Integration of 3D Modeling and Printing of plastic details into Wooden Ship Model Construction (HMS Victory | Cutter Alert) by Serikoff

[Huc Bernard]

Je n'ai jamais réussi à imprimer plus finement. Au-delà, ça casse.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

c'est beau

 

[Philski]

I think they would print ok with a decent resin printer.

So, this morning, I drew a belaying pin in Fusion 360 totally freehand, not to any spec. Just eyeballed it. I can add accuracy and detail later. I then created and STL file of the pin and took it into my 3D Slicer. (Anycubic Workshop). I scaled the pin to 30mm and then scaled another down to 4mm and put them side by side. They would print. Maybe after I try doing a couple of different replicas of pins and scaled them to a few different sizes, I might try printing some and see what happens. I would choose a resin that is tough and can create detail - most likely Craftsman DLP resin (it has an amount of ceramic in it too). There are other resins that would provide flexibility and toughness too.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

So, this morning, I drew a belaying pin in Fusion 360 totally freehand, not to any spec. Just eyeballed it. I can add accuracy and detail later. I then created and STL file of the pin and took it into my 3D Slicer. (Anycubic Workshop). I scaled the pin to 30mm and then scaled another down to 4mm and put them side by side. They would print. Maybe after I try doing a couple of different replicas of pins and scaled them to a few different sizes, I might try printing some and see what happens. I would choose a resin that is tough and can create detail - most likely Craftsman DLP resin (it has an amount of ceramic in it too). There are other resins that would provide flexibility and toughness too.View attachment 500928

I wonder how many you can print at the same time? That would be something to look at, I think.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Until I win a lottery I’ve given up on that. I bought a budget handheld model last year but sold it on within a few months. Nowhere near sophisticated enough for our game. I imagine pro-quality gear does a better job but suspect you would still need to put in many hours converting the scan if dimensional accuracy mattered (which it did for me).

I need to sit down and see what I can do with it. Right now it`s in a box collecting dust...

 

[Huc Bernard]

I wonder how many you can print at the same time? That would be something to look at, I think.

 

[Philski]

I wonder how many you can print at the same time? That would be something to look at, I think.

a bunch! and I would probably print a range of sizes.

 

[Philski]

So I redrew a pin then printed a few. I took a few pictures with my SLR camera and will work on those tomorrow. But I grabber a couple of pics with this Galaxy tablet. Show here. I started with 25mm, then down to 20, 15, 10 5 and even 4mm. In keeping with scale tge 4 and 5mm pins are very small and the pins themselves, to scale are about as thick as a human hair. I do't know how you would ever wrap rigging around such a tiny pin. These pics do not show the smallest pins - I'll show them here tomorrow.

 

[Kevin the Lubber]

When I printed them, the problem was not in the printing itself, but in the fact that if the thickness of the part is 0.1-0.2 mm, it can deform and bend during the final processing (while raw) and break (after exposure), so you need to intentionally slightly increase some parts for reinforcement and for banal visualization, since very small details will not be visible on the model.

I wanted to come back to this. Parts can shrink and deform both during printing and post-processing. In my experience, most of the shrinkage occurs during printing and, if dimensional accuracy is critical, you need to play with the xyz scale settings in your slicer once you know, from a test print, what's happening. Be aware that shrinkage is not necessarily uniform, it depends on factors such as the object shape and design, orientation on the print plate, nature and extent of supports, even resin temperature, so you may need to make different adjustments for each axis. And of course this can have you chasing your tail.

I have found that it is best to process thin section prints immediately after the print sequence has completed. Leaving ultra-thin things to sit on the plate for a couple of hours, perhaps as a way of letting the wet resin drain off, can lead to distortion. Even the breeze from the printer fan can cause thin sections of wet resin to deform.

Parts can also deform during cleanup. I do my IPA wash sequence while the parts are still attached to the plate. Small parts are bound to get damaged if they are rattling around in the cage. It also cleans up the plate for later use.

I mix resins to try to get the properties I most need for a part. Typically, I mix standard resin with ABS-like to get more rigidity but still with enough flex. I find standard resin is usually too brittle and elegoo ABS is too bendy, but a blend gives a nice result. Ultra-fine parts are always going to be very fragile though. For window bars or lattices, adding 'glass' can help.

 

[Philski]

I wanted to come back to this. Parts can shrink and deform both during printing and post-processing. In my experience, most of the shrinkage occurs during printing and, if dimensional accuracy is critical, you need to play with the xyz scale settings in your slicer once you know, from a test print, what's happening. Be aware that shrinkage is not necessarily uniform, it depends on factors such as the object shape and design, orientation on the print plate, nature and extent of supports, even resin temperature, so you may need to make different adjustments for each axis. And of course this can have you chasing your tail.

I have found that it is best to process thin section prints immediately after the print sequence has completed. Leaving ultra-thin things to sit on the plate for a couple of hours, perhaps as a way of letting the wet resin drain off, can lead to distortion. Even the breeze from the printer fan can cause thin sections of wet resin to deform.

Parts can also deform during cleanup. I do my IPA wash sequence while the parts are still attached to the plate. Small parts are bound to get damaged if they are rattling around in the cage. It also cleans up the plate for later use.

I mix resins to try to get the properties I most need for a part. Typically, I mix standard resin with ABS-like to get more rigidity but still with enough flex. I find standard resin is usually too brittle and elegoo ABS is too bendy, but a blend gives a nice result. Ultra-fine parts are always going to be very fragile though. For window bars or lattices, adding 'glass' can help.

I find that calibration for each resin helps. These boxes were printed at 2X and as you can see, they're dimensionally stable. They have been washed and cured.

So I redrew a pin then printed a few. I took a few pictures with my SLR camera and will work on those tomorrow. But I grabber a couple of pics with this Galaxy tablet. Show here. I started with 25mm, then down to 20, 15, 10 5 and even 4mm. In keeping with scale tge 4 and 5mm pins are very small and the pins themselves, to scale are about as thick as a human hair. I do't know how you would ever wrap rigging around such a tiny pin. These pics do not show the smallest

So I redrew a pin then printed a few. I took a few pictures with my SLR camera and will work on those tomorrow. But I grabber a couple of pics with this Galaxy tablet. Show here. I started with 25mm, then down to 20, 15, 10 5 and even 4mm. In keeping with scale tge 4 and 5mm pins are very small and the pins themselves, to scale are about as thick as a human hair. I do't know how you would ever wrap rigging around such a tiny pin. These pics do not show the smallest pins - I'll show them here tomorrow.View attachment 501155View attachment 501156

Printed a few in different sizes. size was adjusted in my slicer by changing the scale. The slicer allows me to change scale while maintaining proportionality in all 3 axis if I so choose. I printed 25, 20, 15, 10 5, and 4mm's. One picture shows the belaying pins as printed on the build plate, the other pictures removed from the plate and photographed. Note: while I did print at least 10 each, not many of the 4mm and 5mm pins survived the scraping off the build plate. I can change the exposure times to make them more robust (rigid) but this run is only a test to see what happens. I think that when needed to print the very small sizes (5mm or less) it might be better to print the entire pin rail with pins installed as one piece. And I cannot imagine needed to actually rig to the smaller pins on a model while using the smallest pins to actually secure the ropes. Let me know what you think.

 

[serikoff]

I wanted to come back to this. Parts can shrink and deform both during printing and post-processing. In my experience, most of the shrinkage occurs during printing and, if dimensional accuracy is critical, you need to play with the xyz scale settings in your slicer once you know, from a test print, what's happening. Be aware that shrinkage is not necessarily uniform, it depends on factors such as the object shape and design, orientation on the print plate, nature and extent of supports, even resin temperature, so you may need to make different adjustments for each axis. And of course this can have you chasing your tail.

I have found that it is best to process thin section prints immediately after the print sequence has completed. Leaving ultra-thin things to sit on the plate for a couple of hours, perhaps as a way of letting the wet resin drain off, can lead to distortion. Even the breeze from the printer fan can cause thin sections of wet resin to deform.

Parts can also deform during cleanup. I do my IPA wash sequence while the parts are still attached to the plate. Small parts are bound to get damaged if they are rattling around in the cage. It also cleans up the plate for later use.

I mix resins to try to get the properties I most need for a part. Typically, I mix standard resin with ABS-like to get more rigidity but still with enough flex. I find standard resin is usually too brittle and elegoo ABS is too bendy, but a blend gives a nice result. Ultra-fine parts are always going to be very fragile though. For window bars or lattices, adding 'glass' can help.

Thanks for the advice. I already figured it all out through trial and error, but thanks anyway.

 

[serikoff]

In this post, I'd like to share the results of 3D modeling metal parts for the Alert 1777 cutter model.

All these parts will be 3D printed and copper-plated, followed by a blackening.

I discuss galvanization (copper coating of plastic) in more detail here >>>.

I'll cover the modeling, printing, and preparation in more detail in the next post.

The modeling results, in three parts, are available at the links below: Part 1/3

HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)

Thank you, friends, for your activity. Thank you, @Charlie1805 Thank you for your kind words and wishes. The same to you, friend! Today is a day of disappointment for me... after four and a half months, my order from the carpenter arrived. As you may remember, I was modeling stands for models...

shipsofscale.com

Part 2/3

HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)

Thank you, friends, for your activity. Thank you, @Charlie1805 Thank you for your kind words and wishes. The same to you, friend! Today is a day of disappointment for me... after four and a half months, my order from the carpenter arrived. As you may remember, I was modeling stands for models...

shipsofscale.com

Part 3/3

HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)

Beautiful modelling, Sergey! Question - isn't the eyebolt off by 90 degrees on this part?

shipsofscale.com

 

[serikoff]

Now a few words about 3D printing.

After modeling, we have STL files that need to be prepared in the Anycubic printing slicer.

The slicer parameters (Anycubic Photon Workshop) are as follows:



I print on an Anycubic Photon M3 Plus 3D printer with a 20-micron layer thickness. I initially used Anycubic Water-Wash Resin, but I switched to the new Anycubic Water-Wash Resin 2.0 HD gray. It's convenient because it doesn't require alcohol removal; regular water is fine.

However, curing with UV light is essential, and a regular manicure lamp will do the trick.



I use a mirror for even illumination.

Remember, printing time directly depends on the height of the item you're printing...





...so it doesn't matter how much space is filled on the table—the key is the height! So, if you need a lot of copies, print them all at once—it'll be faster.



As you can see, there are almost five copies of almost every part on the table, except for the cannons and anchors. These are for my two models and one other, plus spares for possible defects during printing or post-processing. (By the way, not a single part was defective during printing.)

An important point is to install the supports correctly. There are some basic rules, but you can find them online, and you'll only understand the nuances with practice.

The huge advantage is that, firstly, you can print an infinite number of the required parts, which is very difficult to do individually by hand. The parts will be absolutely identical. More importantly, the thickness of the parts can be as small as 0.2-0.3 mm. The important thing is that such parts must first be separated from their holders while still wet and exposed between two pieces of glass (or by other means) to fix their shape so that they don't deform during exposure. By the way, it is better to remove the supports (holders) before curing and when they are wet - this reduces the risk of plastic tearing off the part.









Now all these parts are waiting to be copper plated and blackened...

My tests with copper coating of plastic and subsequent blackening are here >>>.