I’ve seen that tool in European web stores. I think it’s 220-240 volts??? Model Expo used to have a similar one but doesn’t seem to available anymore.
Jan
Krick “Alert” U.S. Cutter, 1/25 scale
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Jan
Just following your conversations and mention of eye problems brought me up to recommending from my own prior cataracts and corrective surgeries then followed a few years later with macular degeneration which has taken out useful vision in my right dominant eye and repeating translucent floaters in my other eye makes me aware that all of what we are doing is vision dependent. Please do regular vision checks looking at small cross-hatched squares to see if any of them are becoming distorted. If so, call you eye doc immediately to diagnose and have this taken care of ASAP. They can only do so much and the rest is in how own physiology responds. I am working with the odds now with my left eye which could go bad also as I am past the probability point of that happening. I hope that your problem is resolved and follow the docs directions. Your long term vision will depend upon that. . . maybe years from now. PT-2
I was referred over to a retinaologist specializing in that part of the eyeball and optic nerves. Yes, keep your regular checks and appointments as loss of sight at any level is irrecoverable and has a large spectrum of impacts. PT-2
Question on deck planking:
I'm in a temporary holding pattern planking the bulkheads. I had to order some more 1.5 X 5mm planks to complete the first planking.
Today I looked at the pattern for the deck planking.
I made a quick pattern to see how the planks would pan out. The start of the planking from the stern is an alternating pattern of 40mm and 100mm pieces. Once the pattern is started then 100mm planks are alternated toward the stem. That got me to a question. Looking in "Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders by Donald Dresser" he shows several patterns for tree nails. I've seen many examples on the forum but wonder if the "drill a hole and toothpick" method is the practice to follow. In the above I used a No.1 pencil lead to simulate caulking and a 0.5 2H drawing pencil to sort of mark the "nails" in the planks. The kit is 1/25 scale and I think tree nails would be an excellent addition.
Jan
I'm in a temporary holding pattern planking the bulkheads. I had to order some more 1.5 X 5mm planks to complete the first planking.
Today I looked at the pattern for the deck planking.
I made a quick pattern to see how the planks would pan out. The start of the planking from the stern is an alternating pattern of 40mm and 100mm pieces. Once the pattern is started then 100mm planks are alternated toward the stem. That got me to a question. Looking in "Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders by Donald Dresser" he shows several patterns for tree nails. I've seen many examples on the forum but wonder if the "drill a hole and toothpick" method is the practice to follow. In the above I used a No.1 pencil lead to simulate caulking and a 0.5 2H drawing pencil to sort of mark the "nails" in the planks. The kit is 1/25 scale and I think tree nails would be an excellent addition.
Jan
Looking back to a documentation on a lumber schooner before it collapsed and records on the treenails for Bluenose the diameters were so small that in scale they would need to be seen from a microscope so it becomes a question of accurate scale opposed to visual appearance. Your build and your choice that none of us should question. Build well shipmate. PT-2
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Hi Jan. This is a personal choice and is best left to the captain of the ship! 
But PT-2 is right - many builds are way out of line with decks, nails and gratings - simply because they are far too big. Personally. Have a look at Olya's build of the Glad Tidings schooner and use at her decknails as a guide if you go that route.
But PT-2 is right - many builds are way out of line with decks, nails and gratings - simply because they are far too big. Personally. Have a look at Olya's build of the Glad Tidings schooner and use at her decknails as a guide if you go that route.
Heinrich,
Just browsed through that log, that’s a very neat method of simulating the deck nailing. I’m sort of fiddling around trying methods I’ve read about or seen used here on the forum. All part of the learning curve and additions to the skill set. I‘m looking forward to the planking of this deck, since I’ve not done a deck pattern as shown on the plans.
Jan
Just browsed through that log, that’s a very neat method of simulating the deck nailing. I’m sort of fiddling around trying methods I’ve read about or seen used here on the forum. All part of the learning curve and additions to the skill set. I‘m looking forward to the planking of this deck, since I’ve not done a deck pattern as shown on the plans.
Jan
I like the look of treenails as long as there are not to many.
I used a pin drill to make little nail holes, then used a stain to highlight the holes.
Most of the holes were tiny enough that sanding the deck filled the holes but a few needed to be back filled.
I agree that they are not to scale.
Ask the owner if they want treenails or not,
I used a pin drill to make little nail holes, then used a stain to highlight the holes.
Most of the holes were tiny enough that sanding the deck filled the holes but a few needed to be back filled.
I agree that they are not to scale.
Ask the owner if they want treenails or not,
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Great Jan! Keep us posted how it works for you. Play around a little until you are confident with it. I found that wetting the planks with cold water works better but that may be just the type of planks I was bending.
Heinrich,
I just fiddled around with the bender. I tried a plank that had soaked overnight and also one that I held under cold water for 5 to 10 seconds.
The top one is basswood and the bottom one is linden. I'm going to try the unit on mahogany and walnut.
Looks like Hans's suggestion is going to work great.
Jan
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I am very happy for you (that plank bender just makes things so much easier). Remember, all my planking was done doing walnut and that is perfect. Forget about soaking planks overnight - it is not necessary. You run the risk of mildew later in the model.
Interesting, eagerly waiting to see how this works for you.
A pros vs cons list maybe?
A pros vs cons list maybe?
Hi Jan!
From now on you can easily bend all planks. With the big part you bend curves. With the small part you can bend tight curves and twist the planks. Simply place them diagonally on an old board and drive over the plank several times until it bends. In between moisten again and again until you notice that the plank now fits. I cut the first centimeter of the plank because there are usually pressure marks from the holder or form standing on the board. Be careful, the water on the planks starts to boil.
With best regards
Thomas
From now on you can easily bend all planks. With the big part you bend curves. With the small part you can bend tight curves and twist the planks. Simply place them diagonally on an old board and drive over the plank several times until it bends. In between moisten again and again until you notice that the plank now fits. I cut the first centimeter of the plank because there are usually pressure marks from the holder or form standing on the board. Be careful, the water on the planks starts to boil.
With best regards
Thomas
Hi Thomas,
Thank you for the advice. I’ll be experimenting for a bit trying to learn this skill.
Jan
Thank you for the advice. I’ll be experimenting for a bit trying to learn this skill.
Jan
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G
Good information all around in this exchange of new tools and how bending works best. I learn or confirm something every day and every postings scan. Very supportive crew in SoS. PT-2
Planking the Hull:
We're back to the task at hand, the first planking of the hull. It's taken a couple of weeks, but I've completed the 1st planking, build up the bulwarks and am now at the ugly stage -sand, fill and snd some more - then repeat -.
I noticed that I made a novice mistake on the Bulwarks. My interpretation of the starting plank versus it's location on the false deck was in error. I interpreted the instruction "Start planking just below the deck line" as that the first plank should align with the bottom of the false deck. Not so, I. should have aligned the plank with the top edge of the false deck. The difference was not much about 1.3mm, but it required a fix. You can see the piece of the mahogany plank (the darker wood on the Bulwark) that I added to both sides to get the right height.
Jan
We're back to the task at hand, the first planking of the hull. It's taken a couple of weeks, but I've completed the 1st planking, build up the bulwarks and am now at the ugly stage -sand, fill and snd some more - then repeat -.
I noticed that I made a novice mistake on the Bulwarks. My interpretation of the starting plank versus it's location on the false deck was in error. I interpreted the instruction "Start planking just below the deck line" as that the first plank should align with the bottom of the false deck. Not so, I. should have aligned the plank with the top edge of the false deck. The difference was not much about 1.3mm, but it required a fix. You can see the piece of the mahogany plank (the darker wood on the Bulwark) that I added to both sides to get the right height.
Jan
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