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L'Orenoque Mamoli 1:100 scale

Chuck,

The double catheads look great and your documentation is a great reason to include them.

While operating in high currents, the ability to drop two anchors per side could be invaluable.
Brad! Thank you! At least in part, I'm deciding to build her the way I want. Given the lack of historical documents, I doubt that anyone living could say that L'Orenoque never had double cat heads. :cool:

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck
 
What ho, shipmates!

Here's the thrilling tale of how I invented a method of making chains . . . .

The objects that came in the kit for fastening the lower deadeyes to the hull was never in the race. I gave it some thought and remebered that I had to "invent" the chanins for my Lovely Renee build because the kit for Fair American did not include them at the time I bought her. That took me 6 months to figure outROTFROTFROTF. For that build I used 26 ga annealed steel wire and was able to make a relatively uniform set of chains. I was able to make them in one peice because at 1:48 scale the hole I drilled in the channel could accommodate the loop I made for the nail to pass through and secure the chain to the hull.

This time I used 28 ga and tried the same thing. The bottom loop was still too big and I decided I didn't want bigger holes in the channels on L'Orenoque. What to do - make the chains in two parts!

Here we go -

First pic is the tools and materials. The yellow arrow points out the 3mm ebony deadeye I sourced from DryDock.

LO chain tools.jpg

Step one: Cut two lengths of wire.
Step two: Wrap one length around the deadeye and give it a twist - just enough to snug the wire to the deadeye leaving the deadeye able to move. If you over-snug just untwist a bit.

lo chains 1.jpg

lo chains 3.jpg

Step three: Cut off one of the tails close to the twist.

Step four: use the end of needle nose or round nose pliers to make a loop just big enough to pass a 28 ga wire through.

\lo chains 2.jpg

When you do this make sure to leave the deadeye loop tail long enough to be visible once you put the deadeye into the channel. My channels at 1/32nd thick so, measuring by eye I left enough:p. The loop will be small enough to wiggle through the hole in the channel.

Step five: Put the deadeye in the hole!

Step six: Take the second lenght of wire and make an eye just big enough to accommodate the nail.

lo chains 4.jpg

Then give the eye a slight angle to more or less match the angle of the chains - that way you put less stress on the channel as you attach the chain to the hull and you have nice flat contact hull - chain - nail.

lo chains 5.jpg

Then make a curve in the end without the eye - don't curve the whole thing - this is just to help with threding the 28 ga chain through a 28 ga wide hole. Because the deadeye can move in its hole, you can twist it to help with the threading.

Note - I first tried threading front to back - I couldn't get the chain to close properly once through the loop - looked sloppy and was otherwise hard to see what I was doing. Brainwave!!! Thread from back to front!

Step seven: Place nail through the eye and into a predrilled hole.

lo chains 6.jpg

I cemented the nail and chain with CA and pushed the nail home with my fingernail.

Step eight: Taking needle nose pliers and great care, start pinching the tail end of the chain near the wire eye attached to the deadeye. Once you are satisfied that the chain is tight enough CAREFULLY remove the excess wire from the chain.

lo chains 7.jpglo chains 8.jpglo chains 9.jpg

About 90 minutes later -

Step 9 - apply paint and Ta Da!

lo chains 10.jpg

If my math is correct, I have to do this 32 more times at a rate of 5 every 90 minutes - 9 hours and 36 minutes to get the lower deadeyes in!!!

Wish me joy, shipmates! I wish the same for you!

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck
 
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What ho, shipmates!

I have a couple of choices to make. Spend the time finishing getting the lower deadeyed in place (good start today - completion tomorrow, maybe) OR get to work on the iron work (Grant, pay attention ROTF )

I have been itching to do some experiments now that YouTube has giving me a Ph.D. level educatioin in mico-soldering - so, maybe I do the sponson railings on the starboard side?


Lo sponson railings.jpg

The great thing about this plan is that I can remove thee sponsons and I don't have to worry about injuring the hull.

On the other hand - I can get busy with making eyebolts and locating them on the hull, attaching cleats making and placing pin rails - What's a guy to choose?

Blessings.
Chuck
 
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