Lady Nelson - Amati 1:64

[Johnnyoldboy]

Thanks for all the birthday wishes, really appreciated.
Well the rush is on now to finish this girl so here is an update:

View attachment 192130
I took some time off the build to make some rigging thread, I use Gutermann thread along with the Domanoff ropewalk to make this.

View attachment 192131
I installed the rigging to the tiller, the plans did not show this but in some of the pictures this can be seen. A note to this is that doing this and some other things ran me short of blocks later on

View attachment 192132
Mast is permanently installed complete with shrouds, backstays, and braces

View attachment 192133
Ratlines being tied

View attachment 192134
Standing rigging completed

View attachment 192135

View attachment 192136

View attachment 192137
And this is how she looks this morning. First yard is attached complete with braces and lifts, second one is in the process and should be completed this morning.
You can notice on the top mast two blocks, these are for the lifts which are not included in the plans but an addition on my part as are the two braces on the bowsprit.

Thanks for checking this out and I hope to report more in a very short time.

Don did you make up the shrouds with r

Thanks for all the birthday wishes, really appreciated.
Well the rush is on now to finish this girl so here is an update:

View attachment 192130
I took some time off the build to make some rigging thread, I use Gutermann thread along with the Domanoff ropewalk to make this.

View attachment 192131
I installed the rigging to the tiller, the plans did not show this but in some of the pictures this can be seen. A note to this is that doing this and some other things ran me short of blocks later on

View attachment 192132
Mast is permanently installed complete with shrouds, backstays, and braces

View attachment 192133
Ratlines being tied

View attachment 192134
Standing rigging completed

View attachment 192135

View attachment 192136

View attachment 192137
And this is how she looks this morning. First yard is attached complete with braces and lifts, second one is in the process and should be completed this morning.
You can notice on the top mast two blocks, these are for the lifts which are not included in the plans but an addition on my part as are the two braces on the bowsprit.

Thanks for checking this out and I hope to report more in a very short time

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

Don the plans call for rigging with some .5 mm thread. Kit came with .37 mm instead of the .5. Where do you suggest I can possibly get some .5 mm natural thread

 

[TechTrek]

Don the plans call for rigging with some .5 mm thread. Kit came with .37 mm instead of the .5. Where do you suggest I can possibly get some .5 mm natural thread

I use this thread for that purpose, available on Amazon.

 

[DonRobinson]

Don the plans call for rigging with some .5 mm thread. Kit came with .37 mm instead of the .5. Where do you suggest I can possibly get some .5 mm natural thread

I am not sure how you are measuring your thread but the proper way is to wrap some around something round and divide the measurement by the number of wraps;


Here I have used a exacto handle and made ten wraps, using the Amati .5 mm rope. As you can see the wraps measure 4.59 mm wide, divide this by the number of wraps, which is ten, and you come out with .459 mm which is pretty close to .5mm!
Measuring just a single thread is very inaccurate due to stretching of the thread, pressure of your calipers etc.
I used the Amati .5 mm rope throughout my build and it looked good to me.

 

[DonRobinson]

Don did you make up the shrouds with r

Not sure what were you trying to ask Johnny(is this your name?)

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

I am not sure how you are measuring your thread but the proper way is to wrap some around something round and divide the measurement by the number of wraps;

View attachment 211046
Here I have used a exacto handle and made ten wraps, using the Amati .5 mm rope. As you can see the wraps measure 4.59 mm wide, divide this by the number of wraps, which is ten, and you come out with .459 mm which is pretty close to .5mm!
Measuring just a single thread is very inaccurate due to stretching of the thread, pressure of your calipers etc.
I used the Amati .5 mm rope throughout my build and it looked good to me.

Thanks for that tip

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

I use this thread for that purpose, available on Amazon.
View attachment 210999View attachment 211000

What thickness is this

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

I am not sure how you are measuring your thread but the proper way is to wrap some around something round and divide the measurement by the number of wraps;

View attachment 211046
Here I have used a exacto handle and made ten wraps, using the Amati .5 mm rope. As you can see the wraps measure 4.59 mm wide, divide this by the number of wraps, which is ten, and you come out with .459 mm which is pretty close to .5mm!
Measuring just a single thread is very inaccurate due to stretching of the thread, pressure of your calipers etc.
I used the Amati .5 mm rope throughout my build and it looked good to me.

I am not sure how you are measuring your thread but the proper way is to wrap some around something round and divide the measurement by the number of wraps;

View attachment 211046
Here I have used a exacto handle and made ten wraps, using the Amati .5 mm rope. As you can see the wraps measure 4.59 mm wide, divide this by the number of wraps, which is ten, and you come out with .459 mm which is pretty close to .5mm!
Measuring just a single thread is very inaccurate due to stretching of the thread, pressure of your calipers etc.
I used the Amati .5 mm rope throughout my build and it looked good to me.

Don I measured this way and got .45 as well so I can assume that the thread provided in the kit was correct even though it was suppose to be .5. Thanks

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

Hey all, hope your Sunday is gong fine. I have a few pictures to show:

View attachment 192955View attachment 192956View attachment 192948View attachment 192949View attachment 192950View attachment 192951View attachment 192952View attachment 192954View attachment 192953
There you are. Now just the lower boom to attach and the main rigging is complete. After that is cleaning up the excess lines, rope coils and make a base.
Another step closer.
Thanks again for stopping in, your likes and comments
Have A Good One

Hey all, hope your Sunday is gong fine. I have a few pictures to show:

View attachment 192955View attachment 192956View attachment 192948View attachment 192949View attachment 192950View attachment 192951View attachment 192952View attachment 192954View attachment 192953
There you are. Now just the lower boom to attach and the main rigging is complete. After that is cleaning up the excess lines, rope coils and make a base.
Another step closer.
Thanks again for stopping in, your likes and comments
Have A Good One

Hey all, hope your Sunday is gong fine. I have a few pictures to show:

View attachment 192955View attachment 192956View attachment 192948View attachment 192949View attachment 192950View attachment 192951View attachment 192952View attachment 192954View attachment 192953
There you are. Now just the lower boom to attach and the main rigging is complete. After that is cleaning up the excess lines, rope coils and make a base.
Another step closer.
Thanks again for stopping in, your likes and comments
Have A Good One

Hey All, here is the final instalment of the Lady Nelson. She is complete!

View attachment 194969View attachment 194970View attachment 194971View attachment 194972View attachment 194973View attachment 194974View attachment 194975

There she is, I will keep her around for a few days before I take her to her final resting place. She is going to be a gift to Dr. Pillay here in Prince Albert.
Thanks so much for hanging around and for all the great comments and the likes.
I'll be starting another log possibly today or tomorrow
View attachment 194976View attachment 194977View attachment 194978View attachment 194979View attachment 194980View attachment 194981

That is her.
Thanks for hanging around to watch. Also Thanks for all the great comments and likes.
I'll be keeping the Lady around before I take her to her new owner. I am gifting her to a Doctor Pillay in town. Without going into a long story Doctor Pillay reached out and gave me some tremendous help early this past summer, so this is my way of thanking him. Hope he enjoys!!
You are all welcome to join me in my next build will be the HMS Ontario from MarisStella
Have A Good One

Hello Don, I do congratulate you on complication of such a great little ship, WELL DONE. Where on Amazon did you find that goose neck third hand, it sure dose look very handy.
Regards Lawrence

Don I need help. The plans are very confusing. In the one photo it shows 4 blocks blocks K,J and 2 Is. J is a single block. In the second photo block K is shown with a eyelet at the bottom where as in the,first photo it does not. Not sure what is correct. Also, in the second photo it shows a double block L and not the J as is shown in the first photo. Again which is correct.

 

[DonRobinson]

@Johnnyoldboy , Alright, so with block K having a eye or not, it is really up to you if you wish to seize an eye or not the big thing is that there is a line attached to this block that goes to the double block below this one. I do believe I made a eyelet on mine, it is an extra step that really is not that hard to do but not really required if you don't wish to.
Both L's in the second picture should be single blocks, if you follow the rope going through the blocks you will see only single blocks are required. Another thing to note is there is a line starting from the bottom of the upper single block and the bottom single block has a hook attached to it, these hooks are photo etched.
So in saying this you can see that the double block may show a eyelet as it has a line coming from it but the single block which also has a line coming from it does not have a eyelet, this is why I say it is really up to you as to which way is correct

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

@Johnnyoldboy , Alright, so with block K having a eye or not, it is really up to you if you wish to seize an eye or not the big thing is that there is a line attached to this block that goes to the double block below this one. I do believe I made a eyelet on mine, it is an extra step that really is not that hard to do but not really required if you don't wish to.
Both L's in the second picture should be single blocks, if you follow the rope going through the blocks you will see only single blocks are required. Another thing to note is there is a line starting from the bottom of the upper single block and the bottom single block has a hook attached to it, these hooks are photo etched.
So in saying this you can see that the double block may show a eyelet as it has a line coming from it but the single block which also has a line coming from it does not have a eyelet, this is why I say it is really up to you as to which way is correct

Thanks Don for your help I really appreciate it since this is by first build

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

Beautiful model! What kind of wood did you use for planking under wales (whitish one).

Don does it matter whether the shroud,main and back stay ropes are above or below the 4 block pendants

Hey All, here is the final instalment of the Lady Nelson. She is complete!

View attachment 194969View attachment 194970View attachment 194971View attachment 194972View attachment 194973View attachment 194974View attachment 194975

There she is, I will keep her around for a few days before I take her to her final resting place. She is going to be a gift to Dr. Pillay here in Prince Albert.
Thanks so much for hanging around and for all the great comments and the likes.
I'll be starting another log possibly today or tomorrow
View attachment 194976View attachment 194977View attachment 194978View attachment 194979View attachment 194980View attachment 194981

That is her.
Thanks for hanging around to watch. Also Thanks for all the great comments and likes.
I'll be keeping the Lady around before I take her to her new owner. I am gifting her to a Doctor Pillay in town. Without going into a long story Doctor Pillay reached out and gave me some tremendous help early this past summer, so this is my way of thanking him. Hope he enjoys!!
You are all welcome to join me in my next build will be the HMS Ontario from MarisStella
Have A Good One

don does it matter if the shrouds are mounted above or below the block pendants on the top of the mast

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

Don does it matter whether the shrouds are mounted above or below the block pendants at the top of the mast

 

[DonRobinson]

Don does it matter whether the shrouds are mounted above or below the block pendants at the top of the mast

Hey Johnny. Typically the shrouds would be the first on the mast then followed with any remaining rigging required. If you have inadvertently done otherwise and don't wish to change things it would not pose too much of a problem with the Lady Nelson as it only has the bare minimum of rigging. If it was a more complex rigged ship you may then want to change things as improper placement could interfere with other aspects of the rigging

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

Hey Johnny. Typically the shrouds would be the first on the mast then followed with any remaining rigging required. If you have inadvertently done otherwise and don't wish to change things it would not pose too much of a problem with the Lady Nelson as it only has the bare minimum of rigging. If it was a more complex rigged ship you may then want to change things as improper placement could interfere with other aspects of the rigging

Don thanks so much for your help

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

Hello all, thanks for dropping in, also thanks for the likes and comments. Much appreciated
Today's update is not much especially when compared to @shelk Santisma Trinidad latest update. If you haven't already you really should check it out it is truly amazing what he is doing with that kit.
Anyways here is my meagre update:

View attachment 185370
First up is the chainplates.. These photo etched parts may look nice but they are a real bugger to assemble. Getting the one part around the deadeye is a challenge, you need to really stretch and deform them in order to fit. Once you do get them around and squeezed together the narrow end of the second piece then slips through the bottom part of the first piece then bent over to hold it in place. Soldering or gluing is then needed to hold it together, I used ca glue as I pre-painted all the parts. So with all this bending and deforming weak spots are created, I have had one fall off. To repair I re-attached using epoxy, this might be something to consider for those building this kit(install using epoxy).

View attachment 185371
The one thing that bothers me with many kits is the length of the belaying pins, they are always too short making rigging even more difficult. So I decided to replace the kit ones with some homemade pins. Using my rotary tool, some 2 mm dowel(toothpicks would work fine too) and a couple of files I made some new ones. I preset my calipers one for the length of the handle(4 mm) and the other for the length of the pin plus extra to allow for what is inserted in the rotary tool. The files I used are a cheap diamond file and for the shaft I used the flat perma-grit file.

View attachment 185372

Just giving you a better look at my measuring system. This was just to speed things up a little

View attachment 185375

WOW! A real close up So the handle is formed first using the diamond file

View attachment 185376

Then the shaft is formed using the flat perma-grit

View attachment 185373

And this how it looks after coming out of the rotary tool

View attachment 185374

Aren't these macro shots useless? This compares the homemade one to the kit supplied one

View attachment 185377

I know, they are hard to see. I gave them a quick bath in India ink and some wipe on poly. I'm happy with how they turned out and I'm sure they will help with the rigging process.
If you look at the deadeye on the right you see a small speck, that is not dust that is the light shining off the epoxy I used to re-attach the deadeye.
Next up is the rigging, which I have already started doing some of the prep work. More to come soon

Thanks again for stopping in and hopefully I did not put you all to sleep!!

Hello all, thanks for dropping in, also thanks for the likes and comments. Much appreciated
Today's update is not much especially when compared to @shelk Santisma Trinidad latest update. If you haven't already you really should check it out it is truly amazing what he is doing with that kit.
Anyways here is my meagre update:

View attachment 185370
First up is the chainplates.. These photo etched parts may look nice but they are a real bugger to assemble. Getting the one part around the deadeye is a challenge, you need to really stretch and deform them in order to fit. Once you do get them around and squeezed together the narrow end of the second piece then slips through the bottom part of the first piece then bent over to hold it in place. Soldering or gluing is then needed to hold it together, I used ca glue as I pre-painted all the parts. So with all this bending and deforming weak spots are created, I have had one fall off. To repair I re-attached using epoxy, this might be something to consider for those building this kit(install using epoxy).

View attachment 185371
The one thing that bothers me with many kits is the length of the belaying pins, they are always too short making rigging even more difficult. So I decided to replace the kit ones with some homemade pins. Using my rotary tool, some 2 mm dowel(toothpicks would work fine too) and a couple of files I made some new ones. I preset my calipers one for the length of the handle(4 mm) and the other for the length of the pin plus extra to allow for what is inserted in the rotary tool. The files I used are a cheap diamond file and for the shaft I used the flat perma-grit file.

View attachment 185372

Just giving you a better look at my measuring system. This was just to speed things up a little

View attachment 185375

WOW! A real close up So the handle is formed first using the diamond file

View attachment 185376

Then the shaft is formed using the flat perma-grit

View attachment 185373

And this how it looks after coming out of the rotary tool

View attachment 185374

Aren't these macro shots useless? This compares the homemade one to the kit supplied one

View attachment 185377

I know, they are hard to see. I gave them a quick bath in India ink and some wipe on poly. I'm happy with how they turned out and I'm sure they will help with the rigging process.
If you look at the deadeye on the right you see a small speck, that is not dust that is the light shining off the epoxy I used to re-attach the deadeye.
Next up is the rigging, which I have already started doing some of the prep work. More to come soon

Thanks again for stopping in and hopefully I did not put you all to sleep!!

Don I agree totally. The belaying pins are way too short and making rigging nearly impossible

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

Don I agree totally. The belaying pins are way too short and make rigging nearly impossible

 

[DonRobinson]

Don I agree totally. The belaying pins are way too short and make rigging nearly impossible

Rigging is tough enough without having to deal with those short belaying pins, well worth trying to make your own.

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

Don I’m in the final rigging and I can’t get the lower gaff boom to hold position. The parrel beads don’t hold it tight enough. There is no forward support. Did you have the same problem

 

[Tangopapa]

Don I’m in the final rigging and I can’t get the lower gaff boom to hold position. The parrel beads don’t hold it tight enough. There is no forward support. Did you have the same problem

The end of the boom next to the mast would have been held up by the sail I guess. Anyway, what I always do is put a little brass wire in the base of a gaff or boom and then glue it into a corresponding hole in the mast. It keeps it at just the right height and if you only get glue on the wire, in other words, don't glue the jaws to the mast, it acts like a spring and you can use the sheets to pull it down to the right angle / height at the transom.