• Ships of Scale has incorportated an extra level of security when you log In. Please follow on-screen prompts to acknowledge that you are not a robot via a "Check Box" or a "Pictorial Check Box Puzzle". This is needed due to higher level of AI Activity Security.
  • SUBSCRIBE TO SHIPS IN SCALE TODAY!

    The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026!
    Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue.

    NOTE THAT OUR NEXT ISSUE WILL BE July/August 2026
  • Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
    As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.

Hms Victory by Caldercraft

Bit of quarterdeck work...i was getting tired of some nitpicking really trivial criticism then discovered I could ignore the member and not see their posts...LOL Great facility. I welcome suggestiions on how to do things better but every build is, in the end, an individual kit bash not a graduate paper in historical accuracy. That said I do try to get the history right if I can..eg..i have painted Admiral Paints 45% Yellow Ochre mixed with 55% Flat White, and the area commonly black wasn't really and I have used charcoal...( It is Vallejo Dark Grey) it looks good but to be honest I think I should have either gone a shade darker or mixed in a bit of dull black...but it is done. Mixing in a splash of Admiralty Dull Black would have been the right option.

20260331_165010.jpg20260331_165015.jpg20260331_165026.jpg
Incidentally it is not at all important but there is, I believe, an error in the plans which show poop deck support 38 positioned behind bulkhead (17 ?) or what ever..it clearly needs to be in front. Ans as you csan see I have followed the plans, the instructions, and the history with mitred corners.




20260331_165036.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well into the standing rigging now, very hard to take good photos of this stuff...but here are a couple. One thing I am a strong believer in is that many kits (including Victory) have you doing the main shrouds very early right at the start of the standing rigging. From my experience this is a terrible idea and I do them as late in the standing rigging as possible certainly after all the stays and preventers are installed. Why would you try and do all that stuff reaching around and through the shrouds.?

20260819_155814.jpg


20260819_155819.jpg
 
Thanks Bryian value your always encouraging comments.I am realistic about my need to kit bash a bit with age and dodgy fingers ..cant tie mouses so kit bash with brass rings... but a few of those things aside it has been a huge job, much more than I expected. At least an 18 mth project. I need to do something completely different next.. Amati "big" J4 Endeavour. 1: 35. When the partner discovers the size I will have some challenges...LOL
 
mallacoota said:
Well into the standing rigging now, very hard to take good photos of this stuff...but here are a couple. One thing I am a strong believer in is that many kits (including Victory) have you doing the main shrouds very early right at the start of the standing rigging. From my experience this is a terrible idea and I do them as late in the standing rigging as possible certainly after all the stays and preventers are installed. Why would you try and do all that stuff reaching around and through the shrouds.?

View attachment 628105


View attachment 628106
Click to expand...
That’s a valuable point… Since, unlike on a real ship, we usually glue the masts in place, there’s really nothing stopping us from installing the shrouds later — in whatever way is most convenient for the modeler.
 
Not particularly into criticising Caldercraft but a couple of thoughts come to mind..

Great...
Best rigging thread...like Amati but even better.
Great plans
Quality wood in good supply
Good instructions ..not perfect but good..they do presume a fair bit of knowledge about the obscure parts of ships like Victory but I guess it is an advanced kit so fair enough
Good precut laser panels
Accurate parts in general
Good support...I emailed them a question and got an answer back same day.

Not Great
spar/stun loop cast fittings bad...i find the whole "white metal"casting thing pretty hopeless really. Most of it OK admit.
deadeye strops really poor, just wrongly sized... smaller 3mm ones useless on mast tops in my opinion. This would easily be biggest single "fail" The main ones dont protrude far enough thru the channels to be captured by the chains or chainplates on main channels too. Had to strop mine with cord. Can be done of course but shouldnt be necessary....yeah I know its an advanced kit.

Not much on the negative side is there...plenty of scope for advanced skills well beyond mine so I wouldnt hesitate to recommend provided you have 18 mths free. It is a big project, you can grow old doing it...!!!
 
mallacoota said:
Not particularly into criticising Caldercraft but a couple of thoughts come to mind..

Great...
Best rigging thread...like Amati but even better.
Great plans
Quality wood in good supply
Good instructions ..not perfect but good..they do presume a fair bit of knowledge about the obscure parts of ships like Victory but I guess it is an advanced kit so fair enough
Good precut laser panels
Accurate parts in general
Good support...I emailed them a question and got an answer back same day.

Not Great
spar/stun loop cast fittings bad...i find the whole "white metal"casting thing pretty hopeless really. Most of it OK admit.
deadeye strops really poor, just wrongly sized... smaller 3mm ones useless on mast tops in my opinion. This would easily be biggest single "fail" The main ones dont protrude far enough thru the channels to be captured by the chains or chainplates on main channels too. Had to strop mine with cord. Can be done of course but shouldnt be necessary....yeah I know its an advanced kit.

Not much on the negative side is there...plenty of scope for advanced skills well beyond mine so I wouldnt hesitate to recommend provided you have 18 mths free. It is a big project, you can grow old doing it...!!!
Click to expand...
I agree with you in the whole, but not 100% on some wood quality & pre-cut parts, as some CNC ones are cross grain & fall apart, no matter how carefully handled. One would, in this day & age, expect casting to be much better produced. As you say deadeye strops are poor being made with flat brass which does not like being bent edge-wise - I prefer to make my own from round section.., although Amati ones do protrude through the channels further. My Vic has been put on hold so far this year - got a bit frustrating!
Stuart
 
mallacoota said:
Well into the standing rigging now, very hard to take good photos of this stuff...but here are a couple. One thing I am a strong believer in is that many kits (including Victory) have you doing the main shrouds very early right at the start of the standing rigging. From my experience this is a terrible idea and I do them as late in the standing rigging as possible certainly after all the stays and preventers are installed. Why would you try and do all that stuff reaching around and through the shrouds.?

View attachment 628105


View attachment 628106
Click to expand...
I am with Bryian here- lovely work
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top