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"Mayflower" Yuanqing models

When I read the comments and the misinformation represented by members about YuanQing I cringe.

@mick : YuanQing is not ZHL. YuanQing is a reputable Chinese Model Manufacturing Company who manufactures kits; ZHL is a retailer who sells models manufactured by Chinese manufacturers like YuanQing, Luhaiqingkong, Unicorn, ShiCheng and CAF to name a few.

@Ted Robinson : Please see my answer above.

See below the group Build of the YuanQing Bluenose which has been built by more than 60 SOS members.

As far as the so-called "piracy" issue is concerned, I will let @Jimsky address that. He has a special and polite way of doing that - I am far too direct!


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Heinrich said:
As far as the so-called "piracy" issue is concerned, I will let @Jimsky address that. He has a special and polite way of doing that - I am far too direct!
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Concerning the “piracy” issue, this isn’t something we have authority over, nor is it our field of expertise. Before "tagging' someone with 'piracy, it’s best left to those who truly know the subject. I’d rather see the discussion return to modeling, where we can all contribute meaningfully.
 
I'm building the upper deck. I'm studying the instructions several steps ahead. They recommend installing gunports on the lower deck. There are no guns included. Question: Was the ship armed? If not, why cut gunports? They are covered with covers. If the ship was armed, I should probably buy 17th-century guns and install them on the lower deck. This needs to be done now. After the hull is planked, this will be impossible. The anatomy of the ship "Susan Constant 1605" lists eight guns. These are similar ships in historical period and design.

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AlexSkripko said:
This is how it turned out. I don't like it. I'll have to redo it.

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This appears quite salvageable. Don't sand in a cross-grain direction. Sanding those cross-scratches out will be some work. I suggest you use a razor scraper to scrape the deck until those scratches are removed. Take your time and scrape in slow, even, overlapping strokes. Scraping the deck smooths it and evens out any offset planking seams. It will look BETTER than sanded. Use sanding sticks to get close to the bulwarks and in corners and always sand along the grain (fore-aft). After that, finish the deck with oil or varnish and you're good.

Use this: $12 on Amazon.com
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Not very funny. I think the chamfer worked. I haven't decided on the gun ports yet. I'll probably do it myself. The kit is quite complex. A lot is unclear. I compared the plans with galleon plans from the internet. The Chinese made the kit, as I wrote above, "Made from scratch." We'll give it a try!!!

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Real wales and planks are scarf jointed anyway, so the seam on your model is actually accurate. I see that the joint on your model is in the very worst place, where the plank is making a sharp curve. Typically you want the plank at the curve of the bow to be a solid piece with no joints because of the difficulty of maintaining the proper curve, with no hard bend or a flat spot.
 
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