Pinnace Papegojan 1627 - 1/48 [COMPLETED BUILD]

Hi @Maarten

As I've mentioned before I'm using polyester threads and to create on them tar imitation sometimes might be challenging. So it's necessary to have proper "mixture" which won't rub it off and will "stain" the rope properly.

My solution: bitumen

So far I'm happy with liquid bitumen from Idea Decoupage by Maimeri.
I'm pretty sure any other will work.

Process is quite messy...
I'm using jar with just a little of bitumen. Dumping rope inside the jar and using brush I'm dabbing bitumen all over the rope. Not too much because at the end you will wipe it off anyway.
When still "wet" I'm wiping the excess.
After couple hours when bitumen is dry using white spirit (mineral spirit) I'm wiping ropes again until happy with result.
In term of white spirit... the cheapest as possible.. fancy expensive from art shops doesn't make sense... I'm getting my from hardware store.

For standing rigging I'm not diluting bitumen. For running yes... to quite thin mixture.

Bitumen works great too with cotton as well.
However, for cotton ropes I'm using bit different mixture based on bees wax.

I'm finding more advantages in polyester threads rather than cotton.
Polyester is more flexible and doesn't get affected by seasons and humid or dry air. Cotton likes to hang loosely when air is humid.
However, polyester has also some disadvantages... and I think the biggest is that some of the threads might have quite high electrostatic force (like some of the clothes) which will magnetize the dust.
So... to defeat this we need to apply some anti-electrostatic solution :)
...and for this with help comes shellac ;)
Shellac is natural solid organic low-fusible electro-isolator... ;)

Similar characteristics you can find in: carnauba wax, paraffin, colophony (rosin)


Cheers,
Matt
 
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Hi Matt, do you use the shellac after the rigging. When everything is in place?
Danish oil also has the adventure to anti-dust on wood. You treed that?
Yeah a lot of questions, but I'm very impressed about your rigging quality.
I will use serafill to make my own rope. Polyester too.
Thanks.
 
Hi @Steef66

I'm dissolving shellac in isopropyl alcohol to quite thin mixture and dipping ropes in it.

I'm not quite sure danish oil will work on polyester.
I remember that some time ago I was experimenting with PTFE dry lube... but it has to be super thin layer. It was ok.
There is so many options... best is just to do experiments.

I'm using also Serafil by Amann. Mainly 120/2 which is called polyester silk thread. Super thin and very durable.
However, for 120/2 I'm not applying any shellac, only bitumen. It's not "attracting" any dust.

Like I said... the best is to do some experiments :)

Cheers,
Matt
 
Love you Bitumen colour ropes. Will definately start some experiments. Thx for the detailed explanations.
I have worked with real Stockholmer tar on poly rope but is more difficult to work with. Result however is also quite good.
 
Pine tar (Stockholm tar) is also an option.
I've used to add pine tar to my bees wax mixture for cotton ropes.
...but I've switch completely to bitumen.
I've found this product to be really friendly to use ;)


Cheers,
Matt
 
I think I will keep also some minor amount of stockholmer tar in my ropes, only just for the smell of it :cool:

Couldn't get the full Judea bitumen here locally so I went for Charbonell Etsching Grounding. This is mainly Judea Bitumen with some disolvants and waxes to give is a dry surface.
Looking forward to test it.
Thx again.
 
Hallo Matt - I agree with Maarten about the rigging - great appearance and color.
But your rope are only the dott on the "i" -> I am in love with your complete work - looking very close to the photos - I can not find anything, which could be done better - Very very good work
Hope to see much more often some updates with details of your model (and work) :cool:
 
Thank you @Uwek for nice comment.
As much I will have opportunity to continue working on my model I'll post some updates :)

Currently I'm involved in unequal fight with shrouds and lanyards ROTF
Maybe it's not perfect... but I'm doing my best to do it properly.
At the moment I have completed mizzen mast and I'm in the middle of main mast.

Obviously lanyards are loose at that stage. Final adjustments will be done when all shrouds and stays will be in place.

For equal distance between deadeyes I'm using this happy jig :p
Rope of main mast lanyards 0,4mm

5DM34269.JPG

Mizzen mast "ready" however excess of the ropes still not circumcised to final length ROTFROTF
Rope of mizzen mast lanyards 0,25mm

5DM34275.JPG

Cheers,
Matt
 
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Hi All,

Not much inspiration today... so just a small update ;)

So far mizzen and main mast are done with shrouds and lanyards.
Just one more to go... foremast.

Few quick photos.

Single shroud and my way of making eye.
I'm cutting end of served rope at angle and forming an eye.
One drop of CA to keep this in desire shape and hand made serving over the glue point.

5DM34283.JPG

5DM34305.JPG

Main mast head with laid sequence of tackles and shrouds.

5DM34308.JPG

...and quick shoot on channel with lanyards.

5DM34317.JPG

Cheers,
Matt
 
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Thank you @Mash for your kind "word"! Beer

Hi All,

I have some update on my build.
Rigging situation is slowly progressing ;)

Shrouds are done. Obviously ratlines are still missing, but they will be rigged when all standing rigging will be done and only after final tension adjustments.
Next step was to place my hands on stays.
First... mizzen mast stay, then main mast and fore mast.

You might notice one "shortcut" on the stays.
Mouse... it's not 100% accurate. I was planing to do vertical threading and horizontal daring to achieve well known basket weave covering of the mouse, however I was kind of unhappy with the result and look. Especially on mizzen where mouse is quite small (also on the main topmast and fore topmast stays) . Main mast and fore mast stays are noticeably thicker and mouses are bigger so it was easier to achieve desire covering.
...but then I've ended up with two different covering on the mouses. I've decided to match the look of bigger mouses to smaller.
That is why I've done just simple serving on the mouses using ~0,18mm rope.
Compromise, which I'm not proud of Cautious
...but in the end looks ok... I guess ROTF

5DM34343.JPG

5DM34328.JPG
5DM34331.JPG
5DM34335.JPG
5DM34339.JPG
5DM34340.JPG
5DM34342.JPG


Also due to the thickness of mainmast and foremast stays it was necessary to do worming on them to fill the groves for serving... otherwise surface of served rope become very uneven.

5DM34324.JPG

For smaller diameter ropes I'm serving rope without worming.

5DM34320.JPG

Cheers,
Matt
 
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Great idea to fill the gaps of the thread. I had this problem too, but left it that way.
 
Hi @Steef66
That's true... worming can be omitted and most of the people won't even realize that it's not there :p
However, I'm using really thin thread for serving and it "sinks" to the groves without worming because I've set quite high tension on the spool to achieve really tight serving.
For a moment I was even considering to do parceling on that stays... but then I said to myself it's just unnecessary complication for this scale ;)
 
There is a lot you can't see on that scale, but I like it when things look realistic on a small scale. Like diorama's
I love your serving tool. Selfmade?
 
Thank you @Bryian for nice comment.

@Steef66 true... but sometimes those small details become big struggle, which boils the blood when you want to make them ROTF

My serving tool was made by one of my colleague, he made for me ropewalk as well.
He actually made few ropewalks and serving tools for some other colleagues.
 
Hello, Matti. Does your colleague accept orders? There might be members interesting in the purchase.
 
Hi @Jimsky,

Most likely Roman will be happy to recive some orders
If someone is interested please drop him a message:

modelarz66@gmail.com

His small website:

He's making ropewalks, serving tool, bending tool for PE parts, thickness sander (drum sander)

If someone needs some help or assistance fell free to write.

Cheers,
Matt
 

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