WOW! Sergey, you totally owned this. Cheers Grant
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HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)
Bowsprit Pins.
Before I can finally start nailing the deck, I need to determine the position of all the useful parts on it. Today, Pins.
This is the second and last time I've tried this burr, and it's going in the trash. Just junk...
I decided to make a simple jig. The principle is simple: sandpaper is glued to a cylinder, which moves precisely along a single path, limited by positioners.
To correctly locate the pins, you first need to accurately position the bowsprit and then determine the correct position of the pins.
After determining the dimensions, the next step is simple processing according to the drawings.
Fitting:
The result after treatment with 000 steel wool. I highly recommend using it for finishing the parts! Specifically, from Borma Wachs.
This isn't the final work yet. The forward parts will still need milling. The lower parts will be reinforced with pins through which they will be glued to the deck. All current work is aimed at precisely positioning the nails on the deck boards.
And now, another fitting:
I'm a little surprised myself that it turned out this way. After the boron fiasco, I thought I'd never achieve such a result...
Before I can finally start nailing the deck, I need to determine the position of all the useful parts on it. Today, Pins.
This is the second and last time I've tried this burr, and it's going in the trash. Just junk...
I decided to make a simple jig. The principle is simple: sandpaper is glued to a cylinder, which moves precisely along a single path, limited by positioners.
To correctly locate the pins, you first need to accurately position the bowsprit and then determine the correct position of the pins.
After determining the dimensions, the next step is simple processing according to the drawings.
Fitting:
The result after treatment with 000 steel wool. I highly recommend using it for finishing the parts! Specifically, from Borma Wachs.
This isn't the final work yet. The forward parts will still need milling. The lower parts will be reinforced with pins through which they will be glued to the deck. All current work is aimed at precisely positioning the nails on the deck boards.
And now, another fitting:
I'm a little surprised myself that it turned out this way. After the boron fiasco, I thought I'd never achieve such a result...
Some very nice made bitts, Sergey. And again a well documented production process.
Regards, Peter
As always, your work continues to be top notch ! Beautiful !
Friends, thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you like it, I'll try to keep up the good work.
A small addition to the previous post.
All parts are made primarily to understand their placement on the deck, their dimensions, and their relationship to each other. Since there are no precise drawings (only the anatomy), this is essential.
The red square holes are for the pins that hold the bowsprit in place. They should be through-holes, but for a neat fit, I'll install the pins on top. I'll reinforce the connection with pins that I'll glue into the pins. Holes will be drilled in the deck for these pins, and below, they'll fit into the load-bearing plates under the deck.
The blue squares (large and small) are simply placed on top of the deck, as in the original. The green ones should be through-holes, but since there's no load on them, I'll simply glue them on top of the deck so there's no need to cut anything.
After all this, I calculated the nail positions, which is essentially what I planned.
As for the pins on the first unit, all the manipulations are the same. The one exception is horizontal routing, since the entire height of the piece doesn't fit under the router.
So, as they say, feel the difference...
Unfortunately, the lower parts are completely different from the original, as they're cut into the beam, which is unacceptable, but that's how it is.
I made a slightly different shape for the top... And I still can't decide which one I like best. I'm thinking maybe trimming the top rectangle off the second unit's kit a bit. So that its height matches that of the first unit... hmm...
So, here's the result:
Yes, unfortunately, there is a cut into the beam, but as I said, I won't change it. Everything is as it should be on the second unit, and that's more important to me.
Oh yeah, and the distance between the pins is 8mm, not 10mm as it should be, but this can't be changed because there's a cut into the beam...
All parts are made primarily to understand their placement on the deck, their dimensions, and their relationship to each other. Since there are no precise drawings (only the anatomy), this is essential.
The red square holes are for the pins that hold the bowsprit in place. They should be through-holes, but for a neat fit, I'll install the pins on top. I'll reinforce the connection with pins that I'll glue into the pins. Holes will be drilled in the deck for these pins, and below, they'll fit into the load-bearing plates under the deck.
The blue squares (large and small) are simply placed on top of the deck, as in the original. The green ones should be through-holes, but since there's no load on them, I'll simply glue them on top of the deck so there's no need to cut anything.
After all this, I calculated the nail positions, which is essentially what I planned.
As for the pins on the first unit, all the manipulations are the same. The one exception is horizontal routing, since the entire height of the piece doesn't fit under the router.
So, as they say, feel the difference...
Unfortunately, the lower parts are completely different from the original, as they're cut into the beam, which is unacceptable, but that's how it is.
I made a slightly different shape for the top... And I still can't decide which one I like best. I'm thinking maybe trimming the top rectangle off the second unit's kit a bit. So that its height matches that of the first unit... hmm...
So, here's the result:
Yes, unfortunately, there is a cut into the beam, but as I said, I won't change it. Everything is as it should be on the second unit, and that's more important to me.
Oh yeah, and the distance between the pins is 8mm, not 10mm as it should be, but this can't be changed because there's a cut into the beam...
Last edited:
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Nice 
BTW what speed are you using on the Proxxon?
BTW what speed are you using on the Proxxon?
I mainly use only three Proxxon 27116 router bits (1, 2, and 3 mm) at 16,000 RPM. I need to significantly reduce the speed for round wood burrs, right down to minimum, and for drill bits, I set it to minimum, and even then, it can burn out at greater depths. But for routing, the Proxxon 27116 set is ideal.Nice
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There exist an original drawing at the NMM (ZAZ7911) which is showing lot of the deck and the deckbeams
What I mean is that I don't invent the placement of things on the deck, but rather calculate them on the spot to ensure the nails are exactly where they should be. Without an accurate 1:1 drawing, this is impossible, even if there are scale drawings. Any millimeter to the right or left and the nails will be out of place, and it will be noticeable. Therefore, it's better to make all the parts, then position them as accurately as possible on the deck, record this location, and then calculate the positions of all the nails based on that. No one will notice if a random grid is shifted by 1 mm, but if the nails next to it are shifted by that millimeter, it will immediately catch the eye. And in an ideal world, yes, you would first model a 1:1 plan and calculate everything, and then strictly follow those calculations, but that's not my case. It's important to me that the appearance of the model is such that anyone looking at it won't notice any flaws or errors.