Always interesting to know how things are made. It is no rocket science
I can only second that Hans.Always interesting to know how things are made. It is no rocket science
When drawing the bulkheads of a ship (I use an CAD-program for this) I only draw one side. Same goes for the decks, only one side is drawn.
Then I mirror the drawings in the centerline, thus getting a perfect symetrical piece.
The drawing is send to the laser cutter, and they cut it all in a perfect shape.
Interesting tool.Interesting and informative discussion regarding fairing techniques. I use something similar to what Maarten uses.
I use a 1" wide (actually I have several pieces with different widths and lengths) flexible metal strip with sandpaper adhered to one side. it's flexible enough that it forms easily to the curves but stiff enough that keeps my finger from deflecting the strip between bulkheads. It is a little more difficult to hold than the foam but so far, the results are good. Normally I hold the strip at the ends which have a small tab bent up and let the grit do its thing without putting excessive pressure on the strip. I've never used just a flat block of wood for sanding anything other than a flat piece. As they say, "Different strokes for different folks".
Then - to add some confusion in this nice fairing tutorial: the real Dutch ships from the 17th century were almost never exact symetrical
Dean, this makes perfect sense to me.I should probably elaborate on the technique I learned, by using a sweeping motion. What I should have attempted to explain, is that while you roll down the frames from keel to deck, you also push towards the center of the ship some. So it’s an arcing motion, which I described as sweeping motion. So you are not going straight down from keel to deck, and not going straight from bow to stern, but rather a combination of both in one sweeping motion. So I should have said a sweeping motion in an arc. I think this helps the planks sit properly at any angle. I hope that makes sense?
So true, especially since these shipwrights used what was available, more following the natural forms of the wood they had on stock.Then - to add some confusion in this nice fairing tutorial: the real Dutch ships from the 17th century were almost never exact symetrical
And still I'm angry abouth Corel and there bad drawings
. But I'm also angry abouth myself to. Because I was not sharp enough to see the major fault I made at the bow.
Heinrich, the fairing area represented in green is not the correct area, IMHO. While you have to fair all the frames, you will never be able to fair them at once. The technics are to use only two or three neighboring frames (under pressure) for a single path. The fairing stick (not the block) must be straight and long enough to cover a max of three neighboring frames, it is also should be no wider than 1 or 1.5 inches wide. You can start from the stern towards the bow section and the motion should go from the top bottom of the hull at the same time. The foamed stick should be only used on curve\concave surfaces (Stern and Bow sections).
Especially needed when you can't glue to bulkheads
Hello Dirk. I am very glad that my posting convinced you to carry on with your Prins Willem. This is why I do these build logs and why I take time with them to explain as much as I can - even my own mistakes! And with a Kolderstok model - you cannot blame the manufacturer. So, if something goes wrong, as in my case, there is only yourself to blameAnd still I'm angry abouth Corel and there bad drawings
But now, in this stage, I can make jokes abouth it.
I deside to let the PW for a couple of weeks and do something els, like 2 Aibrush clinics and a other project (not wood). Clear my mind and try to find a solution to restore my fault.
Thanks again for your motivational posts in my building log and PM. If you did not did that, I think that I never had the motivation to go on with this model..
- not always easy, but always necessary!
Hi Jim. Thank you for your contribution. The fairing area in green was not intended to show the area that will be covered at one time - it merely represents the TOTAL area that will be faired if you continue with linear fairing only - that is why doing it only like that, is not adequate. It was thus intended to show that following that process, would be incorrect. I agree 100% that the fairing tool has to cover three frames at the same time.
Great minds think alike Ron!View attachment 277626
Same here only on a lot smaller scale.
I must say your psychedelic-colored push pins are very snazzy - however those long-nosed clamps really look to be very handy to get into all those inaccessible places. I need to get some of those - so thank you for posting that picture and showing our members yet another variation on the correct theme to follow - it is much appreciated! 
Hans, you are right and it is yet another example of how we as modelers are trying to create perfect models of imperfect subjects in real life. We are a strange bunch of bunnies indeed!Then - to add some confusion in this nice fairing tutorial: the real Dutch ships from the 17th century were almost never exact symetrical
Great minds think alike Ron!
