HMS Beagle - Occre by TedR

[Ted Robinson]

I'm in the uk, so any recommendation on brands of stains and varnishes will be irrelevant... but my current favourite finish for light wood (eg, Beagle deck) would be to dilute a "medium oak" water-based stain 1:3 stain:water to give the deck a wash. The colour will seep between the boards and colour up the joins between the planks, to look like caulk. Sand the deck down lightly with fine sandpaper to bring out the grain, then finish with a water-based matt varnish.
The advantage of the water-based products is that they don't stink the house out.

When I did my Beagle, I used the satin varnish in the paint pack for the deck and it looked awful and plasticky (although the satin varnish looked good on the hull).

However, if you ask 10 other modellers for their favourite finishes, you'll get at least 11 different answers.

I think the YouTube video instructions are OK until you get to the rigging stage, and then, well, there's lots of us on SOS here who can offer help if you're struggling with the utterly incomprehensible instructions.

I didn't get much done today. I finished planking the stern raised deck. That's it

 

[Timothy9]

Starting a new build is exciting. All possibilities are positive and the model hasn't had a chance to beat me up yet.
My kit won't arrive until Friday the 20th.
In frustration and that urge to build something I purchased a Metal Earth P47 mini kit. My eyes just aren't to to it. I then purchased a vintage Revell Cutty Sark. I built this kit one winter in Columbus Ohio half a century ago. That has been delayed in shipping too.
I was able to download the Marquardt AOTS on the Beagle. Doing an initial read on it now. I'll go back and study it this week. Another great adventure awaits.
Happy modelling,
Ted

I’m reading a short biography of Charles Darwin by David Quammen, a very fine science writer. I built Mamoli’s Beagle years ago but the instructions were very vague and being inexperienced, it was a challenge. Occre kits are light years ahead, in my opinion. Enjoy it!

 

[Ted Robinson]

I’m reading a short biography of Charles Darwin by David Quammen, a very fine science writer. I built Mamoli’s Beagle years ago but the instructions were very vague and being inexperienced, it was a challenge. Occre kits are light years ahead, in my opinion. Enjoy it!

I'm having a wonderful time building this Beagle. I'm starting the recessed deck walls at bothe ends. I'm going to plank them before installing them to make it easier. I

 

[Ted Robinson]

I have some cracks between decking planks scattered over the deck. Should I use some PVA glue and sand/fill them or leave them as is.

 

[CoastHiker]

Yes, my preferred method here is to dab some pva into the cracks, then immediately sand the timber, and the dust will stick to the pva in the cracks. Instant filler.

Bear in mind that by the time you've finished the model, there's so much stuff on the deck that you won't be able to see much of it anyway. No need to overthink this stage.
Full steam ahead!!!

 

[Ted Robinson]

Yes, my preferred method here is to dab some pva into the cracks, then immediately sand the timber, and the dust will stick to the pva in the cracks. Instant filler.

Bear in mind that by the time you've finished the model, there's so much stuff on the deck that you won't be able to see much of it anyway. No need to overthink this stage.
Full steam ahead!!!

I like that. I'm going to be done with the decks today

 

[Ted Robinson]

Foredeck in place. Cabin walls complete in forecastle.

 

[Ted Robinson]

Got the last little bits of the cabinet walls installed. Need to plank them and the glue on the poop deck. Nap time first. I have to go to the optometrist this after and that's always tiring

 

[Ted Robinson]

Finished planking cabin walls. A little trimming and sanding and I'll install the doors. Planking definitely begins tomorrow. The fairing shouldn't take top.long.on a model this small

 

[Ted Robinson]

I d run into my first problem. The doors are photo etch. I can't leave them brass but don't really have anything to finish them with except some acrylic paint on tubes. I have the basic colors of ochres and siennas. If I wait they won't be accessable because they are recessed. I have no experience at doing fake wood finishes but am thinking to.do some.soert of a base coat followed by maybe drybrushing a top coat to get some sort of a grain pattern. I can sort this out while I'm fairing the hull frames. The first two photos show the full extent of the tools I'm building with.

 

[Pepite 1/60]

I d run into my first problem. The doors are photo etch. I can't leave them brass but don't really have anything to finish them with except some acrylic paint on tubes. I have the basic colors of ochres and siennas. If I wait they won't be accessable because they are recessed. I have no experience at doing fake wood finishes but am thinking to.do some.soert of a base coat followed by maybe drybrushing a top coat to get some sort of a grain pattern. I can sort this out while I'm fairing the hull frames. The first two photos show the full extent of the tools I'm building with.View attachment 586780View attachment 586781View attachment 586779

Hi, you could build nicer ones from 2nd planking and deck planking stock.

 

[CoastHiker]

I remember thinking the same at this stage- I fussed around with a fake wood finish. But in the end, when you've added all the deck fixtures, masts, ship's boat, rigging... you can barely see any of these doors anyway.
Different modellers have different attitudes to this stuff, some people spend days, or weeks, on details that will never be seen- for the sheer joy of it and the satisfaction of a job well done. I say: if it can't be seen, it's not worth worrying about it. If you've got the Occre paint set, I'd paint the doors with their ochre, which is light brown, then make up a darker shade mixing a touch of black with some ochre, and paint the panels and surround of the door with the darker colour. It won't look brilliant, but then you can push forward with the rest of the build.
I felt the same with the stairs, which are brass... I just painted mine ochre and shaded them with a bit of darker brown. Maybe in future, I'd buy more paints and learn wood-effect finishes, but it's definitely more fun just pushing ahead with the planking and hull finish than getting bogged down in these details.

 

[Ted Robinson]

I remember thinking the same at this stage- I fussed around with a fake wood finish. But in the end, when you've added all the deck fixtures, masts, ship's boat, rigging... you can barely see any of these doors anyway.
Different modellers have different attitudes to this stuff, some people spend days, or weeks, on details that will never be seen- for the sheer joy of it and the satisfaction of a job well done. I say: if it can't be seen, it's not worth worrying about it. If you've got the Occre paint set, I'd paint the doors with their ochre, which is light brown, then make up a darker shade mixing a touch of black with some ochre, and paint the panels and surround of the door with the darker colour. It won't look brilliant, but then you can push forward with the rest of the build.
I felt the same with the stairs, which are brass... I just painted mine ochre and shaded them with a bit of darker brown. Maybe in future, I'd buy more paints and learn wood-effect finishes, but it's definitely more fun just pushing ahead with the planking and hull finish than getting bogged down in these details.

Once again I'll follow your advice and use what I have on the hand to keep the build going .

 

[Ted Robinson]

Call it Minimalist but it's done. Just. Washed in some burnt umber l. Left it streaky because it just looked like a lump when solid. Pressing on.

 

[Ted Robinson]

Done.

 

[Ted Robinson]

Poop deck installed. Starting bulkwarks

 

[Rob444]

Poop deck installed. Starting bulkwarks View attachment 587125

Those doors are definitely acceptable!

 

[Ted Robinson]

Those doors are definitely acceptable!

At first I was going to try and improve them. But decided sometimes it's best to just leave it alone. Thanks for the thumbs up to set my mind at ease.

 

[Ted Robinson]

The instructional photos provided show a method of planking the hull I've never seen before. I don't see much, if any, tapering of the strakes. There a quite a few strakes that taper to a point without ending at a frame. What do you guys think?

 

[Pepite 1/60]

The instructional photos provided shoView attachment 587152View attachment 587153w a method of planking the hull I've never seen before. I don't see much, if any, tapering of the strakes. There a quite a few strakes that taper to a point without ending at a frame. What do you guys think?

Not much. Better treat you first planking layer as a welcome practice ground for the final one, do it as good as you possibly can instead of just as fast as possible. It's a nice and slow hobby, not a speed contest!