HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)

[serikoff]

According to the anatomy drawings, the hold grating has a specific number of combs. By calculating them with a pitch and a size of 1 mm (precisely the right number), my grate ended up slightly smaller. I didn't mind, since the ship is already small. I thought there would be more space on the deck, but... it wasn't the case. Once I'd finished it, both in terms of the entire deck and the size of the sailor (figurine), I realized it was still a bit small...

I had to add another comb to both the width and the length (for proportion) and redesign the grating.

All the manipulations are practically the same as before, but I changed a few things to speed things up and simplify things... In particular, I defined the shape of the arch right away and then milled around it.













Due to constant power outages (war, shelling of our power plants...), I didn't notice that the cutter was pressed against a drop of glue and accidentally turned on the router... -8 euros...



























I will move the beam line a little back, and the rear support for the boat will be a little further from the mast, and will be more symmetrical, as it should have been originally.





And even though the grate will be barely visible under the boat and behind the supports, I'm still glad I redesigned it.

And the smaller one I made earlier will be used in the installation for the first skeletal hull.

The idea is this: the skeletal hull will be on a stand with frames and minimal planking. The deck will be laid out without planks. On it will be the frames without grates and windlasses, but without the gun carriages and cannons. And on the base plate of the storage box, I'll place the stove as a separate element, the gun carriage (maybe all 12, or at least one or two), and the anchors. Ropes will extend from the anchors and lead to this grate... and the ropes will dive into the rope holes. That's the idea. To show the hull as transparently as possible, but also to show what was inside it, but nearby on the plate...

 

[Albert Mary]

Mast and bowsprit.

Since I still haven't bought a lathe and need the parts now, I decided to make them myself. To do this, I first need to mark out the trapezoid shape from a rectangular blank.

View attachment 579580

View attachment 579581

Then, using an angle grinder, I make trapezoids from the rectangles, but so that their dimensions are 2 mm larger than the finished parts and, naturally, longer.

View attachment 579582

Then I mark the axles and screw in a screw on one side to secure the bearing I'll be holding. On the other side, I make a taper to fit the screwdriver.

View attachment 579583

But before the "turning work", if you can call it that, I first make an 8-sided polygon with a plane, then a 16-sided polygon, and bring the part closer to a cylinder.

View attachment 579584

Then I do as shown in the photo below. The key is to ensure the rotations of the screwdriver and grinder counter-rotate to achieve greater friction.

View attachment 579585

The method is, to put it mildly, specific, but the main thing is that the working friction zone is as in the photo below.

View attachment 579586

Just like in the good old days, I do everything on my knee)))) But here is the result:

View attachment 579587

View attachment 579588

By the way, this is my second attempt at making a mast... Initially, I made it out of dark pear wood and miscalculated the thickness, so I had to remove a little more than half a millimeter...

View attachment 579589

... and it would seem that half a millimeter is nothing, but feel the difference in volume.

View attachment 579590

I had to redo it, but I'm glad I did, because I didn't really like the dark version. It was spotty and had a pronounced pattern. But the biggest drawback is that dark pear wood is much more flexible than light wood. The bowsprit, which is thinner than the dark mast, is much stiffer. And this is important here, because standing rigging can significantly bend soft wood.

Especially since this will be the sixth shade of pear wood (in addition to the five already available) that will be used on the model.

Next, I aligned the bowsprit horizontally in a milling machine and made a square piece measuring 10.1 x 10.1 mm, which is a 1:48 scale. By the way, the deck will be 11.1 mm thick. I will update all the dimensions and drawings in the corresponding thread about this ship's rigging.

View attachment 579591

View attachment 579592

View attachment 579593

View attachment 579594

View attachment 579595

I didn't bother with the square section of the mast, as I didn't need it for the deck. I tapered it at the bottom so it would fit into the aluminum cylindrical holder inside the hull. First, I determined the center (axis) and mounted the mast on a milling machine, securing it at three points.

View attachment 579596

View attachment 579597

View attachment 579598

This method isn't suitable for the finished version; the milling cuts are wavy, which I filled with putty. But this section will be inside the hull and won't be visible... and the most important thing for me is to maintain the alignment of the axles, and I succeeded. The mast is vertical along the side.

View attachment 579599

View attachment 579600

The bowsprit is still longer and the frames need to be reduced so that it fits evenly, but I put it there to visualize the dimensions.

View attachment 579601

View attachment 579602

Next comes the anchor mechanism... and then we can finally set up all the nail positions on the deck.

Brilliant!