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L'Orenoque Mamoli 1:100 scale

The Gavel said:
What ho, shipmates!

Well, I started the iron work last night! I decided to experiment and I am VERY pleased. The joints are very well bonded. I just need to remember to thoroghly clean the brass before assembly.

I watched a couple of YouTubes and "discovered" solder and flux in a syringe. One of the videos showed railings being made on a piece of scrap wood a bit at a time. I decided to copy that method ofr this trial. The syringe solder is no joke - just the smallest dab from the end of a toothpick did the trick. I didn't think to prepare the brass for blackening - I didn't think my first experiment would be so successful - no amount of cleaning after assembly allowed the brass to blacken. So excited:D The last pic shows the experiment aboard - I was surprised by how strong the joints were - I could simply move the two ends in opposite directions with my fingers to achieve the proper slope to follow the curve of the caprail as it lowers going aft. The final version I will set the correct angles and solder the posts and railings so I won't need to bend the finished product.

Pic 1 red arrows show the placement of the posts - 10mm apart based on the railings shown on the poo deck of the original L'Orenoque plans. Blue arrows shou the rails - 5/16ths high. I added a middle rail for safety. I may go without the lower rail. The brass is held down with standard masking tape.

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Solder paste is definitely worth the money. I keep mine in the fridge when not in use. It will last much longer that way.
 
What ho, shipmates!

The railing experiments continue! I decided to reduce the diameter of the posts and rails. So, the rails from the first experiment became posts and the next smallest size wire for the rails. This time I tried to clean the brass with 600 grit paper. Only moderately successful. I also wonder whether the soldering paste will blacken. I have put this experiment in a white vinegar bath (thank you for the advice, Paul!) to see if it helps with additonal cleaning. The next experiment I will sand with 600 grit and put the parts in vinegar first.

lo railings v2 1.jpglo railings v2 2.jpg
 
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If you want to up your cleaning game even further you need to use a pickling solution (stronger acid than vinegar). It works better if it is warmed. This can be used before soldering - but also after soldering in that it removes all the scale. I only mention it because those rails are pretty thin so cleaning up afterward will be a challenge.


You will also need a container for it - I just use a glass jar - and copper tongs (or another jar to decant into).

Always a joy for me to suggest ways to spend your money, Chuck.
 
What ho, shipmates!

Second round with the railing 2.0. The cleaning was good enough to appear "black" at scale. The port forward railing is aboard and the XO is pleased that the hands won't be pitched overboard in a light chopROTF

It looks much better from a normal viewing distance - turns out that too much stress will break a joint. At this point, a little CA on one joint didn't bother me. Still. with the thin rails SUPER easy to distort.:eek:

lo railing forward port.jpg
 
My experience is that brass blackener will never work on solder. An alternate approach would be to tin the entire length of your pieces before assembly, which would allow you to tack solder the joints, then use solder patina to blacken the whole thing. Patina can be found at any stained glass supply outlet. There are several online.

Push comes to shove, automotive primer and black spray paint :eek:
 
Namabiiru said:
My experience is that brass blackener will never work on solder. An alternate approach would be to tin the entire length of your pieces before assembly, which would allow you to tack solder the joints, then use solder patina to blacken the whole thing. Patina can be found at any stained glass supply outlet. There are several online.

Push comes to shove, automotive primer and black spray paint :eek:
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Namabiiru! On Harriet Lane's davits and on L'Orenoque's steam escape tubes (I'm just making up names for stuff ROTF ) that run parallel to the funnel I had no problem with the solder blackening. I realy think it is the particular ingredients in this solder paste. Push will have to shove come with a tire iron before I paint my metal work!!!!ROTFROTFROTF All kidding aside - in person things have blackend enough for my satifaction. Also, I worked hard and purposefully to make the railings as close to scale as possible - any amount of paint would ruin the effect IMHO:p


Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck
 
What ho, shipmates!

The XO lit the smoking lamp and issued the grog ration after a hard day's work! Pictures? You betcha! Shocking how macro photos make my butt look so bigROTF:eek:ROTF:eek:ROTF Really, the railings look very :cool: level and smooth in person.

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck

lo railings 1.jpglo railings 2.jpglo railings 3.jpg
 
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Good morning Chuck. You definitely have a "spring in your model building". Just fabulous work. Awesome soldering and I appreciate the comment from the other members as I am attempting to solder, and things don't seem to be going my way. ROTF . Solder paste will be my next purchase and I will see if I can get some pickling solution here. Thanks Paul.
Cheers Grant
 
GrantTyler said:
Good morning Chuck. You definitely have a "spring in your model building". Just fabulous work. Awesome soldering and I appreciate the comment from the other members as I am attempting to solder, and things don't seem to be going my way. ROTF . Solder paste will be my next purchase and I will see if I can get some pickling solution here. Thanks Paul.
Cheers Grant
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Grant! Good morning to you! Thank you!

I am pleased with the way the micro soldering is turning out. The soldering paste doesn't require a lot of heat and it only takes a tiny amount to get the job done on my tiny wires. I had really turned the whole thing into a mountain in my mind.

The paste I'm using suggests cleaning the joints in warm water to remove any excess flux - I'm wondering whether that's the problem I'm having with a throrough blackening. For the starbord railing I cleaned the wires with 600 grit, cut the parts, gave everything a white vinegar bath for more than an hour, did the soldering, used a toothbrush made for babies to "clean" the joints in a warm water bath, and then blackening solution. I think I just couldn't scrub hard enough or maybe the bath wasn't warm enough - the rails are SUPER thin and I didn't want to ruin my work with elbow grease ROTF . Well, I have miles of railings to make yet we'll see what my learning curve and additional experiments achieve.

In any event, having seen what you can do - Forward intrepid man! I'm positive you'll succeed!

Blessings. Peaec. Gratitude.
Chuck
 
The Gavel said:
I think I just couldn't scrub hard enough or maybe the bath wasn't warm enough - the rails are SUPER thin and I didn't want to ruin my work with elbow grease
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That's where the pickling solution would help. With silver solder paste (I order it from a jeweler's supply shop - it comes in different melting temps - be prepared: $$$) the solder doesn't get as burnished looking as the brass bits do but it darkens enough to get away with it. Not sure about the composition of the 'solder-it' product you're using.

Honestly, what you have is looking fine as is, Chuck. Run with it.
 
dockattner said:
That's where the pickling solution would help. With silver solder paste (I order it from a jeweler's supply shop - it comes in different melting temps - be prepared: $$$) the solder doesn't get as burnished looking as the brass bits do but it darkens enough to get away with it. Not sure about the composition of the 'solder-it' product you're using.

Honestly, what you have is looking fine as is, Chuck. Run with it.
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Paul! Thank you! Running with it!!!! I just hope I don't trip ROTF

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck
 
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