Beautiful work Sergey.
Bill
Bill
-
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HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)
An amazing job and a super explanation/pictures !!!
Thank you so much !
Thank you so much !
Friends, thank you all for your activity and likes!
Thank you all for the kind comments:
@dockattner @Peter Voogt @Corsair @GrantTyler @GIG1810 @RichardG @Bill-R @Chris B
It's a pleasure reading you, and it's motivating. Sorry I don't write to you often (translation difficulties, English isn't my native language), but I'm constantly following your updates and am thrilled by your progress!
Today I finished one side and am happy to share my progress with you:
The most difficult place, as I expected, is the connection of the second and 4th parts of the waterway through the 3rd part.
And at the same time, we still need to put up the last board...
But the principle is the same here. I cut out the second and fourth pieces and then scratch their profile onto the third piece. Then I cut out the board and scratch its profile onto the third waterway:
In the end, everything comes together, the main thing is to do it with a blade and not a pencil and adjust the filings with a file.
Now on one side everything is ready:
And now a couple of macro photos: the connection of the 1st and 2nd parts of the waterway:
... 2nd and 3rd:
... and 3rd and 4th:
Well, and the final one:
On the other hand, things will most likely go faster, since all the calculations have already been done, you just need to mirror them.
I'll show you when I've sanded the entire surface.
Thank you all for the kind comments:
@dockattner @Peter Voogt @Corsair @GrantTyler @GIG1810 @RichardG @Bill-R @Chris B
It's a pleasure reading you, and it's motivating. Sorry I don't write to you often (translation difficulties, English isn't my native language), but I'm constantly following your updates and am thrilled by your progress!
Today I finished one side and am happy to share my progress with you:
The most difficult place, as I expected, is the connection of the second and 4th parts of the waterway through the 3rd part.
And at the same time, we still need to put up the last board...
But the principle is the same here. I cut out the second and fourth pieces and then scratch their profile onto the third piece. Then I cut out the board and scratch its profile onto the third waterway:
In the end, everything comes together, the main thing is to do it with a blade and not a pencil and adjust the filings with a file.
Now on one side everything is ready:
And now a couple of macro photos: the connection of the 1st and 2nd parts of the waterway:
... 2nd and 3rd:
... and 3rd and 4th:
Well, and the final one:
On the other hand, things will most likely go faster, since all the calculations have already been done, you just need to mirror them.
I'll show you when I've sanded the entire surface.
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2021
- Messages
- 384
- Points
- 323
I will not build my alert 
I know that feeling.I will not build my alert
Well thought out technique, and great result. Excellent material as well. The grain size is just right.
Come on, I've seen your work, it's amazing. We have a saying: the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing it.I will not build my alert
When I look at the works of Shevelev or Bezverkhny or Epur and Paddon, I also feel sad, but then I understand that their work is motivation and I roll up my sleeves and shave left and right.I know that feeling.
If only you knew how much effort it took me to find the right pear. And how many samples and preparations I made, almost all of which ended up in the trash... but I'm glad my time wasn't wasted and you like the result.
Hey Sergey,
And I thought you were a machine that never makes mistakes!
To me, your mistake with the water walk isn't a mistake at all... It looks wonderful!
In short... I couldn't resist... and I redid my mistake. It was so glaring and it really bothered me, so I decided to...
I carefully used a knife to pry the board up, then slowly moved forward with a straight screwdriver, twisting it slightly, to remove it without damaging it. I decided to replace it entirely, rather than fragment it, and then use it on the other side when it's the right length.
I transferred the form to a new blank and after adjusting it, everything became as it was.
At the back, I cut the board further (this way it would end slightly narrower, as in the anatomy diagram). Then I transferred its outline to the waterway in the same way and...
... I cut out the excess. And here's a comparison of how it was and how it is now:
It took little time and it put my mind at ease because now I like the way it looks.
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2024
- Messages
- 890
- Points
- 353
Yes, I agree Sergey, it looks much better. When you first mentioned it, I thought you meant this area:
I assumed that all the planks were long and that you would be trimming them all together, so I could not see why that mattered ... but now I see what you meant. The repair was worth it.
Yes, this area will be trimmed after sanding, as the edges of the boards will be rounded during sanding. To ensure a 90-degree angle, I'll trim off the excess after sanding. Where the exclamation mark appears, I'll be attaching a temporary waterwall around the perimeter. This will also serve as an extension of the sanding surface, and it will also be rounded. I'll remove it later and install a real waterwall that will fit snugly against the deck boards. I'll explain this in more detail later.
I decided to take a break from the deck for a bit and today I developed some plans for the carpenter who volunteered to help me with the workspace under the router. I'm planning to build a table-drawer for the router and a storage box for it out of 2mm plywood, as it's becoming permanent and the original box won't work anymore. I'm not sure how this will all work yet, but I hope the carpenter will be able to help.
I also calculated the base plate for the models that will be covered with an acrylic cap, but this issue has not yet been finally resolved, as well as the question of how to implement the stand for the models.
I'd like to make a very simple stand, one that won't be too distracting. I'd either like the one in the photo: with a central section at an angle and two pieces on the sides that hold it in place. Or just the central section, which will simply protrude from the base plate. The edges of all the pieces haven't been finished yet, and I have no idea how to trim them or at what angle. Basically, I don't know anything yet. The only thing I've decided for sure is that the stand will be at an angle and parallel to the keel, and the columns that hold the model will be perpendicular to the keel, not the horizon.
I also haven't decided yet how the columns will look better:
As from above - parallel to the second-to-last paired frames... or
As from below - parallel to the last paired frames.
The difference in the distance between the columns... and in theory I thought one at a time, but after testing it in practice my opinion changed... so now I'm thinking which is better.
I also calculated the base plate for the models that will be covered with an acrylic cap, but this issue has not yet been finally resolved, as well as the question of how to implement the stand for the models.
I'd like to make a very simple stand, one that won't be too distracting. I'd either like the one in the photo: with a central section at an angle and two pieces on the sides that hold it in place. Or just the central section, which will simply protrude from the base plate. The edges of all the pieces haven't been finished yet, and I have no idea how to trim them or at what angle. Basically, I don't know anything yet.
The only thing I've decided for sure is that the stand will be at an angle and parallel to the keel, and the columns that hold the model will be perpendicular to the keel, not the horizon.I also haven't decided yet how the columns will look better:
As from above - parallel to the second-to-last paired frames... or
As from below - parallel to the last paired frames.
The difference in the distance between the columns... and in theory I thought one at a time, but after testing it in practice my opinion changed... so now I'm thinking which is better.
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2022
- Messages
- 980
- Points
- 353
So Sergey,
you're a machine... You showed courage and really remade the plank. I would have been afraid to destroy this beautiful plank walkway or to reinstall it uncleanly. Hats off and well done.
About your slanted ship stand. I find the idea charming. The shape of the Alert alone would make this a good choice. You should just be careful that it doesn't look like a rocket launch pad and that the Alert is about to take off. Maybe the angle is too steep... In any case, I would make it less steep so that the deck runs parallel to the ship stand. (I hope you understand what I mean. Please excuse my poor English)...
you're a machine...
You showed courage and really remade the plank. I would have been afraid to destroy this beautiful plank walkway or to reinstall it uncleanly. Hats off and well done.About your slanted ship stand. I find the idea charming. The shape of the Alert alone would make this a good choice. You should just be careful that it doesn't look like a rocket launch pad and that the Alert is about to take off. Maybe the angle is too steep... In any case, I would make it less steep so that the deck runs parallel to the ship stand. (I hope you understand what I mean. Please excuse my poor English)...
Thank you. I also thought it wasn't a given that I'd be able to attach the same board, but it worked. In fact, this angle wasn't chosen arbitrarily—it precisely matches the waterline. That is, the ship's keel was diagonal to the horizon. And this angle should be exactly as I did, no more, no less.So Sergey,
you're a machine...
About your slanted ship stand. I find the idea charming. The shape of the Alert alone would make this a good choice. You should just be careful that it doesn't look like a rocket launch pad and that the Alert is about to take off. Maybe the angle is too steep... In any case, I would make it less steep so that the deck runs parallel to the ship stand. (I hope you understand what I mean. Please excuse my poor English)...
I finally finished the waterway today. Due to the slight asymmetry of the hull, the middle section of the waterway is slightly thinner on one side. But even I, a meticulous person, wasn't too upset by this, as it won't be noticeable at all once it's secured, especially with cannons and cannonball racks on deck.
Now, all you have to do is glue the waterway in place and cover it with a protective strip before sanding, and sand it to a mirror finish... and the deck will be ready... finally.
Now, all you have to do is glue the waterway in place and cover it with a protective strip before sanding, and sand it to a mirror finish... and the deck will be ready... finally.
absolutely beautiful !
Gorgeous deck and very neat waterways. Very well done.
