Great start Sasha. Is the whole kit in translated Russian (ie plans, instruction book etc) or is it a mix of languages?
PeterG
PeterG
Model VICTORY by Deagostini, scale 1/84
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Hi Jbradford
If you are lucky, you can find the same with Artesania latina occasionally on the net
Marco
If you are lucky, you can find the same with Artesania latina occasionally on the net
Marco
Sasha, this is quite a project you’ve taken on and a beautiful ship. I’ll be following you.
Vic
Vic
Peter, these are Deagostini's magazines. In our country, they are sold in Russian. There are no complete plans, each magazine has a separate build stage. I have an anatomy based on this model, so I peep into it.
Hello. Work continues. I bought linden boards. It turned out to be not an easy task to find them. Bypassed the entire building materials market. Found only in one store that sells wood for decorating a bath. He began to fill in the spaces.
The hull became noticeably heavier and the frames of the frames could not stand it. One broke off. I came up with such a simple design. I cut off two pieces of plywood and screwed them to the bow and stern frames. Then I will delete them. Now the body does not reach the table and you can fill the spacing further.
The hull became noticeably heavier and the frames of the frames could not stand it. One broke off. I came up with such a simple design. I cut off two pieces of plywood and screwed them to the bow and stern frames. Then I will delete them. Now the body does not reach the table and you can fill the spacing further.
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Continued filling in the spans. Things are not moving very quickly, because all the spacing is of different width and you have to measure each distance and cut the bars of the required width.
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Good job
Marco
Marco
finally, somebody agrees with me. It has nothing to do with Re.inforce the Hul. In this case, I am on the meaning, that this can/could be made much easier-I will show another method with a look of a POG build from outside.This can only be used w2hen the distance between bulkheads on the fakse Keel are the sameThat's the way to plank a plank on Bulkhead model!
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Do you suggest cutting a bunch of additional frames instead of filling in the spacing? Not the best option with a body length of about 1 meter. In addition, it is necessary to additionally select the shape of the new frames. And also to fill up the keel frame with new slots, when it does not differ in its rigidity anyway with its length. Agree, your method is more laborious and costly.
I think Heinrich meant something else. Method not suggested by you.
Or did you mean filling with small bars instead of large ones like mine? This method is not convenient in this case. The purpose of filling the spacing with linden bars is to correctly draw the contours of the hull before sheathing. In the future, there will be no failures in the cladding, and as a result, there will be no need to use a putty. The result is a cast body that is convenient to work with. Yes, it will be a little heavier, but this is not such a big disadvantage compared to the correct body contours.
Lot of work Sasha, indeed, but you'll end up with lovely, fair, solid hull.
Hello. Continuation of the construction of VICTORI. Installed deck beams. Some of them are thin, so I made stops under them, like pillers. They will not be visible, so I imitated the pillers with bars. This is to keep the deck from sagging in the middle.
I continued to fill in the spaces between decks and frames. In the photo, my little plane, with which I take off the excess on the body.
that's going to be a lot of work shaving all that balsa down, Sasha! What will you use? A knife? Dremel?
Vic, hello. The one in the last photo is a plane. Then sandpaper and a lot of bad words
WELL DONE.
Thanks