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Model Airways Sopwith Camel 1/16 scale [COMPLETED BUILD]

Dean62 said:
This may be too late, however I now have a resin printer. I have to find those CAD files I created so I can export STL files to use in my slicer software. Then I can actually print some of these for those who may be interested. I will give an update on the status.
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Great, in going to Start mine after finishing the Jalouse
 
Dean62 said:
Thank you Daniel. I used to build and fly wood remote control airplanes. So I have profiled many leading and trailing edges. ;)
I set the wings on my work table, and put sandpaper on a block, but do not let the sandpaper go to the edge of the block. That way I can keep the edge of the block on the work table surface as I sand across the edge of the wing, all the time maintaining the same angle. Then I can change the angle as required to get the final geometry. This way the work surface controls the height of the block and keeps it parallel to the wings top to bottom, and the wings themselves keep the block parallel side to side. Then there is only one variable left, and that's the angle of the block. If you keep the angle consistent, using the wings and work table surface as guides, you will have a very consistent leading or trailing edge. ;)
Then I hand sand the leading edge corner by wrapping the sand paper around the edge and sliding the length of the wing.
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Terrific explanation!
 
Stevedownunder said:
Hi Dean,
Just wondering how smelly is the process and does the cleaning and curing station help.
Cheers,
Stephen.
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It’s not bad at all, but I am using water based resin, so no alcohol required to clean them, just water. The cleaning station helps remove the residual resin. And the curing station just uses UV light to cure them. Usually 5 minutes is sufficient. It rotates the part while exposing them to the UV lights.
I usually open a window after the printing is done and run a fan for about 10 minutes to pull all the fumes out of the room and ensure no fumes remain. You really can’t smell it until you open the lid to remove the part, at which point I have the fan running. They make enclosures with a vent hose and a carbon filter to remove any fumes. I will probably invest in one of those.
 
The resin should make for an accurate build without all the deformation I found on the last Aero Expo kit. It.seem most.of the problem is when they extract from the molds.
 
Dean62 said:
It’s not bad at all, but I am using water based resin, so no alcohol required to clean them, just water. The cleaning station helps remove the residual resin. And the curing station just uses UV light to cure them. Usually 5 minutes is sufficient. It rotates the part while exposing them to the UV lights.
I usually open a window after the printing is done and run a fan for about 10 minutes to pull all the fumes out of the room and ensure no fumes remain. You really can’t smell it until you open the lid to remove the part, at which point I have the fan running. They make enclosures with a vent hose and a carbon filter to remove any fumes. I will probably invest in one of those.
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Thanks for your response Dean,
It sounds like the fumes from water based resin are not as bad as earlier resins.
Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Ted Robinson said:
The resin should make for an accurate build without all the deformation I found on the last Aero Expo kit. It.seem most.of the problem is when they extract from the molds.
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I wish all the metal parts were resin, the detail is better, and it would be lighter. I only printed parts that were not included in the kit, because I thought it made it more recognizable as a Camel with the cowling, gun covers and cockpit canopy.
 
Stevedownunder said:
Thanks for your response Dean,
It sounds like the fumes from water based resin are not as bad as earlier resins.
Cheers,
Stephen.
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The fumes from the alcohol are worse than the resin! Cleaning with water is the way to go. And you can pour it through a paper filter to remove any residual resin and then toss the water. Much better all the way around. ;)
 
Dean62 said:
The fumes from the alcohol are worse than the resin! Cleaning with water is the way to go. And you can pour it through a paper filter to remove any residual resin and then toss the water. Much better all the way around. ;)
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The resin never trips my air monitor. But the IPA wash does. I keep the wash tub covered during rinses. And you could always install a vented enclosure20240106_075019.jpg
 
Dean62 said:
Those enclosures are nice, but do take up a lot more space unfortunately. But I’m still leaning towards getting one. ;)
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Amazon carries many different models so look them over carefully, you can find a size you can live with. Its important that sunlight cannot affect your printer. And depending on your printer, have enough room to remove the cover. And venting with a fan might be a consideration. (I no longer even run the vent fan.)
 
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