The next working step was the installation of the planks for the gangways and the two skidbeams
Starting with the planking of the wales of the HMS Triton, planking on the height of the gunports and the trims
the wood is ivory, not easy to work with, you get dirty hands during sanding etc. but a beautiful timber when it is
installed.
and here the view from the ourside
the wood is ivory, not easy to work with, you get dirty hands during sanding etc. but a beautiful timber when it is
installed.
and here the view from the ourside
Beginning of the "normal" planking of the HMS Triton hull,
the first plank named Garboard Strake with the direct contact inside the rabbet, the notch inside the keel,
the second plank named Broad Strake and so on
to be continued.....
the first plank named Garboard Strake with the direct contact inside the rabbet, the notch inside the keel,
the second plank named Broad Strake and so on
to be continued.....
This is one idea, how you can show the structure of the frames under the hull planking.
Remark: The window and the necessary planking is not showing a realistic planking, so there would be never a plank midship which has only a length over two frames. It is pure artificial way for such a window......
Also started is the nailing of the planks.
Remark: The window and the necessary planking is not showing a realistic planking, so there would be never a plank midship which has only a length over two frames. It is pure artificial way for such a window......
Also started is the nailing of the planks.
To show the different ways of wood protection of the outside planking at the time of the sailing ships,
it was decided to make one half of the Triton section with a coppering sheating
and the other half painted with "white stuff".......
The copper sheating will come in one of the next posts
it was decided to make one half of the Triton section with a coppering sheating
and the other half painted with "white stuff".......
The copper sheating will come in one of the next posts
And the other side of the HMS Triton section - with copper planking
Hi Uwe,
How is the copper planking done?
How is the copper planking done?
In the evening I will look, if I can find the old jig with which I made the nailing pattern of the plates.
If yes I will show you the different working steps in photos ......hope that I can make it.......
If yes I will show you the different working steps in photos ......hope that I can make it.......
Hello @Pathfinder65 , here is link about the copper plating.
https://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/single-post/2017/05/29/Copper-Plating-Techniques
Zoltan
https://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/single-post/2017/05/29/Copper-Plating-Techniques
Zoltan
Hi Zoltan,
Thank you for the link.
Thank you for the link.
Thanks for showing this possibilities......I did it a little bit different, hope to add this to the possible methods.
I was following the way how Bernard Froelich is showing it in his book „The Art of Shipmodelling“, which can find also in the book reviews area.....
Like I promissed yesterday i was looking for the jigs and finally found the jigs I used for the coppering of the HMS Triton.
First trials were with this roller I made with an older (i Think Proxxon) saw blade of a circular saw.
....much more teeth, than the usual rollers, usable for smaller scales
another jig I made, but were not happy with the result is this one
So finally I went to Bernhard Froelich´s way he showed in his book
first of all you need a stamp rectangular shape and install small nails in the pattern you need, cutted heads and flatten the cut as much as possible, so that the nails are not making holes in the copper. These are the "fathers" of the jig
On the top is the jig used with the Triton of this building log, on the left side every time as an example the copper plate as a result. On this Triton the copper tin was a little bit too thick, in the meantime I am using thinner copper with better results, one example I will show you later
Now we come to the "mother". You have to produce a block with a notch in the size of your standard copper plates, in this notch a stiff and hard rubber block has to be installed and fixed.
from the copper sheets you have to cut with a sharp knife or tin scissor the copper plates
Put one copper plate into the jig, means on top of the rubber, into the mother
on top the father with the nails in direction of the copper
put this into your plain vice.....the pressure you have to check and make some trails......with mor preassure the nail pattern is getting more intensive
and the result, put the nailed copper plate out of the jig
I made this photos fastly yesterday evening in order to show the principle.....hope this is helping
First trials were with this roller I made with an older (i Think Proxxon) saw blade of a circular saw.
....much more teeth, than the usual rollers, usable for smaller scales
another jig I made, but were not happy with the result is this one
So finally I went to Bernhard Froelich´s way he showed in his book
first of all you need a stamp rectangular shape and install small nails in the pattern you need, cutted heads and flatten the cut as much as possible, so that the nails are not making holes in the copper. These are the "fathers" of the jig
On the top is the jig used with the Triton of this building log, on the left side every time as an example the copper plate as a result. On this Triton the copper tin was a little bit too thick, in the meantime I am using thinner copper with better results, one example I will show you later
Now we come to the "mother". You have to produce a block with a notch in the size of your standard copper plates, in this notch a stiff and hard rubber block has to be installed and fixed.
from the copper sheets you have to cut with a sharp knife or tin scissor the copper plates
Put one copper plate into the jig, means on top of the rubber, into the mother
on top the father with the nails in direction of the copper
put this into your plain vice.....the pressure you have to check and make some trails......with mor preassure the nail pattern is getting more intensive
and the result, put the nailed copper plate out of the jig
I made this photos fastly yesterday evening in order to show the principle.....hope this is helping
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Due to the fact, that I was not so happy with the coppering I made another HMS Triton Section model,
with a different coppering of the hull. Unfortunately I never finished this model, but the coppering was finalized.
Here I used the other nailing jig and thinner copper material
with a different coppering of the hull. Unfortunately I never finished this model, but the coppering was finalized.
Here I used the other nailing jig and thinner copper material
Hi Uwe,
Thank you for showing and explaining your methods. I think the last Triton set of copper plates looks much better than the first. It’s interesting to see the amount of imagineering that this hobby requires to accomplish a task.
Thank you for showing and explaining your methods. I think the last Triton set of copper plates looks much better than the first. It’s interesting to see the amount of imagineering that this hobby requires to accomplish a task.
After the excursion to the copper planking back to the construction of the Triton section by itself
the entry steps installed
and also the Fenders
all these parts were made out of ebony
the entry steps installed
and also the Fenders
all these parts were made out of ebony
Today I want to show you the preparation and construction of the guns of the HMS Triton.....
The prepared brackets and the wheels / trucks cutted off from a rod.
The design of the cannons was based on the often shown and used Harold M. Hahn "Design of Eighteenth Century naval gun for ship models"
and with the bolster and stool bed
Many thanks for your interest.....to be continued.....
The prepared brackets and the wheels / trucks cutted off from a rod.
The design of the cannons was based on the often shown and used Harold M. Hahn "Design of Eighteenth Century naval gun for ship models"
and with the bolster and stool bed
Many thanks for your interest.....to be continued.....
Today I want to show you the guns with the 9pdr caliber.....
The HMS Triton 1771 was a Mermaid-class frigate which were a group of six 28-gun frigates of the sixth rate designed in 1760 by Sir Thomas Slade,
based on the scaled-down lines of HMS Aurora (originally a French prize, L'Abénaquise, which had been captured in 1757).
Her armament was
and from 1780
Many thanks for your interest....to be continued
The HMS Triton 1771 was a Mermaid-class frigate which were a group of six 28-gun frigates of the sixth rate designed in 1760 by Sir Thomas Slade,
based on the scaled-down lines of HMS Aurora (originally a French prize, L'Abénaquise, which had been captured in 1757).
Her armament was
- UD: 24 × 9-pounder guns
- QD: 4 × 3-pounder guns
and from 1780
- UD: 24 × 9-pounder guns
- QD 4 × 6-pounder guns and 18-pounder carronades
- FC: 2 × 18-pounder carronades
Many thanks for your interest....to be continued
Some rigging / tackles for the guns under preparation
The hooks were bended out of small steel nails
and installed at the gun carriage
The hooks were bended out of small steel nails
and installed at the gun carriage
Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Uwe
Thanks for sharing your cross section build, you sure did come up with some very interesting solutions, ENJOY.
Regards Lawrence
Thanks for sharing your cross section build, you sure did come up with some very interesting solutions, ENJOY.
Regards Lawrence
