La Salamandre 1/96 by Miniature Arts [COMPLETED BUILD]

[muchi]

Hello all
A very attractive model, but a rather difficult kit.



First of all, I assembled the jig, but the board was bent.



I was able to fix it without any problems by pasting it on a 1cm thick plate.


The frame is as easy as sticking two pieces together.


There are a few parts that are not laser cut perfectly.
It is necessary to cut so that the frame is thin and does not break.


Frames 1-22 are No 1 in the front and No 2 in the back due to the bevel cut. Frames 23-44 are number 2 in the front and number 1 in the rear.


I use this router all the time to remove laser cut soot and bevels.


The frame does not fit in the jig and keel, and it is difficult to adjust the meshing with a file.

 

[Jimsky]

I will watch your build as you advance to various stages.

If anyone is interested, a while back I made a review of this kit

Kit review - French bomb vessel 'La Salamandre' (1758), Scale 1:96 by Miniature Arts

Kit in review: La Salamandre (1758) Plank On Frame model, full hull kit by Miniature Arts Here I am again...and happy to present another Plank On Frame model kit of French bomb ketch (galiote à bombes) La Salamandre by the company Miniature Arts. The French bomb ketch Salamandre, 1752, by...

shipsofscale.com

 

[Y.T.]

Hi. Where is this kit sold?

 

[Jimsky]

Hi. Where is this kit sold?

right here, Yuri

La Salamandre Bomb Ketch 1:96 - POF Kit

Shipping is included in the total price, please allow 7 days to fulfill the order!! The product is shipped from China!! Bomb ketches were difficult to sail. They had two large mortars on the foredeck in place of the foremast. The bomb ketches had to have a massive and firm hull, in order to...

drydockmodelsandparts.com

 

[muchi]

Thank you. Jimsky
I also saw Jim's review and bought it at that store.
It looks like I'm going to take a vacation this month for a family service trip.

I broke one bone, but the soot removal and beveling of the frame were completed.

It went smoothly except that the thickness of the frame did not match the jig and keel and had to be cut.


I glued the frame to the keel while pulling it from side to side with a rubber band.
I glued it to the keel while checking each piece to see if the keelson to be attached on top would fit.

 

[Uwek]

an interesting nice little POF - I will follow your log with big interest, especially because I made once the 1:48 version.......

 

[muchi]

Thank you Uwe.
I will refer to everyone's past logs.

I glued from the shiphead to the keel up to the 41nd frame.


I attached the Transom beam to the keel.
The beam in the middle seems to be the wrong bevel.
View attachment 370043

I glued the rest of the frames from the stern from the 45th frame to the 42nd frame.


Glue the keelson.
Keelson will never fit unless you dry fit each time you glue one frame.

 

[xander898]

Very nice work , I will follow the assembly with the greatest interest, especially since I am also building it , but I stopped a bit to continue other models

 

[shota70]

I will follow your log with big interest, you are doing wonderful work

 

[Luiz B. F. Grassi]

Thank you Uwe.
I will refer to everyone's past logs.

I glued from the shiphead to the keel up to the 41nd frame.
View attachment 370041

I attached the Transom beam to the keel.
The beam in the middle seems to be the wrong bevel.
View attachment 370042View attachment 370043

I glued the rest of the frames from the stern from the 45th frame to the 42nd frame.
View attachment 370044

Glue the keelson.
Keelson will never fit unless you dry fit each time you glue one frame.
View attachment 370045

Muchi, very good work, congratulations !

 

[muchi]

Hello
Thanks all.
I have an exhibition in July, so I'm making it in a hurry.

As for the assembly of the stem, cut the part through which the rudder passes.


The jig for the stern part was difficult for me to use, so I glued it according to the drawing.



The keel and the frame are only glued at one point, and the hull is not strong enough, so I cut the outer plate and glued it between the frames.



The optimum thickness between frames is 0.7 to 0.75 mm.
The thickness of the outer panel is 0.85mm, which is a little too thick, so I attached it to the base with double-sided tape and shaved it to 0.7-0.75mm to make it fit.

 

[danielsje]

I can understand why the kit is difficult…when parts fitment is off it makes jigging each part tedious. You are doing fine with the challenge. Thanks for posting!

 

[muchi]

Hello.
Thanks all.

This French ship doesn't seem to have any obvious deck clamps, but I'm going to stick the hull plates as inner hull plates so that the beams can be easily fixed.


I added 2.5x0.8 pear wood deck clamps from the stern to frame 9.
This kit has the beam position marked on the frame. Moreover, it was accurate and I pasted the clamp so that the beam would rest on the mark.
This kit, which is marked on the frame, is less error-prone than a jig-based alignment system.


The yellow arrow marks the alignment.
While fitting, the floor rider is also glued.

I applied low temperature wax paraffin and melted it with a hair dryer to coat it.
Dust doesn't easily stick to structural models, so it seems to be recommended over linseed oil, but it takes a little more time.


When I sanded the inside of the hull, the hull was a little weak in the lateral direction, so I glued a plate to the top of the hull with Araldite.
Araldite does not soak into the board, so it is ideal for temporary fixation.
However, if you apply it all over the board, it may become impossible to remove it, so I painted it on the top surface of the board.

 

[NOVICHOK]

Hi.the contours of the boat are very seductive.maybe I should buy it, it just beckons me.

 

[muchi]

The hawse pieces in this kit are difficult and come with 5 sets in anticipation of failure.
I managed to fit it in the cradle before I used it up.


There are 6 hawse pieces from 1 to 6, and if there is a gap, I will use the 7th piece, but I was able to go with 6 pieces.


I took it out of the cradle.


The kit comes with seals for bevel positioning of the hawse pieces.

It may not be helpful, but it is how I made hawse pieces.
First, I marked the bevel on the side without the bevel mark with a seal, and then sanded the bevel on both sides. (Scrape the surface with soot)


After sharpening the chamfer, further sharpen the front diagonally.
As shown in the image, I attached it to the jig attached to the kit with double-sided tape and sanded it.


I glued hose pieces 4 to 6.
Hose piece 1 was double-sided taped to the keel of the Cradle hull, and hose pieces 4-6 were double-sided taped to rib #1.
I made hawse pieces 2 and 3 a little wider and cut them to fit bit by bit.

 

[Uwek]

Very good work and progress

 

[Tobias]

WOW sooo small, great work.

 

[shota70]

I support the compliments of the two previous friends, simply great

 

[donfarr]

HI MUCHI GREAT JOB OF THIS MODEL VERY GOOD CRAFTMANSHIP QUESTION THE MACHINE THAT YOU SHOW IN THE TOP PICTURES I AM TRYING TO FIND THIS ON AMAZON CAN NOT FIND IT WHERE DID YOU GET IT AND WHAT IS IT CALLED. THANK YOU. GOD BLESS YOU AND YOURS STAY SAFE DON

 

[muchi]

Hello
I bought from Dry-Dock Models that Jimsky mentioned in this la salamandre kit review.
It seems that you can also buy it at ZHL and ZJ CN Model co., LTD.
I'm not used to putting links or quoting sentences, so I can't introduce well.