OOPS! I goofed!
See Kolobok's post #24 below. There is a variation of the plain cup burr style I originally referenced in this post which is called a "twin cut cup burr" which, with a flat cutting edge around the very end of the burr, cuts a flat rim around the half ball formed by the cup, producing a faux "peened shank and rove" as illustrated in Serikoff's posts explaining his method for making very realistic scale headed rivets and roves on clinker planks. If you want a faux "peened shank and rove," like Serikoff describes, get the "double cut cup burr" as Kolobok identified!
At the risk of sending Serikoff back to yank out some 1,800 rivets again as he admirably did before, I will note in passing for those who may be inclined to represent rivets on their models that it is important to verify the direction in which rivets are placed on your particular model. Copper rivets are made from flat-headed copper cut nails over the protruding points of which a rove is set. The protruding point and shank are then cut off a bit proud and this is then peened over the rove to set the rivet. It's customary in setting planking rivets in small boat lapstrake construction to drive the nails inboard, so that the heads of the nails end up on the outboard face of the plank, while the nail shank ends peened over the roves are on the inboard side of the planking. There may be a variation in this customary practice for reasons of which I'm unaware in the case of Alert and other various vessels.
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