Lady Nelson - Amati 1:64

Why not CA or epoxy a little wooden block under it on the aft side of the mast then, just to keep it up and the parrels will hold it tightish to the mast? Use wood that closely matches the mast, or paint it black like the boom. Similar to the features on the ends of the yardarms that old braces and so on in place. It doesn't need to be big. I'm a bit surprised that the ship doesn't have that anyway, so that the mast end of the boom doesn't drop to the deck when the mainsail is lowered.
 
DonRobinson said:
Hello all, thanks for dropping in, also thanks for the likes and comments. Much appreciated
Today's update is not much especially when compared to @shelk Santisma Trinidad latest update. If you haven't already you really should check it out it is truly amazing what he is doing with that kit.
Anyways here is my meagre update:

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First up is the chainplates.. These photo etched parts may look nice but they are a real bugger to assemble. Getting the one part around the deadeye is a challenge, you need to really stretch and deform them in order to fit. Once you do get them around and squeezed together the narrow end of the second piece then slips through the bottom part of the first piece then bent over to hold it in place. Soldering or gluing is then needed to hold it together, I used ca glue as I pre-painted all the parts. So with all this bending and deforming weak spots are created, I have had one fall off. To repair I re-attached using epoxy, this might be something to consider for those building this kit(install using epoxy).

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The one thing that bothers me with many kits is the length of the belaying pins, they are always too short making rigging even more difficult. So I decided to replace the kit ones with some homemade pins. Using my rotary tool, some 2 mm dowel(toothpicks would work fine too) and a couple of files I made some new ones. I preset my calipers one for the length of the handle(4 mm) and the other for the length of the pin plus extra to allow for what is inserted in the rotary tool. The files I used are a cheap diamond file and for the shaft I used the flat perma-grit file.

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Just giving you a better look at my measuring system. This was just to speed things up a little

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WOW! A real close up o_O So the handle is formed first using the diamond file

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Then the shaft is formed using the flat perma-grit

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And this how it looks after coming out of the rotary tool

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Aren't these macro shots useless? This compares the homemade one to the kit supplied one

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I know, they are hard to see. I gave them a quick bath in India ink and some wipe on poly. I'm happy with how they turned out and I'm sure they will help with the rigging process.
If you look at the deadeye on the right you see a small speck, that is not dust that is the light shining off the epoxy I used to re-attach the deadeye.
Next up is the rigging, which I have already started doing some of the prep work. More to come soon

Thanks again for stopping in and hopefully I did not put you all to sleep!!
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I also had a chain plate break during rigging the shroud. Hoping the epoxy works. Anyone building this model I would suggest reinforcing the chainplates in advance.
 
DonRobinson said:
Hey all, hope your Sunday is gong fine. I have a few pictures to show:

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There you are. Now just the lower boom to attach and the main rigging is complete. After that is cleaning up the excess lines, rope coils and make a base.
Another step closer.
Thanks again for stopping in, your likes and comments
Have A Good One
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Don I Just finish rigging the shroud and ready to start rattails and noticed that one of the rigging lines going from the mid yard to the belaying pin goes between the shroud lines did you have this problem. Looks like I rigged the line correctly so just curious as to whether this is normal
 
Johnnyoldboy said:
I also had a chain plate break during rigging the shroud. Hoping the epoxy works. Anyone building this model I would suggest reinforcing the chainplates in advance.
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It's tricky because you don't have the deadeyes in just the right angle compared to the chain piece until you have a shroud on it. I had enough break that I ran out of spares and had to glue a new strip to the last one, enough to make a new hook at the end -- but it held on the second try. I made the patch from the left over thin brass from the PE parts, just snipped out a thin strip. Tricky!
 
Johnnyoldboy said:
Did you have one of the rigging lines for mid span yard interfere with the shroud
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I haven't installed yardarms yet, but you have something in the wrong place I think. The lines that go up from the middle yardarm tips to a pair of blocks atop the upper mast cap then go straight down to belaying pin 11 on each side, and should pass behind and inboard of the shrouds. I can see using a spare plank to sight with that this will just miss the after most shroud. Is that the problem? The other one, that ties off at belaying pin 5 should be clear all the way. Interesting, I just noticed that I didn't install the deck rings that are need there. I drilled the holes, luckily, so can insert right away. Anyway, if the lines going to 11 were routed through the shrouds you will have to re do them I think. Maybe I will do those upper yards before I finish the port ratlines! If that doesn't help, you will need to post a photo?
 
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I may have recognized this earlier unknowingly because I had asked in an earlier post if it made a difference whether the blocks were installed above or below the shroud lines at the mast. Answer was didn’t think it would make a difference. I guess it does
 
All of the rigging lines that support the mid yard and upper mast that are above the portion of the mast where the shrouds are attached appear to go thru the shroud. Can’t see any way around that since they go the belaying pins. See photo

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Johnnyoldboy said:
All of the rigging lines that support the mid yard and upper mast that are above the portion of the mast where the shrouds are attached appear to go thru the shroud. Can’t see any way around that since they go the belaying pins. See photo
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I was thinking of a photo of your model, not the drawing. I have the same drawing. You were talking about the mid yard, which the rigging from that go up to the mast cap, not to the two blocks that are right in top of the shrouds, so that is confusing me. In any case, I tried it with a piece of thread and mine will only just clear, but much better if I take them to the after most belaying pin locations, which I will do with the lifts from both upper yardarms. Because of the rake of the mast, I will run the middle,yard to the aftermost and the main yard to the one just in front of that. I am still convinced that the blocks should sit atop the shrouds. I dont think any standing rigging goes around the mast under the shrouds. Take a look at Don's photos in the Completed Build photo gallery. You can see there I think that his lines squeak by just aft of the shrouds. They may actually touch them, which in a real ship may not be ideal. I generally tie off the running rigging at its belaying point but don't put a glue wash on it until I am happy with all the rigging around it, in case I have to move it. Or sometimes, as I am quite clumsy, I may blunder against a piece of rigging and it has to be tightened up a bit again.
 
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Tangopapa said:
I was thinking of a photo of your model, not the drawing. I have the same drawing. You were talking about the mid yard, which the rigging from that go up to the mast cap, not to the two blocks that are right in top of the shrouds, so that is confusing me. In any case, I tried it with a piece of thread and mine will only just clear, but much better if I take them to the after most belaying pin locations, which I will do with the lifts from both upper yardarms. Because of the rake of the mast, I will run the middle,yard to the aftermost and the main yard to the one just in front of that. I am still convinced that the blocks should sit atop the shrouds. I dont think any standing rigging goes around the mast under the shrouds. Take a look at Don's photos in the Completed Build photo gallery. You can see there I think that his lines squeak by just aft of the shrouds. They may actually touch them, which in a fellow ship may not be ideal. I generally tie off the running rigging at its belaying point but don't put a glue wash on it until I am happy with ll the rigging around it, in case I have to move it. Or sometimes, as I am quite clumsy, I may blunder against a piece of rigging and it has to be tightened up a bit again.
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You are absolutely correct. By moving the rigging lines to the extreme belaying pins solves the problem. I was going by the plans which showed the belaying points for the rigging being on the bow side
 
Johnnyoldboy said:
You are absolutely correct. By moving the rigging lines to the extreme belaying pins solves the problem. I was going by the plans which showed the belaying points for the rigging being on the bow side
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Awesome. I'm tweaking the rigging a bit. I have to able to imagine how the crew would get to something,how to belay it, etc. I just have to be cautious of any ripple effect -- that an innocent looking change doesnt cause grief with something else I haven't thought of, or which the drawings don't show. I think from what I see others do, that is normal part of model making. It's your ship and your crew!
 
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