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My FIRST build: Krick Borkum with MSM 3" Clyde Steam Plant [COMPLETED BUILD]

I received my electronics today but must have clicked the wrong button for my servos. The ones shipped (3) are only 55 degree turn. Am I right in thinking I need more than that (90 -180 degree) to control a rudder, a throttle system for steam plant -(MSM design) and a steam whistle. Totally out of my element. Someone once said a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. I think I am there now. What do I need? It is for my Borkum. Neptune John - any advice?IMG_20200428_095835.jpg
 
Hmm' haven't looked at my RC kit yet, only real advice is measure your batt output with Multi meter first as over voltage will blow speed controller.
The controller will pass on correct voltage to servos motors etc, but ESC requires at or under voltage. 55 / 2 degree for rudder is more than sufficient. A 15 degree is a full turn and will cause significant tilt .
 
Thanks. Waiting for my steam plant to install and place the servos etc in relevant places and check distance.
The receiver, battery pack and servo all work fine. 6.0- 7.4 volt range
 
May Day - Did some staining/varnish of the stern. Have the electronics but need the steam plant (still somewhere between Melbourne AUS and Canada) to adjust proper placement. Plan to paint the Hull this weekend (Green/Red). Have an order in for small bits — lamp/bell, Navigator and Fireman, rope, and flag polls. Like what Neptune did making his own but the figurines came with the little extras. Still in lock-down here, hoping June will be my launch. Be safe.May 1 2020.jpg
 
Hi Morfa,

You are doing a great job on your first build.

In respect to servos and angles it is not only the servo which controls the angle of the controlled item, it is also the ratio between the length of the arm on the servo and the controlled point.
Normally a servo arm has 3 to 4 holes in them, if you place your rod in the inner servo arm hole the way of the rod is small. If you place the control rod in the outer hole the travelled way of the rod is long.
At the receiving end, the controlled item, you have an equal arm with holes were you receive the travel of the rod. If you place the rod here in the same hole the angle of rotation will be the same as from the servo. If you place the rod in a hole further from the rotation axis the angle of rotation will be smaller, and if you place it in a hole closer to the rotation axis the angle of rotation will be bigger.
In this way you can control the maximum angle of rotation, allthough you have a specific maximum angle on the servo.
Hope it helps.
 
Big help. I am having a problem finding the sweet spot for the rudder. Your explanation is going to help. I thought I had the wrong servo - 55 degrees but fiddling here and there it might work. Will need reread your ideas, I get more movement on starboard than port I think. Thanks, really learning more about the right tools, and techniques than anything else. I keep saying my next boat is really going to look great...

IMG_20200501_164928.jpg
 
morfa said:
Big help. I am having a problem finding the sweet spot for the rudder. Your explanation is going to help. I thought I had the wrong servo - 55 degrees but fiddling here and there it might work. Will need reread your ideas, I get more movement on starboard than port I think. Thanks, really learning more about the right tools, and techniques than anything else. I keep saying my next boat is really going to look great...

View attachment 147852
Click to expand...
On rest position of your servo both arms have to stand at a 90 deg angle, this means you have to shorten your rod to move your rudder arm into the same position as your servo arm is. If you do that the movement to ps and sb will be the same.
 
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So, need advice re: painting. I have done one coat of the green and want to do one more then paint the "waterline" red and finish with a clear coat. The Rustoleum says wait 48 hours after to let fully dry each coat. Can I or do I do the second coat green now and wait 48 hours, then do the bottom red, wait 48 hours, then do the final clear coat or can I do the clear coat sooner? Thanks, D.
 
It depends largely on how good your base coat paint was but I would wait the 48 hours. Paint has the nasty habit of feeling completely dry to the touch, while it is still in the process of hardening out. Things like ambient temperature and humidity obviously all play a role.
 
G'day morfa, she is coming along great, the paint work is very nice, just make really sure the green is really dry before attaching the masking tape for the red, after my red had dried I just used a thin black tape for the boot topping,


394.jpg
you can use a thicker tape if you want, but the thinner one is a lot easier to go round the curves,

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best regards John,
 
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