I don't think it is a balsa wood, Vic. It is known as Lipa (Russki) and kind of basswood here. Am I correct, Shass @Alexander74?
with such a small plane, to finish the job, I don't think bad words (cursing) from one language will be enoughVic, hello. The one in the last photo is a plane. Then sandpaper and a lot of bad words
Dima, I have no other plane. So I'll work with that.I don't think it is a balsa wood, Vic. It is known as Lipa (Russki) and kind of basswood here. Am I correct, Shass @Alexander74?
with such a small plane, to finish the job, I don't think bad words (cursing) from one language will be enough
Heinrich, thank you. It will definitely pay off, I went through this earlier with other models. When you draw out the lines of the hull, as I do, then you do not need to use a lot of putty before plating.
You can start with half round\flat chisels removing the bulk wood, then you use your plane to shape. I am the old school, though.
Yes, Dima. This is a good idea. But I am still a beginner ship modeler (6 years old) and have not acquired enough good tools. I dream of a good instrument. I buy, of course, sometimes, but I can't apply for everything at once. I am content with what I have.You can start with half round\flat chisels removing the bulk wood, then you use your plane to shape. I am the old school, though.
i tried to tell you about a much easier method-measuring the distance between bulkhead un a light weight wood. draw the bulkheads curve, and then with a saw shape it. will have made one for each empty bulkhead. insert and glue
We'll have to redo it.
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Thanks, Paul. I chose this method for myself (filling the spacing with linden) 4 models back. In Russia, many modelers use it. They are filled with either linden tree (it is cheaper, but heavier) or balsa (it is easier, but more expensive). The filling gives a good result of preparing the hull before sheathing. If everything is properly sanded, then no putty is needed. Yes, this method adds extra work, but I like the result. The body becomes monolithic, and when sheathing it is possible to insert the rail holders at any place, and not in the rib of the frame. In general, I tried to explain why I am doing this.Sasha, this looks really great. You are constructing a very sturdy base that will come in handy when it comes to planking. I had to be so careful during this phase of my build... I wish I had known enough to add blocks between the bulkheads.
Plus, with all those filler pieces, she will have no problem floating
You explained it elegantly, Sasha, with a hint of your wonderful Russian accent. I’m afraid my admiral would make me do the trimming and sanding outside on the patio and use the leaf blower to send the sawdust into the backyard.
Vic, sawdust can be useful on the farm. For example, insulate the roots of some plants for the winter.
We only have two days of winter in this part of Texas most years. They used to use it in dance halls and bars here to help slide easier on the dance floor and to soak up spilled beer and tobacco juice (spit).Vic, sawdust can be useful on the farm. For example, insulate the roots of some plants for the winter.
