Oseberg - Ver. 3 - Pavel Nikitin - 1:25

[RussF]

Thank you everyone for your well wishes. We had a wonderful day on the campus of Cornell University. Let me tell you, San Francisco has nothing on the hills around Cornell! Whew!

After a sudden rush of blood to the head I just ordered the book by Vibeke Bischoff; hope I'm not disappointed.

Hopefully they still have some in stock and you won't have to wait almost 4 months like Steve and I did. It's a fascinating read, even if you aren't building the model.

 

[pugwash]

Thank you everyone for your well wishes. We had a wonderful day on the campus of Cornell University. Let me tell you, San Francisco has nothing on the hills around Cornell! Whew!



Hopefully they still have some in stock and you won't have to wait almost 4 months like Steve and I did. It's a fascinating read, even if you aren't building the model.

I've been promised delivery 16 - 23 July

The Oseberg Ship - 9788785180773 | eBay UK

ISBN-13: 9788785180773, 978-8785180773. In 2012, a new full'scale reconstruction, Saga Oseberg, was built based on the new reconstruction.

www.ebay.co.uk

The Oslow Viking Museum displays a 1:10 scale model of the 'Replica', which was made as part of the construction project research. It is credited ti Vibeke Bischoff.
A few images of the model can be found on the web.

 

[oldflyer]

Russ,
Went back through your log. Excellent work - Will visit often again when the pending1/35th example arrives.
I'm enjoying and learning just following along....

Regards,

 

[RussF]

Russ,
Went back through your log. Excellent work - Will visit often again when the pending1/35th example arrives.
I'm enjoying and learning just following along....

Regards,

Welcome aboard John. I haven't seen an example of Pavel's smaller kit, it will be interesting to see. I hope you will do a log.

 

[oldflyer]

Welcome aboard John. I haven't seen an example of Pavel's smaller kit, it will be interesting to see. I hope you will do a log.

Russ,
Yes, I plan on doing a log. I also hope to "bash" (though it will be hard to add extra details to the best Viking ship kit available). I plan on leaving open several deck panels for inside views.

The real issue, for me, will be how to also attach the many hundreds of plank cleats in proper "ruff" squarish looking shapes, and in proper looking scale that will also needed to be seen on the inside of hull planks --- Hmmm?

Couple of images -- not Oseberg but, Gokstad

 

[RussF]

Russ,
Yes, I plan on doing a log. I also hope to "bash" (though it will be hard to add extra details to the best Viking ship kit available). I plan on leaving open several deck panels for inside views.

The real issue, for me, will be how to also attach the many hundreds of plank cleats in proper "ruff" squarish looking shapes, and in proper looking scale that will also needed to be seen on the inside of hull planks --- Hmmm?

Couple of images -- not Oseberg but, Gokstad
View attachment 531851View attachment 531852

I thought about leaving some deck boards loose as well, but by that time it was too late. By that I mean that the frames and bitis in the kit only loosely, very loosely, resemble those of the actual ship, and I didn't want to go so far as to rip them out in order to make them to scale. I assume the smaller version will also have the longitudinal stringers that add rigidity to the frame prior to planking, so you will have to deal with that because they are not present in the full scale ship.

As for the cleats (I assume you are talking about the rivets), I've given that some thought as well, but haven't come to a final decision. Only those where the rove is on the outside do they have a square or rhombic shape to them. Of course, if your interior will be visible, that adds more of those to your build. I had considered purchasing nails from Drydock and filing the heads where required, but the quantity required would push the cost pretty high. I have other ideas, but will reveal them only when they work to my satisfaction.

 

[oldflyer]

I thought about leaving some deck boards loose as well, but by that time it was too late. By that I mean that the frames and bitis in the kit only loosely, very loosely, resemble those of the actual ship, and I didn't want to go so far as to rip them out in order to make them to scale. I assume the smaller version will also have the longitudinal stringers that add rigidity to the frame prior to planking, so you will have to deal with that because they are not present in the full scale ship.

As for the cleats (I assume you are talking about the rivets), I've given that some thought as well, but haven't come to a final decision. Only those where the rove is on the outside do they have a square or rhombic shape to them. Of course, if your interior will be visible, that adds more of those to your build. I had considered purchasing nails from Drydock and filing the heads where required, but the quantity required would push the cost pretty high. I have other ideas, but will reveal them only when they work to my satisfaction.

Russ,
thanks for your detailed response - How the 1/35th structurally looks TBD? - I would also assume that it will reflect his larger example. Having looked at
many 1/1 images, as well as the Pavel's kit I knew that I would need to do some scratch building for areas of open deck views.

Yes, cutting to shape tiny nails are my thoughts as well - But as you mentioned - some negatives attached to that idea. - looking forward to your solutions!

I did visit some HO train retail sites - they have several items that would work well for the rivets IMO - could be a solution. Note image from my Vasa - I used
HO railroad tie cleats that come in two sizes as well as miniature nails.

Regards,

 

[RussF]

Russ,
thanks for your detailed response - How the 1/35th structurally looks TBD? - I would also assume that it will reflect his larger example. Having looked at
many 1/1 images, as well as the Pavel's kit I knew that I would need to do some scratch building for areas of open deck views.

Yes, cutting to shape tiny nails are my thoughts as well - But as you mentioned - some negatives attached to that idea. - looking forward to your solutions!

I did visit some HO train retail sites - they have several items that would work well for the rivets IMO - could be a solution. Note image from my Vasa - I used
HO railroad tie cleats that come in two sizes as well as miniature nails.

Regards,

View attachment 532190View attachment 532191

That's an interesting use of those rail spikes, John. It looks good on your Vasa.

The rivet heads on the actual ship are 20-25 mm in diam. The roves are also about 25mm sq. That translates to 1mm in my scale and 0.78mm on the 1:32 version. Looking a photos from the museum, you can see that the heads are very nearly if not totally flush with the surface of the plank. Any "scale" nail head we try to use that stands proud of the surface at all will probably be too much. I don't want to exaggerate the heads, just indicate them. The roves were slightly prouder, but not by much.

Olha shows a technique where she drills holes and fills them with a blackened wood putty. Certainly quick and it allows you to sand everything flush without losing the color of the filler, but I don't like the idea of the putty getting pressed into the surrounding wood grain and having to sand more than I want to in order to remove it.

Certainly, I could cut small segments of 1mm brass wire, blacken it and press it into the holes, but you wouldn't be able to sand at all afterwards for fear of removing the blackening.

So, I'll go ahead and share the idea I have, but keep in mind, it has not been tested at all (I don't even have the equipment yet), and I cannot vouch for any results until I have tried it.

My thought was to drill all the necessary holes first. T represent the square roves, I would file the tip of a piece of wire or the back end of an old drill bit into a tapered point with a square (or slightly rhombic) cross section. After drilling the hole, I would just push the tip of this tool into the hole, giving the hole a square shape. It is small enough, that theoretically, it should work well. Finally, using a 3D Printing Pen (that extrudes molten plastic from the tip), I would press the tip over the hole and inject a small dab of plastic into the hole. Once cooled (about 5 seconds), I should be able to easily sand it flush with the strakes.

That's my thought - I don't know if it will work. If anyone has a 3D pen and would like to try it, I would be most interested.