. The cannon was then laid down on top of its bed and rotated so that the trunnion hole was vertical instead of lateral. And yep, you guessed, nailed down from the top into the wooden bed by the brass nail.

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Cannons done. I am pretty confident that those barrels will not separate from the gun carriage for as long as the model exists. Obviously, the severe lack of space made things like gun carriage wheels, hooks, rings, tackle, trunnions and trunnion caps impossible to incorporate into the space that I have available. At the back I I even had to shorten the cannons to make sure that they would fit between the two bulkheads. The picture below, shows them dry-fitted on their special decks.

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And this is what they look like from the business end (dry-fit).

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With that I am really, really happy and all of a sudden, the combination of the brass cannons, the red gunport linings and the oak, looks great to me! They will be glued down permanently - each on its own mini-deck - once the hull fairing has been completed.
 
Heinrich said:
Hello Dear Friends

Building continues.

View attachment 317136

I started the day by beginning the boxing of the hull in anticipation for planking. At this point it will just be a partial boxing until the fairing of the hull has been done. The pic above shows the opening for the main mast left open.

View attachment 317137
I borrowed the main mast from WB #1 just to make sure everything is in order.

View attachment 317138
A very nice and tight fit - just as it should be.

Sawing 28mm long pieces of Paulownia wood and then gluing them to the underside of the hull was perfectly ok for a while, but hardly stimulating or challenging. Cannons sounded much more interesting!

So, what did the cannons on the WB actually look like? Well to start with, they were three-wheelers and in all likelihood 6-and 3-pounders.

View attachment 317146

View attachment 317147

View attachment 317148
When the replica's rudder was hung, the occasion was celebrated by the firing of one of the cannons.

View attachment 317149
Onboard the ship.

Now those of you who have followed my log will know that I also cut open gunports on WB #1 but somehow never got around doing something about it. When I start planking, I become so engrossed with it that the hull was closed before I did anything about the cannons. This time, I wasn't going to let that open - those gunports gave me too much trouble not to utilize them properly! :)

The main problem was how to fix the cannons to the carriages in a way that is absolutely permanent and 100% secure (if there is such a thing), because once the next deck is on, that's it - there is no further access. The issue was compounded by the fact that I don't have any soldering and/or flux and I can only order that on the weekend when the admiral is here to do it for me. Then it struck me - on WB #1, I used the @Kolderstok-supplied brass nails as a makeshift trunnion just for fitment purposes. Somehow, the thought of these brass nails remained stuck in my mind.

What I did was to create a wooden bed for the cannon inside the gun carriage which would mean that the barrel will be absolutely level. Moreover, it also provided the opportunity of creating a 100% uniform result - in other words, making sure that both barrels are mounted at the same height and angle. The cannon was then laid down on top of its bed and rotated so that the trunnion hole was vertical instead of lateral. And yep, you guessed, nailed down from the top into the wooden bed by the brass nail.

View attachment 317139
View attachment 317140
Cannons done. I am pretty confident that those barrels will not separate from the gun carriage for as long as the model exists. Obviously, the severe lack of space made things like gun carriage wheels, hooks, rings, tackle, trunnions and trunnion caps impossible to incorporate into the space that I have available. At the back I I even had to shorten the cannons to make sure that they would fit between the two bulkheads. The picture below, shows them dry-fitted on their special decks.

View attachment 317144

And this is what they look like from the business end (dry-fit).

View attachment 317145
With that I am really, really happy and all of a sudden, the combination of the brass cannons, the red gunport linings and the oak, looks great to me! They will be glued down permanently - each on its own mini-deck - once the hull fairing has been completed.
Click to expand...
Don’t get to close, I bite :)
 
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