@TheDonMI Your Ulises posts are so helpful but I'm a bit confused on the fibreglass weight for the hull. In your build log you mention 2.3oz fiberglass cloth for the hull and the photos on that log and this post show it is very thin. I bought some 2 ounce cloth here in the UK and it is about 1.1mm in thickness, weighs about 600gm per sq m., has little flexibility and is totally opaque. So I've obviously got completely the wrong thickness. Is there any more information you can post on what I should be ordering and is it a weave or a matting. Many thanksI suppose everyone has their own take on fiberglassing. Here is mine.
1.Right out of the bottles epoxy resin is too thick. So I dilute it about 6:1 with ethanol or xylene. I use West System epoxy (available at a local marine store), but I would also use their pumps to get the right proportion of resin and hardener. I have also used Zap Z-Poxy that I bought online, which is mixed 1:1 resin and hardener. Make sure the resin-hardener-ethanol/xylene are well mixed. You should have plenty of time to work with the epoxy before it sets up.
2. Drape the fiberglass cloth over the hull, making sure there is plenty of overhang. Then brush the mixed resin over the cloth, making sure that the cloth is thoroughly soaked and free of wrinkles. This step may take a while. But avoid a thick coat of resin because it will run like crazy. This is the tricky part. You can treat a half inch or so of the overhang with resin, which makes it easy to trim later. You can patch in cloth/resin in difficult spots, because after trimming, sanding, and additional coats of resin the seams will disappear. I use a cheap throwaway brush or an old one I can part with.
3. When the resin is well set after a day trim the overhang with a heavy scissors and coarse grit sandpaper.The sandpaper cuts through the hardened resin very nicely. Then lightly wet sand the hull. Be sure you don't sand through the cloth! Make sure any seams and runs are sanded down. In Ulises I installed the keel after this step.
4. Apply additional coats of resin to get a smooth surface. I have used two additional coats or until the weave of the cloth disappers. l learned the hard way to wait about 15 minutes or so after the hull is completely treated (just before the resin begins to harden) to brush out the whole hull again to eliminate pockmarks and runs, which inevitably begin to form.
5. Wet sand between coats with 220 grit to get a smooth surface, again avoiding sanding through the underlying cloth.
6. IF everything goes well you should end with a nice, smooth waterproof hull that is ready for priming and painting. That "IF" is a big one! It took me several iterations of fiberglassing before I developed a technique that I was satisfied with.
GOOD LUCK!
The hull after fiberglass cloth has been treated with resin and set. Note the overhang that was cut off and trimmed with sandpaper.The keel was attached with epoxy adhesive after this step. The brown streaks are wood filler applied before fiberglassing.
View attachment 290801
Rob--In my notes for the Ulises build I have recorded 2.3 oz (78 g) cloth. But I just looked in the drawer where I keep the cloth and I also have a package of 3/4 oz (21 g) cloth. Both are weave and both have been used. So I may have been mistaken in reporting 2.3 oz. Ulises is a relatively slow boat on the water compared to some of the other boats I have made, therefore the 3/4 oz should be fine. Sorry for the confusion.
Don
Don
I have just purchased this model as a project through the winter months. Not having built a model, smaller scale than this, for well over fifty years the information in your log will be very helpful when I get round to building it. Happy sailing.
Davie
Good sailing Davie. The Ulises is a great model and you will enjoy building it!
Hallo Davie,
sending a warm welcome here on board of our forum -> so I hope to see a building log of your tugboat.....
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2022
- Messages
- 5
- Points
- 3
I'm currently starting with the Vic Smeed Guardsman, a 1930`s customs boat but thinking of buying myself the Ulises for xmas
The OcCre Ulises kit is well put together and the instructions (written in 5 languages and pictorial) are excellent. If you get through the planking of the hull stage, the rest will be relatively easy. If you are a moderately experienced builder you should have little difficulty.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2022
- Messages
- 5
- Points
- 3
I was hoping to read your build thread ( pdf ) but cannot download it
If you are willing to post your email address I can send you the pdf. If not we can figure out another way.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2022
- Messages
- 5
- Points
- 3
Hi, firstly, smashing looking boat. Really nice job.
so secondly, I’m looming at this same model as my first build.I’m an engineer and having built a working 2” scale coal fire traction engine and various model aircraft in my time, I’ve decided on a boat for my next “mission” and this model is exactly the one I’ve been looking at.
Having never built one before I’ve obviously a thousand questions relating to ballast, positioning of servo’s etc and weight centre criticality.. but, would you recommend this as a first build? Bear in mind that I’m no rush to complete, much rather take it easy and get everything done right.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated..
Thanks
Al’
Ulysses is my second build and, like you, I'm an (ex engineer). With your knowledge of steam models, I doubt whether you'll have any difficulty with servo and motor placements. The instructions are pretty clear and the only difficulty I had was getting the linkage from the servo past some bulkheads and connected to the rudder. (I put some posts up on this forum at the time with photos of what worked for me.) Just had to buy a series of connectors, prototyped the links with bonsai wire - nice and soft 
Once the prototype worked I used the bonsia wire links as the template for the final stainless steel links. It all works - on dry land at least
I did a better job of planking Ulysses than my first model and fibreglassing was new to me. Luckily Ulysses was a very forgiving model as I soon realised that any minor error on filling and smoothing showed up big time once I started to paint the hull. So I was able to refill and repaint to a standard I'm now happier with. When I start my third model, I'll spend even more time getting the finish of all the timber construction better before fibreglassing and painting.
TheDonMi was very supportive in my build - I'll pick it up again once winter sets in and move to the superstructure construction and painting when I hope to be proficient enough to airbrush part of it
Hope this helps.
Once the prototype worked I used the bonsia wire links as the template for the final stainless steel links. It all works - on dry land at least I did a better job of planking Ulysses than my first model and fibreglassing was new to me. Luckily Ulysses was a very forgiving model as I soon realised that any minor error on filling and smoothing showed up big time once I started to paint the hull. So I was able to refill and repaint to a standard I'm now happier with. When I start my third model, I'll spend even more time getting the finish of all the timber construction better before fibreglassing and painting.
TheDonMi was very supportive in my build - I'll pick it up again once winter sets in and move to the superstructure construction and painting when I hope to be proficient enough to airbrush part of it
Hope this helps.
Hiya rob, I'm thinking I may be messaging you on one or two occassions then by the sounds of things. Great feedback though and very helpful.Ulysses is my second build and, like you, I'm an (ex engineer). With your knowledge of steam models, I doubt whether you'll have any difficulty with servo and motor placements. The instructions are pretty clear and the only difficulty I had was getting the linkage from the servo past some bulkheads and connected to the rudder. (I put some posts up on this forum at the time with photos of what worked for me.) Just had to buy a series of connectors, prototyped the links with bonsai wire - nice and soft
I did a better job of planking Ulysses than my first model and fibreglassing was new to me. Luckily Ulysses was a very forgiving model as I soon realised that any minor error on filling and smoothing showed up big time once I started to paint the hull. So I was able to refill and repaint to a standard I'm now happier with. When I start my third model, I'll spend even more time getting the finish of all the timber construction better before fibreglassing and painting.
TheDonMi was very supportive in my build - I'll pick it up again once winter sets in and move to the superstructure construction and painting when I hope to be proficient enough to airbrush part of it
Hope this helps.
Many thanks
Al'
Hello Don, your build report is very useful to me. I was given this model as a Christmas present and it will be my first wooden model. I have not started it yet but have been spending a few days researching techniques. The planking of the hull looks daunting to me and full of potential pitfalls. Did you use a planking fan method to compute the required tapering of each plank?
Regards Paul
Regards Paul
Hi Paul,
Quite a few people who are the Occre builders' Facebook Page (Occremania) have also built the Ulisses. You might want to check in there to get some advice.
Log into Facebook
Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.
www.facebook.com
Hiya Paul,
Welcome to worrying… I too am building this boat.. I’ve just finished gluing up tue dividers etc and now ready for sanding before planking. Honestly, I’m bloody dreading it but, how much can ya cock up a strip of wood? , and let’s be fair here, if ya do bugger any of it up, strip it off again, get some more planking and try try again… there is a LOT of useful info on here though regards to the complete build… it’ll be worth your time reading through some of it… oh and spend some time with a pencil numbering up all the components using the drawings at the back for number references.. I forgot that bit and wondered why it took bloody hours to assemble such a small section… then thought ah haaaa I’ll number ‘em